Feature Article

Mishongnovi Eagle Dancers take part in a ritual, native dance at the Indian Arts & Western Culture Festival at Mesa Verde.

Mesa Verde
Country Indian Arts & Western Culture Festival

story and photo
by Sally Moore

Except for the raven's cry, the centuries' silence is seldom broken in the far reaches of the Mesa Verde. Even on special days during the annual Indian Arts & Western Culture Festival, May 23 through June 1, quiet pervades the amphitheater. At an unseen signal, four Hopi elders enter the arena with slow and deliberate steps. The audience waits in hushed anticipation as the drums begin their mesmerizing rhythm and sonorous chants echo over the rocks and canyons. Appearing as apparitions from another time, two eagle dancers materialize and begin, with measured steps and fluttering wings, their homage to the spirits. The age-old magic holds.

Awarded "One of North America's 100 Top Events for 2003" by the American Bus Association, the weeklong Mesa Verde Country festival has many such moments. The area is rich with the heritage of the Ancestral Pueblo people of the past and the Native Americans living there today. To showcase the area's archaeology, Native American culture and Old West history, Mesa Verde National Park; the communities of Cortez, Dolores and Mancos; and the Ute town of Towaoc cooperate to produce an event that has an experience for everyone.

Undoubtedly, the region's main attraction is Mesa Verde National Park, and many events take place there. Awarded the designation of World Cultural Heritage Site by UNESCO, Mesa Verde has 52,123 acres peppered with significant archaeological sites occupied by the Ancestral Pueblo people from A.D. 550 to 1300. Although a draw in its own right, the national park plays a supporting role by supplying the venue for special events, including the Hopi dancers who perform three times daily at Morefield Amphitheater. One evening Morefield hosts the Native American Artist concert featuring top performers such as Carlos Nakai, who enchanted and enlightened last year's audience with his playing and anecdotes.

The popular juried Indian Art Market runs daily at Morefield and features many award-winning artists such as Santo Domingo's prized potter Robert Tenorio, Flagstaff painter Joe Maktima, Navajo carver Dan Yazzie, and Hopi basket weaver Doris Hoyungowa. Under a big-top tent, more than 100 artists are friendly and approachable, giving the visitor an unusual opportunity to learn from these masters. Pottery, weaving, painting, carving, jewelry and more are on display.

For those who love Navajo weaving but blanch at gallery prices, the rug auction and seminar at Far View Terrace is a wonderful opportunity, providing high-quality rugs at great prices. The selection varies from small sampler pieces to room-size rugs. If you're after a Two Grey Hills for a wall hanging, a Ganado for your den, or a Yeibichai runner for your table, you'll find it here. Even if you're not in the market to buy, it's an educational opportunity.

Throughout the week, other venues mount special events. Ute Mountain Tribal Park, which contains ruins similar to and of the same period as the Mesa Verde, is a good choice for previous visitors to the area who are looking for a different experience. The half-day tour is best for the majority of visitors, but for the adventurous, the wholeday excursion provides an exciting experience. The last weekend of the festival, Towaoc hosts its annual celebration featuring the Bear Dance, singing, games and traditional foods.

The Cortez Cultural Center programs have interpretive exhibits on the Basketmaker and Pueblo periods of the Ancestral Pueblo people in addition to showcasing exhibits on the Navajo, Ute and Hopi. Their summer programs include Indian cultural offerings, traditional Indian dancing, and "Black Shawl," a nightly outdoor drama. Written and performed by acclaimed American Indian play-wright and actress Sharon French, the one-woman show is a tour de force as French skillfully portrays each character with grace and humor. The play traces the relationship between an elderly and wise Navajo woman named Black Shawl and Sarah Mara Boots, a half-Navajo/half-Piute girl raised by white settlers after her parents are killed. Sarah, who was eventually taken back to the reservation and married Mormon missionary Ira Hatch, is French's great-grandmother.

The Center's additional festival offerings are exhibits on "working the wool" and Anasazi pottery demonstrations by featured artist Mike Kanteena of New Laguna, N.M. In addition to these demonstrations, Kanteena will be present Friday, May 23, at an opening ceremony and reception at Mesa Indian Trading Company and Gallery, located just east of Cortez.

Anasazi Heritage Center, on the "Trail of the Ancients Scenic Byway" in Dolores, is a museum dedicated to interpreting the history and culture of the Canyons of the Ancients National Monument and the Four Corners region. The Center's hands-on discovery area, education programs, permanent exhibits and films explore the archaeology, local history and lifestyles of the Pueblo, Ute and Navajo people. More than three million artifacts from southwest Colorado are curated at the museum and available for research. During the festival, the museum will mount a special exhibit titled "A Celebration of Basket Weaving."

Crow Canyon Archaeological Center near Cortez is dedicated to long-term archaeological research on the Ancestral Pueblo occupation of the Mesa Verde region. On Wednesday, May 28, the center plans a day program at its headquarters. A site tour is included and participants may watch archaeologists at work on a dig—excavating, sifting soil for artifacts and recording any and all findings.

Local towns contribute to the festivities. If you love fiddle music, you'll want to check out the Second Annual Mancos Old Time Fiddler's Contest Saturday, May 31, and Sunday, June 1. Events take place in Boyle Park, with contests, jam sessions and workshops for guitar, fiddle and bass. The Bartel family, which gives authentic stagecoach tours out of their ranch in Weber Canyon, plan in-town coach rides. Storytellers will be on hand to spin tales, and an antique and western art show and sale is scheduled.

The town of Dolores celebrates on Saturday, May 31, with River Rafting Day on the Dolores River and special rides on the Galloping Goose. The bizarre and historic narrow-gauge railroad vehicle has been restored and a small portion of its track relaid.

Those planning to attend all or part of this year's festival will find restaurants and accommodations in Cortez, Dolores and Mancos, or in the park. Far View Lodge has 150 rooms with private balconies and no television to detract from the park experience. Far View Terrace-Marketplace has a wide variety of breakfast, lunch and dinner options in a food court setting. Spruce Tree Terrace, located near the park museum, is fine for quick lunches and snacks. Morefield Campground has 425 units with tenting sites and 15 RV hookups. Other campgrounds are located in Cortez, Dolores, Mancos and Towaoc.

Planning Your Trip

More information: Check with your AAA Travel professional, 303-753-8800, or visit www.aaa.com. Mesa Verde Country, P.O. Box HH, Cortez 81321; 800-530-2998 or 970-565-8227; mcedc@swcolo.org, or www.mesaverdecountry.com. Mesa Verde National Park: for lodging, tours, restaurants, phone ARAMARK 800-449-2288. For park information, 970-529-4465, www.nps.gov/ meve or www.visitmesaverde.com.

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