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AAA Mini Tour
Three ways to enjoy Colorado National Monument in winter Article and photo by John Fielder You're driving cautiously through fog and light snow when, suddenly, an apparition emerges from the world of white: the towering sandstone monolith called Independence Monument. You glimpse the dusting of snow that decorates its flat top as you park at the Grand View overlook on Rim Rock Drive. In a flash, you are out of the car, pointing and shooting your camera to capture this short-lived moment on film. The cool, moist air chills your cheeks, and the serenity of a place devoid of any sound calms your soul. Amazingly, you are just 10 minutes from the town of Grand Junction—and you are the only person witnessing this scene. This month's Mini Tour takes you to an overlooked Colorado escape that features scenery travelers would typically expect to find in places such as Utah's Canyonlands National Park. Colorado National Monument is a gallery of our state's best collection of natural sandstone sculptures—sheer cliffs, balanced rocks, deep canyons, and tall monoliths. It's similar to Canyonlands, but on a smaller scale and much closer to civilization. And with average daytime highs around 45 degrees, the monument enjoys a mild winter climate much like Denver's, but with less snow. If you want to leave the crowds behind and commune with nature, winter at the monument is for you. Red rocks frosted with fresh snow make one of the most beautiful and unusual scenes in Colorado, so time your visit with weather reports of an approaching Pacific storm and you might get lucky! You can even cross-country ski if a storm dumps a load of the white stuff. But act fast—the western Colorado sun melts snow from the rocks in a jiffy. Although the natural environment of Colorado National Monument is best explored on foot, visitors can experience it on several activity levels. Roadside ViewerFew scenic roads in Colorado—or in the West, for that matter—can match Rim Rock Drive. It offers 23 paved miles of breathtaking views as it winds along the rim of the monument's plateau. Only a short drive from Grand Junction, both the west and east entrances are located in the Grand Valley, through which flows the Colorado River (once called the Grand River). Rim Rock Drive begins at either entrance at 4,700 feet in elevation. It quickly ascends steep canyons on the way to the road's highest point, West Glade Park Junction, at 6,479 feet.When driving Rim Rock Drive, check carefully for passing vehicles and cyclists before pulling away from the overlooks. Drive slowly: The road hugs the cliffs quite closely, and wet or snowy weather can make it treacherous. More than a dozen overlooks dot the roadside. Prime viewing spots include Red Canyon Overlook, which reveals the largest, longest flat wall in the monument. Facing southeast, this two-mile-long vertical cliff of Wingate Sandstone bathes in the warm yellow light of sunrise. With your camera set on wide-angle or panoramic modes, you can make a remarkable photograph of the entire wall as it recedes down into the Grand Valley. Find wind-shaped piñon and juniper trees on the canyon edge to include as foreground in your composition (see cover photo). The Coke Ovens Overlook offers views of massive rounded rock formations. From the Independence Monument View, stare straight at the west face of the monument's most conspicuous feature, a 550-foot-high spire less than a half-mile away. Because the entire plateau faces generally east, sunrise is the optimal time to photograph Independence Monument. Try to arrive before sunrise in order to catch the light just as it crests the mountains to the east. Active HikerLeave your vehicle and enjoy any of several short hikes that will get you away from traffic, what little there is in winter. Eight trails no more than two miles in one-way length provide from 30 minutes to four hours of hiking amidst sublime scenery. Winter hikers will gain a new appreciation for the bright Colorado sun: That sun on your back on a 45-degree day eliminates the nip of the cold, dry air, but descend into the shadows of a canyon and you'll be glad for your jacket!Wear sun protection and layers of clothing when hiking the monument in winter. It's much colder in the shade than in sunshine. Though average daytime highs are moderate, the temperature can drop below zero. On a hike, carry plenty of water and don't forget to tell someone where you are heading if you go alone. Tread lightly on the land to ensure that future generations will enjoy this place as much as you have. Among my favorite short hikes in the monument, Window Rock Trail, an easy and level hike through piñon-juniper woodland, culminates in a fine view of Monument and Wedding Canyons, as well as of Independence Monument. The round trip is only a half-mile. For a one-mile, hour-long tour, take Otto's Trail, named after the father of the monument, John Otto. This trail lets you get up close and personal with a spectacular monolith called the Pipe Organ. Do this hike in the evening in order to photograph light cast by the setting sun on the formation. Near the monument's east entrance, the Devils Kitchen Trail, a one-hour roundtrip walk, descends into a natural grotto surrounded by huge upright boulders. For a good workout, hike the winding Serpents Trail. This historic route has more than 50 switchbacks, so give yourself a couple of hours to do this one-way. Because this trail meets Rim Rock Drive at two different places, have someone pick you up at the other end. The Serpents Trail was the original wagon road that Glade Park residents traveled to get from their ranches to Grand Junction. It closed to vehicles in 1951, by which time Rim Rock Drive had been completed. Compose a scene with your camera to include several of the trail's switchbacks. Adventure SeekerTo completely immerse yourself in the sensory extravaganza of Colorado National Monument, spend a half to a full day on a backcountry trail. You'll appreciate not just the views, but the sounds, smells, touch, and perhaps the taste (a nibble on fresh snow when you're thirsty) of this place.Summer provides the best opportunity to see wildlife, as most insect-eating birds leave in winter, to be replaced by migratory species. However, the backcountry still affords the best chance to witness a bald eagle flying up from the Colorado River. Mule deer, coyotes, and mountain lions live in the monument year-round. It's not uncommon to see deer around the visitor center in winter, or to hear the howl of the coyote at night. Don't expect to encounter the elusive mountain lion, but do keep your eyes peeled for its tracks. Once native to the monument, desert bighorn sheep were all but gone by the end of the 19th century. Nevertheless, keep an eye out for a new herd transplanted here in 1979. With far-reaching views west to Utah, east to the Grand Valley, and south to the San Juan Mountains, Black Ridge Trail is the highest in the monument. The roundtrip hike covers 11 miles and can easily be completed in six hours. Remember though, in January, you're working with about 10 hours of daylight. The trail stays above the canyons, winding through piñon-juniper forest and courses for one section out of the monument onto public lands. If you wish to look up, rather than across, at Independence Monument, hike the Monument Canyon Trail. A steep 600-foot descent is required from Rim Rock Drive, or you can begin from below at the trailhead along Colorado Highway 340. If you have someone pick you up at one end of the trail, the one-way distance of the hike measures six miles. When a significant amount of snow falls, try cross-country skiing the Liberty Cap Trail. As you head east, the trail gently winds for seven miles across Monument Mesa through piñon-juniper forest and sagebrush flats to the Liberty Cap rock sculpture. The last 1.5 miles drop steeply to the Grand Valley, where you could plan to meet your ride at the trail's end. John Fielder has been driving, hiking, and photographing Colorado for 35 years. His comprehensive travel guide, John Fielder's Best of Colorado, is available at bookstores and Colorado AAA offices, or by visiting www.johnfielder.com.
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