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Mini Tour
Highway of Legends Alive with Loreby Margo Ellis
Aptly named, the Highway of Legends in south-central Colorado abounds with history, culture, folklore and unusual volcanically-formed landmarks—making this AAA Mini Tour a sheer delight for travelers. The 82-mile scenic byway curves through the expansive San Isabel National Forest, over Cucharas Pass and through a string of small communities whose inhabitants give this region even more character. The paved, two-lane highway also provides a relaxing respite, as this route seems to be one of Colorado's lesser-known treasures. The myriad legends along the byway are too plentiful to detail, but a brief glimpse into this area's rich history and landscape will entice you to venture out and explore further.
Begin the tour in Walsenburg, at the junction of Interstate 25 and US 160. This town began as the Spanish village La Plaza de Los Leones, and now bears the name of a German merchant, Fred Walsen, who set up shop during the 1870s to serve local miners. With this year's drought hitting Walsenburg exceptionally hard, residents followed mandatory restrictions allowing no outdoor watering of any kind—unfortunately, it shows in the town's dry landscape.
Continue west on US 160 about 11 miles to the turnoff for State Road (SR) 12, heading south toward La Veta. The environs at the beginning of the byway are characterized by rolling plains through the Cuchara Valley and striking views of the twin Spanish Peaks, known to Native Americans as Huajotolla ("breasts of the earth") for their spiritual mystique and believed source of hidden treasure. One legend states that the Aztecs found a vein of pure gold on the Spanish Peaks and attempted to extract it, hoping to adorn the shrines of Huitzilopochtli in Mexico with the newfound gold. But mountain gods became jealous of the Aztec ruler's wealth and placed fire-spitting demons atop the peaks to keep mortals from approaching the gold.
The Spanish Peaks and the geologic dikes that radiate from the central "neck" are remnants of a 20-million-year-old volcano.
La Veta ("the vein" in Spanish) is the next town and was first named Fran-cisco Plaza by Col. John Francisco and Frenchman Henry Daigre, who purchased most of the upper Cuchara Valley for their cattle ranch. Their adobe plaza, built in 1862, remains in the center of town as the Francisco Fort Museum, reflecting on 130 years of history via original fort structures, guided tours and numerous artifacts, including Kit Carson's will. The museum is open from Memorial Day until October 5; Wednesday through Saturday, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.; Sunday, 1 to 4 p.m. Admission is $4 for adults, $3 for students and seniors, children age 9 and under are free. Call 719-742-5501 for more information.
Continue south on SR 12 another 10 miles to the mountain village of Cuchara ("spoon" in Spanish), situated on the eastern slope of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains. Stop and stretch your legs in Cuchara's charming and modest "downtown" for a glimpse at local life.
As you begin ascending Cucharas Pass (el. 9,941 ft.), ponderosa, blue spruce and stands of aspen, which should be at their peak for fall colors during the last two weeks of September, will soon surround you. The route over the pass was once a Native American trail, used as early as 1779. Be on the lookout for wildlife such as elk, black bear, bighorn sheep, golden eagle and many others along the way.
About nine miles ahead you'll approach Monument Lake (marked by stone entrances at either end), which is largely obscured by pines. In the center of the lake is the "monument" after which the lake is named. As legend goes, two Native American chiefs turned to stone when a nearby volcano erupted, shrouding them in lava while they unsuccessfully searched for water for their people during a drought. Their tears formed the lake—ultimately providing water for their tribes.
The next landmark is difficult to miss. Just five miles farther south, Stonewall, a 250-foot-tall Dakota Sandstone and granite wall, rises to the west. Once at the bottom of the ocean, it was created some 65 million years ago when the Rocky Mountains were formed.
At Stonewall, SR 12 begins curving east. Continue following the byway through a string of small villages: New Elk Mine, Vigil, Weston, Cordova Plaza and Segundo. Soon you'll come to Cokedale, just north of the highway. This former mining camp was formed in 1906 by the American Refining and Smelting Company to house miners and their families. When the mine shut down in 1947, the townspeople purchased their homes and the public buildings. Cokedale remains the best example of an intact coal camp in Colorado and is listed in the National Register of Historic Places. Adjacent to the town on the south side of SR 12, look for the dramatic ruins of the old coke ovens.
About seven miles farther east, the end of the byway brings you to Trinidad. One of Colorado's most historic communities, Trinidad is shaped by Spanish influence, along with ranching and mining interests. The Corazon de Trinidad National Historic District, downtown, is the heart of this community and is known for its mix of Victorian and southwestern architecture. For an interesting look at local history, visit the Trinidad History Museum at 300 E. Main St., which includes the 1882 Bloom Mansion, 1870 Baca House and the Santa Fe Trail Museum. AAA members receive a discount on admission ($5 for adults, ages 6-16 are $2.50). Open daily, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., May through September. For further information, call 719-846-7217.
For a free booklet detailing the towns, landmarks and tales along the Highway of Legends, call the Huerfano County Chamber at 719-738-1065.
Make it a Weekend
Total mileage: 82 miles
Driving time: 2 hours
AAA tip: Bring along the Scenic Highway of Legends booklet to fully appreciate the history, heritage and people of this area.
"Don't miss": A good look at the Spanish Peaks and some of the approximately 400 fin-shaped dikes that radiate outward from the base of the mountains. They formed when molten rock surged up into vertical cracks, cooled, and then hardened in place.
Recommended: Inn at the Spanish Peaks for southwestern-style lodging that is more reminiscent of a bed-and-breakfast than an inn; 719-742-5313. For a bite to eat, try Black Jack's Saloon and Steakhouse in Trinidad—a favorite among locals; 719-846-9501.
Other attractions: Once atop Cucharas Pass, another available route is Cordova Pass (look for the sign at the summit), heading due east toward the town of Aguilar. The gravel road can be very bumpy and is not suited for RVs or other large vehicles. Aspen groves and unobstructed views of the Spanish Peaks make this a worthwhile diversion.
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