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Mini Tour
Walking Through Time
Denver History
Comes Alive
by Margo Ellis
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Start the tour at the intersection of 17th and Wynkoop streets in Lower Downtown (LoDo), where the massive yet graceful Union Station stands. Opened May 13, 1881, the station officially made Denver a regional rail hub. During the height of passenger train popularity, as many as 88 trains per day came through Union Station, carrying more than 1 million passengers annually. In 1894 a fire partially destroyed the depot, and in 1914 the lobby was enlarged and restored to its original Beaux-Arts Classicism and Romanesque architectural style, complete with 65-foot ceilings and high-backed solid oak benches that once contained warming radiators. Today, just one or two trains per day pass through the grandiose three-story train station, but it still serves as both an anchor and icon in LoDo, and has recently been named as the city's new hub for Light Rail, buses and 16th Street Mall shuttles.
Continuing on the tour, walk up to the corner of 17th and Wazee streets to the Oxford, Denver's oldest operating hotel, opened in 1891 and now on the National Register of Historic Places. According to the Rocky Mountain News, the Oxford offered the latest technology, from its own power plant and steam heating to electric and gas lighting. Such modern conveniences, coupled with its close proximity to Union Station, spurred the Oxford's immediate popularity, leading to the addition of the 55-room Annex on the Wazee Street side in 1912. Following World War II, railroad transportation collapsed and LoDo hit hard economic times, although the Oxford Hotel persevered. In 1979 it underwent a three-year restoration project costing more than $12 million and today draws the same kinds of crowds it once did.
For a change of pace, visit the Oxford's crimson-hued Cruise Room, an Art Deco bar fashioned after a lounge on the Queen Mary cruise ship. The bar opened the day Prohibition ended in 1933. Neon lights illuminate numerous original panels-each depicting "toasts" from countries around the world—that line the walls. A Denver institution in its own right, the bar is also listed on the National Register of Historic Places.
The next stop on the tour is Larimer Square; to reach it, continue on 17th Street, then turn right on Larimer Street and walk two blocks. As the Mile High City's oldest and most historic block, the square tells the story of Denver's goldrush roots. Nestled at the confluence of the South Platte River and Cherry Creek, the area had long been inhabited by the Cheyenne and Arapaho. Everything changed, however, when small amounts of gold were discovered; in a heartbeat the settlement sprang to life in 1858.
Denver initially began as two towns, Auraria and St. Charles. Soon after, General William H. Larimer Jr. showed up, liked what he saw and "jumped the claim" (on St. Charles). He also renamed the site Denver City after James Denver, the territorial governor of Kansas. In 1861, Auraria and Denver City merged, forming the city of Denver.
In those days, Larimer Square's wooden buildings resembled the backdrop of a classic Old West movie set. In 1863, though, fires destroyed many of them. The surviving present-day two- and three-story brick buildings date from the late 19th century, incorporating a variety of Victorian, Gothic Revival, Renaissance Revival and Neoclassical architectural elements. Fortunately, these second-generation buildings were spared from demolition during the sweeping urban renewal projects of the mid-1960s, primarily due to the efforts of Denver preservationist Dana Crawford. The project has been nationally recognized as one of the first successful preservation efforts of its kind. Today's Larimer Square offers a little of everything-shops, restaurants, entertainment and lively atmosphere year-round. Leaving Larimer Square, walk up 14th Street, past the Hotel Teatro and the Denver Center for the Performing Arts on the right. You will pass historic Auditorium Theatre, located on 14th between Curtis and Champa streets. In November 2002, Denver voters approved funding for a much-needed renovation of the 95-year-old city landmark.
Head left on Champa and at the end of the block, on 15th Street, is the noteworthy and striking (particularly at night) Denver Gas and Electric Building, constructed in 1910. Once heralded as "the best lighted building in the world," the exterior is covered with some 13,000 lightbulbs. Restored in 1990, the building now houses insurance exchange offices, and still illuminates downtown every night. Just one block up Champa is the 16th Street Mall—a tree—lined pedestrian promenade that runs through the center of downtown. Historic buildings of note on the mall are the Daniels and Fisher Tower, the Denver Dry Building and the Paramount Theater. Lined with cafés, shops, restaurants, historic office buildings, fountains and entertainers, the mall is perfect for people-watching. For the last stop on the tour, follow 16th Street to Broadway, across Colfax Avenue to the Colorado State Capitol, completed in 1908. Except for the brass and oak trimmings inside, the building was constructed using all Colorado material—from the wainscoting of Colorado Rose Onyx marble (unique in the world), to the Yule Marble floors and stairs from the quarry in the town of Marble, to the 200-ounce pure gold leaf dome, a gift from Colorado miners. The Capitol is open to the public Monday through Friday, 7 a.m. to 5:30 p.m., with free 45-minute tours given from 9:15 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. At press time the dome was closed to the public indefinitely; check with Capitol officials for updates: 303-866-2604.
Walking back to Union Station—bringing the tour full circle—it can be hard to imagine Denver as it once was. But with some insight on Denver's lively and interesting history, you just might be able to conjure up long-gone images of bustling streets filled with horse-drawn carriages, streetcars, miners in dusty denim, and women in hats and long, flowing dresses-the bygone days of yesteryear.
Make it a Weekend
AAA tip:
Parking downtown is usually difficult; take Light Rail, which stops at Union Station. If you do drive, Larimer Square has a parking garage at 1422 Market St.; merchants can validate customers' tickets. Don't miss: A free tour of the Capitol building for an all-encompassing snapshot on how the capital city came to be.
Recommended: McCormick's Fish House & Bar in the Oxford Hotel at 17th and Wazee streets for consistently good food and comfortable surroundings; 303-825-1107.
Other attractions: While in the area, additional downtown historical attractions include: Colorado History Museum, Black American West Museum & Heritage Center, Molly Brown House Museum, and Byers-Evans House Museum; check your
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