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Feature Article
The Wonderful World of (Colorado) Wine by Alta and Brad Smith It often comes as a surprise to Coloradans—even those who enjoy wine—that their state has the fastest growing wine industry in the United States. Most who have purchased Colorado wine probably have heard of a few wineries…well, that's the proverbial drop in the bucket. The industry has come a long way since 1990, when there were four wineries nestled in one location in the Grand Valley. Today, there are 45 wineries in Colorado and new ones are opening every year. They are scattered across the state, from McElmo Canyon near the Navajo Reservation to Loveland at the foot of the Rockies. You'll find them in mountain towns like Aspen, at a former monastery in Canõn City and even in the city of Denver. And they're having a positive impact on our agricultural industry. In fact, in fiscal year 2002 Colorado's wine industry recorded $6.2 million in sales, with Colorado producers increasing their market share about 30 percent over the previous year. What has spurred such a successful, non-traditional Colorado industry? Oddly, it was the recession in the state's oil industry in the 1980s. That economic downturn brought a number of unemployed to the Grand Valley—some of whom saw the region's climate and soil composition as good for winemaking. From the ranks of these jobless came winemakers, vineyard managers and owners. The next wave—and growth spurt in the business—came during the economic upturn of the late 1990s, which drew people with California wine-culture backgrounds, technological skill and money to invest. A third group of vintners is actually homegrown—the result of a hobby that got out of hand, as several will tell you. From such a strong Grand Valley genesis, the industry has expanded across the state—not only showing diversity geographically but in winemaking. Colorado's wineries now produce a wide range of wine styles, including light and fruity Chardonnays, hearty and full-bodied Cabernet Sauvignons, and rich, port-style dessert wines. With such offerings from so many places, where does a Colorado wine lover start? The best single place to discover wines from many of these wineries is at the Colorado Mountain WineFest, held annually the third weekend in September in Palisade. Now in its 12th year, the festival is expected to draw 25 wineries to shady Palisade Park on Saturday, Sept. 20. While wine tasting is what many come for, there's plenty to do other than sample the wines, including non-stop live entertainment, a variety of wine-friendly food, ice-carving, cooking demonstrations, grape-stomping and arts and crafts. When you first enter the festival grounds, there may be a temptation to set out immediately, but veteran festival-goers stop for a minute and look at the map to see where everything is. Have a plan of what you want to see and do or you might be overwhelmed by the variety and numbers of booths. This year, a panel of judges will have tasted and voted on their choice of the best professional wines at the WineFest before the festival begins, so look for a "Best of the Fest" list near the entrance. While this list is a good starting point, remember that you are the best judge of what you like, so don't feel obligated to go by their word alone. The "Big Three" grape varieties grown in Colorado are Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot—many are award-winners—but vineyards and wineries in recent years have spread their wings and are trying some grapes with which you may not be familiar. For the more adventurous, narrow your investigation to finding wines made from such grapes as Lemberger (it's not a cheese), Viognier and Gewurztraminer, or blends like Claret or Meritage. You'll also find non-grape wines made from fruit and honey. Overall, remember Colorado's wine industry is young enough that it is still trying to find its signature wines. WineFest is a good place to discover the emerging distinctive styles and to imagine what one day might become Colorado's distinguishing wines. Basic guidelines for wine tasting When it comes to discovering and learning about wine, here are some basic guidelines. Keep in mind that an event such as WineFest is not about drinking wine, it's about sampling wine. What's the difference? There are several ways in which experts determine the quality of wine—without ever actually drinking the wine. First, remember that all the senses are used. Like anything else worth knowing about, the more you learn, the more you appreciate it. In the beginning, the eyes have it. Look at the wine in the glass. A deeper color may mean richer flavors. Color gradations may mean more complexity. Clarity often means the wine has been filtered and "fined," two processes about which aficionados often debate. The next step uses the nose, which discerns thousands of different aromas in a wine. This is where you'll hear a lot of "winespeak," which is okay in its place because it helps describe the wines. First, vigorously swirl the wine in the glass and then sniff deeply. Do you smell grass, cherries, smoke, vanilla, tropical fruit? Don't worry if you don't smell them, though, because this takes "sniff-education." Only then do you take a small sip. Your tongue can taste only four things-sweet, sour, bitter and salt-and you shouldn't find the last flavor in wine. Your tongue also has tactile sensations, so see if the wine feels smooth like cream or has a bite. After this, the wine cognescenti spit the wine out in one of the containers at the booths because at that point they know all they need to know. As for the Winefest, here's just a few of this year's offerings at some of the booths: As you wander around WineFest, enjoying the entertainment, viewing the ice sculptures, sampling the food and responsibly tasting the numerous and varied wines, think of yourself as on a journey—a journey that explores the state's wine industry within the festival's boundaries. Most important of all, think of your journey as both enjoyable and informative—as Nuernberg says, "the festival's about the fun and adventure of finding out what you like in wine and food." Alta and Brad Smith are authors of The Guide to Colorado Wineries, published by Fulcrum Publishing, and are certified sommeliers by the International Wine Guild.
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