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Feature Article

Hawaii, the Second Time Around

by Robert W. Bone

Hawaii — been there, done that, bought the T-shirt?

First-time travelers to the Hawaiian Islands often take on a heavy mission. They explore Waikiki Beach and Pearl Harbor on Oahu, visit a live volcano on the Big Island, check out beautiful beaches and tropical valleys on Maui, and cruise or hike along the rugged Na Pali Coast on Kauai. Then they return home tired but happy, secure in the knowledge that they have "done" Hawaii.

But returnees to the Fiftieth State always find that no matter what they accomplished the first time around, there is always something more to experience on these isolated Pacific islands. Here are some examples, on each of four islands, of activities that you might not have done on your first—or even your 10th—visit.


Visitors explore on thrilling ecological hiking tours to previously inaccessible waterfalls just north of the Hamakua Coast.
Photo: Rich Grant
Oahu
The bustling capital island of Oahu is the home of Honolulu, Waikiki, and about 90 percent of the state's population. This hub of island life is the center of the action, from pineapple plantations to night clubs. All the Hawaiian islands have cool green mountains and clean white beaches; only Oahu has freeways and skyscrapers as well.
  • Diamond Head climb Few know that the famous volcanic profile that backgrounds Waikiki Beach can be climbed with no special equipment, except a flashlight. The secret is to make your way to a city park inside the crater. Near the parking lot begins a path that winds up through some old World War II military installations dug inside the crater walls. After going through a tunnel and climbing some dark stairs you will emerge at the summit, 760 feet above Waikiki and the waves below. The ascent takes about half an hour and can be a little strenuous at times. Definitely bring a bottle of water, especially on a hot day. The cost is currently $1, which is used to maintain the trail and park.

  • Mokuleia glider rides
    Far out in the country on the island's windy North Shore, about as far from Honolulu as you can get, the Honolulu Soaring Club offers 20-minute rides in aluminum gliders that catch dependable updrafts created by the trade winds in this area. The official price is $120 for two people, but check for frequent promotional discounts. Detailed information is available at 808-677-3404, and ask for "Mister Bill," or e-mail mrbill@poi.net.

  • Sea kayaking
    The waters off Waikiki Beach may be more familiar to the world at large, but Oahu residents know that some of the best and most scenic locations for water fun are on the opposite shore of the island, known as the Windward Side. Both experienced and neophyte ocean kayakers often head for the clear waters of Kaneohe Bay and the adjacent Kailua Bay. Three companies rent kayaks, give lessons and conduct tours in the Windward neighborhood: Twogood Kayaks Hawaii, 808-262-5656, Kailua Sailboards and Kayaks, 808-262-2555, and Hawaiian Watersports, 808-262-5483. Two-person kayaks generally rent for around $30 to $40 a day. Self-guided tours generally can be found for about $60. And day-long guided tours are often launched for about $70 to $80 per person, usually including lunch.
Kauai
The oldest major island in the archipelago, Kauai is locally known as the "Garden Island" because of its decidedly rural feel and relative isolation from the rest of the islands. About 100 miles northwest of Oahu, it is the only island which cannot be seen from other major islands in the chain.
  • In search of the Menehunes
    The continuing mystery of Kauai is, "What happened to the Menehunes," the legendary light-skinned "little people" said to be living on Kauai when the Tahitian Polynesians showed up a couple thousand years ago. Several places in Kauai are linked to the Menehunes, notably the Menehune Fish Pond, where a bend in the Huleia stream has been blocked off with a 900-foot wall so fish could be trapped and fattened there. Then there's the "Menehunes Ditch," the remains of a surprisingly well-constructed aqueduct near Waimea. The Menehunes were said to be accomplished masons, and it's easy to believe when you appreciate the cut and keyed stonework that archeologists say would have been beyond the technical ability of the ancient Hawaiians.

  • Helicopter rides to Niihau
    Just off Kauai is the small "forbidden" privately owned island of Niihau, the only place in the state where the Hawaiian language is still spoken in daily life. Access to casual visitors is normally prohibited, but the landowners have their own helicopter tour service, which offers occasional rides from Kauai. It even lands briefly for a beachcombing excursion, although in areas far away from the island's only village, which remains off limits to all but its residents. Half-day excursions run $280; call 877-441-3500 or 808-335-3500, or e-mail niihauisland@ hawaiian.net for more information.
Maui
Maui, named for a Polynesian demi-god, is known as the "Valley Island" and is the most popular island with visitors outside of Oahu. It is configured around two massive ancient volcanoes and the low isthmus that formed in between the two. One of these mountains is 10,000-foot Haleakala, literally the "House of the Sun," whose summit is easily reached by paved road. Many first-time visitors go to Maui to experience the sunrise and drive the famous road to Hana.

  • Maui's military history
    Many Maui residents themselves do not realize that something called Camp Maui was the home of 20,000 Marines during World War Two, since most evidence of it has been erased. The well-groomed beaches lining luxury hotels in Wailea and Kaanapali once served as training sands for the invasions of Japanese—held islands in the South Pacific. Sharp-eyed veterans still spot the obscure remains of block houses, tank traps, ammunition bunkers and other relics at many places throughout the island. The Fourth Marines—known as Maui's Own—suffered so many losses at Saipan, Iwo Jima and other battlegrounds, that the division was eventually disbanded. Memories live on, however, at a little-known flag-bedecked memorial in a sugar field on Kokomo Road near the village of Haiku—the almost—forgotten site of Camp Maui. Nearby is forested Giggle Hill, which earned its name from its popularity with young Marines and local young women for romancing during the period. Veterans can find more about Camp Maui by visiting the Bailey House Museum at 2375-A Main St. in Wailuku, Maui; 808-244-3326.

  • Up-Country Maui
    The lower slopes of Haleakala, about halfway up the mountain, enjoy quite a different climate than the more traditional tropical atmosphere down at sea level. Some houses have chimneys, and farms grow fruits, vegetables, and flowers, including the dramatic protea blossoms, which require cooler weather. An excursion to Up-Country provides some excellent vistas over the rest of Maui, and usually ends in Kula with a stop at the Tedeschi Winery, the only winery anywhere in Hawaii. Sometimes public events are held on the grounds of the winery. Information can be found on the Tedeschi website, www.mauiwine.com.

    The Big Island of Hawaii
    More than twice the size of all the other islands put together, the Island of Hawaii is known locally simply as the Big Island. It's famous for luxury resorts along the Kona and Kohala Coasts, thousands of acres of cattle ranch land and, of course, for Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, where two live volcanoes form the center of the only place where such phenomena can be witnessed with relative safety anywhere in the United States.
    • The Hamakua Coast
      The small city of Hilo, county seat of Hawaii County, is the usual entrance to an excursion along the often rugged Hamakua Coast, north of town. No beaches here-just a few villages and some wonderfully wild views of foliage and shoreline for about 45 miles. Those who decide to drive the coast may treat themselves to a visit to the commercial but nonprofit Hawaii Tropical Botanical Garden, which occupies a 45-acre rainforest. A ticket and tour usually costs $15 (website at www.htbg.com). Another popular stop is Akaka Falls, a lushly foliaged state park surrounding a 442-foot-high cascade. At almost the northern extremity of the coast, is the dramatically deep and vast Waimea Valley. Now almost deserted, it was the home of an estimated 50,000 Hawaiians in ancient times.

    • Waterfall adventure
      Hardy hikers are full of praise for a thrilling ecological tour run by the adventure-oriented people from Hawaii Forest and Trail. The waterfall tour provides breathtaking views along some sheer cliffs and through a remote, previously inaccessible valley just north of the Hamakua Coast. The five-hour experience passes several waterfalls, and is capped by an especially dramatic cascade. Travelers can be photographed while standing on the narrow trail, which is actually behind the heavy stream of falling water and just above a steep, heart-thumping precipice. Cost for the dramatic tour currently runs $120. Further information: www. hawaii-forest.com/waterfall.html; 800-464-1993.

      Honolulu resident Robert W. Bone is the author of The Maverick Guide to Hawaii (Pelican Publishing Company).


    Planning Your Trip Accommodations: AAA Travel professionals can guide you to numerous properties, many of which are AAA-approved.

    More Information: Hawaii Visitor and Convention Bureau, 1-800-464-2924, or www.gohawaii. com, or www.aaa.com.



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