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Feature Article
What Makes Taos Taos by Margo Ellis I awoke at dawn, the sun barely peeking over the rounded, periwinkle blue Sangre de Cristo Mountains. Nighttime had brought a light dusting of snow, while above loomed the vast azure sky—so vivid and endless I thought it might swallow me up. The crisp morning air carried scents of burning piñon and fresh sagebrush. I closed my eyes, breathed deeply and relished the moment. This is why I love New Mexico. I was back in my native state—remembering the lure of living amidst such unspoiled natural beauty. After calling this region home for some 25 years, I still find myself surprised at how Taos' enrapturing effect isn't lost on me when I return. D.H. Lawrence once observed: "You cannot come to Taos without feeling that here is one of the chosen spots on earth." Like so many writers, artists and everyday folk before and after him, the English novelist came to Taos for a visit and was so captivated by /the town's peaceful aura, timeless charm and distinct melding of cultures, he made it home. With human history dating back more than 1,000 years, this high-desert community in northern New Mexico feels otherworldly—like a country within our country. Life moves at a different and much slower pace here, which, if you're open to it, is a refreshing change. There is something magical here—especially in fall when the sun casts long shadows against the landscape and indigenous architecture—that calms the mind and rejuvenates the soul. Taos is a curious blend of old and new, sophisticated yet down-to-earth, tight-knit yet welcoming, and always culturally rich. Taos' history is inextricably tied to its tapestry of ethnic influences: Hispano, Native American, and Anglo. This unique combination of cultures—and all its outward expressions—is, in essence, what makes Taos Taos. You'll see, hear and feel it the moment you step out of the car. It's all around—in the art, architecture, music, language, clothing, food, festivals, dance and, most of all, faces of the locals. The area known as Taos is actually comprised of three separate villages: the Spanish Plaza or town proper (Don Fernando de Taos); Pueblo de Taos (San Gerónimo de Taos); and Rancho de Taos, formerly a farming community where the famously depicted adobe-buttressed mission church, San Francisco de Asis, is located. Tying these three villages together is the simple, stark beauty of adobe architecture. Adobe, which was developed by Native Americans and later adopted by Spanish settlers, is simply sun-baked bricks of dirt, straw, sand and water. Out of such basic materials comes the dramatic structures that are synonymous with the desert Southwest. Visitors who look within the walls of Taos' earthen and distinctive buildings will find history and a cultural richness that's steeped in tradition. Inhabited for more than 1,000 years, Taos Pueblo is the oldest continuously occupied dwelling in the United States. The Pueblo's iconic structure is also the most well-known of all New Mexico's 19 sovereign tribes, partially due to its striking, five-storied adobe buildings with jutting vigas (roofbeams) and ladders used to reach the upper floors. Called Tu-tah-"our village" in native Tiwa-Taos Pueblo sits on 95,343 acres of land. The Pueblo looks much like it did 450 years ago, when Spain made its first foray into New Mexico. Present-day Taos Pueblo Indians still maintain a fierce independence and reverence for the land. "About 150 of our 2,200 members still live inside the Pueblo, existing in the same conditions as our ancestors, with no electricity or running water," explains Richard Archuleta, director of tourism at Taos Pueblo. "Our religion is based on nature. We have respect for the earth and can't allow it to be damaged by utility lines and pipes." Today, Catholicism—transplanted from Spanish explorers—and native spiritual beliefs that emphasize harmony with the earth and its creatures, coexist in Taos Pueblo. Its members hold firm to the belief that one doesn't own the land but belongs to it—a point of contention with early Spaniards. Descendents of Spanish settlers—now known as Hispanos—make up the majority of the population in Taos. Their ancestors—Spanish conquistadors, priests and explorers—arrived in the area in 1540 and claimed the region in the name of the motherland and the Catholic Church. A successful revolt in 1680 by the Pueblo Indians resulted in the expulsion of Spaniards from New Mexico. In 1693, however, Spaniard Don Diego de Vargas returned to lead a successful reconquest of New Mexico, establishing Taos as a major trade center for the next 200 years. La Hacienda de los Martinez, one of the few existing restored examples of New Mexico Spanish Colonial architecture, became a bastion of trade — everything from commodities to slaves—during the 19th century. Tours of the 21-room fortress highlight the history and living conditions of the prominent Martinez family. Although modern-day Taos has faded as a trade center, it is a thriving artist colony. Considering the area's rich multicultural heritage and stunning landscape, the area is a veritable haven for painters, sculptors, photographers, potters, jewelry-makers and writers. With more than 100 galleries and museums, Taos lays claim to more artists (many of whom are nationally and internationally renowned) per capita than Paris. Brian, a local artist, explains, "There's just something unmistakably sacred and spiritual about this place…it brings out the creative side in all of us." Finding galleries in the Taos Valley isn't difficult; as one artist put it, "Throw a stone in any direction and you'll hit 20 of us." The town boasts five interesting museums to guide you through Taos' illustrious art history, which includes the now-famous Taos Society of Artists (established in 1915) and the thriving local art community. The creative process even extends to Taos' outstanding cuisine, which is an art form in itself and practically a way of life here. Fall is a particularly special time for the palate in New Mexico, as the chile harvest begins in September. Just follow your nose to the myriad roadside chile-roasting stands for a bit of local flavor. On the other hand, if you're dining out, Taos has more than 50 restaurants serving authentic New Mexican food, haute cuisine and everything in-between. Classically trained chefs often use traditional New Mexican ingredients in inventive ways to create dishes that have an unusual flair. Try as I may to describe the soul, spirit and lifeblood of this community, words seem to fall short, for this is one place you truly must experience for yourself to appreciate its collective personality, rich traditions and unmatched landscape. D.H. Lawrence also said of Taos, "It was the greatest experience from the outside world that I ever had. It certainly changed me forever." Going home again, I can say it even changed me—all over again. Margo Ellis is the former managing editor of EnCompass magazine; she now resides in Washington D.C.
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