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EnCompass®
The AAA Companion |
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July | August 2004
Volume 78 Issue 4
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Feature Article
Canada's Cottage Country
A self driving tour around the Georgian Bay of Lake Huron reveals
the
heart of our neighbor to the north
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| One of the cabins at Killarney Mountain Lodge, a family resort with a perfect location. |
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Article and photograph by Jeff Miller
"…quiet roads lead past sunlit fields of wildflowers,
deep green stands of forests, tidy farms and homey folk art shops."
"Cottage Country" — To many Canadians, this expression is noun, verb and adjective all rolled into one. It sums up the classic Canadian summer experience of sitting at a cabin by a lake, hearing the haunting call of the loon, paddling a canoe across mirror-calm waters, or just basking in the scenic blend of water, rocks and wind-gnarled pines.
The epitome of cottage country is found in the province of Ontario along the shores of the Georgian Bay, a few hours drive north of Toronto. At 120 miles long and 50 miles wide, the Bay contains the world's largest freshwater island (Manitoulin) and the highest concentration of islands (30,000) — as well as some intangibles.
"You can't get much more Canadian than the Georgian Bay," said Tom, a native-born Ontarian. "Like my friends, I live in Toronto, but my heart is in the Georgian Bay."
The best way to get a glimpse into what this beautiful part of Canada has to offer, is a self-guided four-or-five-day driving tour that's round trip from Toronto and circles the Georgian Bay completely. Along the 350-mile journey is a half-day cruise ship that gives a good overview of the Bay, a number of excellent interpretative sites that tell the stories of both native Indians and European pioneers, a scenic car ferry, some of the best wilderness parks and hiking trails in Ontario, and a few family-owned resorts with wooden cabins, canoes and the prerequisite loons (of the bird variety).
Starting from Toronto, it's a two-hour drive to the first destination, Midland, which is at the bottom of the oblong-shaped Georgian Bay. While the main feeder road, Highway 400 North, can be packed, once you take any of the exits that lead to Midland everything drops down a few gears, shifting into Canadian calm. The two-lane road-sometimes without a middle line to point the way-meanders lightly through green rolling hills, tidy farmland and thick stands of sweet-smelling pines. Ranch and bungalow homes are set back on large manicured lawns, which act as canvases for true Canadian outdoor décor — everything from little windmills and wishing wells to racoon statues.
Midland (population 16,400) is a typical Ontario town — old brick buildings line an active main street, while sturdy brick homes and clapboard Victorians radiate out in all directions. Adding splashes of color are nearly 30 giant outdoor murals scattered through town. The main street leads to a harbor where yachts and motor boats shelter. This is one of the few places on the Bay where visitors can take cruise tours through the intricate maze of islands and inlets.
The cruise ship "Miss Midland" holds 300 passengers and takes about three hours to complete a circuit that includes passing the island where the famous Wright brothers sought privacy. Today, you get up close and personal with island residents as the boat glides through narrow channels like a float in a parade, and elicits almost as many friendly waves.
All around is the land and water of the Canadian Shield — a unique geological formation of ancient bedrock. The scenery arising from the Shield was the inspiration for the "Group of Seven," renowned Ontario landscape artists who appreciated what's still there today — navy blue water, granite gray rocks spotted with lichen, wind-swept green pines, and a sky shaded like a robin's egg. It's timeless beauty that radiates both strength and tranquility.
That same feeling can be found on the hiking trails of nearby but little-known Awenda Provincial Park. Walking among the tranquil, towering evergreens, brings to mind native Indians and European pioneers. The Midland area has three notable sites for learning more about both groups:
Huronia Museum & Horon-Onendat Village — Canada's first recreated native village has two magnificent bark longhouses and offers a look at tanning hides and making birchbark canoes. A guided tour and a small but fascinating museum make background basics come to life.
Sainte-Marie Among the Hurons — This rebuilt 17th Century fortress was the headquarters of the French Jesuit mission to the Huron Nation. Today, it's nothing short of spectacular, with log and stone buildings, costumed staff and guides, and a superb visitors center.
Discovery Harbour — A huge reconstructed marine heritage site representing the early 1800s, it boasts 15 log and stone buildings (the best is the officers quarters), two replica schooners that take visitors out on sails, excellent guided tours, and a good interpretative staff.
Sadly, nearby Georgian Bay Islands National Park is not user friendly for those without a boat — the visitor's center is on an island.
Heading west out of Midland, the next stop is Cawaja Beach to walk on one of the longest stretches of freshwater beaches in the world — more than 20 miles long. The water is surprisingly warm, although not Caribbean comfortable.
Further on and to the north is the Bruce Peninsula, which is the bottom pincher that nearly cuts off the Georgian Bay from Lake Huron. The Peninsula has beaches on either side, good hiking trails, and picturesque villages. The busiest town is Tobermory, where the ferry leaves for the two-hour ride to Manitoulin Island (the top pincher of the Bay).
At 110 miles long and 50 miles wide, Manitoulin is the largest freshwater island in the world. The island is so big it contains more than 100 lakes, many of which have their own islands!
Manitoulin's beauty is gentle yet overwhelming. Small, quiet roads lead past sunlit fields of wild flowers, deep green stands of forests, tidy farms and homey folk art shops.
Consider timing your visit to coincide with Manitoulin's Wikwemikong Pow Wow, held on Canada's Civic Holiday (the first weekend in August). Indians from across North America gather on the Wikwemikong Unceded Indian Reserve — home to the Odawa, Ojibway and Potawotami tribes. They share their spiritual similarities and love of dance, traditional foods and crafts (fry bread to porcupine quill boxes), and give visitors a small sense of the Indian experience.
Indian spiritualism is perfect preparation for the next stop on circling the Georgian Bay-Killarney Provincial Park. A half day's drive from Manitoulin (across a short bridge to the mainland), the park contains some of Ontario's prettiest scenery. Evergreen covered mountains, accented by chalk-colored ridges, plays backdrop to deep blue lakes and lush marshlands. This large wilderness can be explored either on hikes or via rental canoe for one day or multiple-day outings.
Killarney Outfitters gives guided canoe day trips. The guides always start with a quick paddle and canoe lesson, showing how to perform the energy-saving "J" stroke, and how to gracefully get in and out of the vessel. Once out on the water, the group is overwhelmed by the still, deep waters that reflect the massive mountains.
Because of the park's wilderness location, the best place to stay is nearby Killarney Mountain Lodge. A traditional, family-run resort, its free-standing cabins and comfortable knotted-pine rooms are scattered along a stretch of Georgian Bay coastline that's classic-gnarled pines spring from the granite outcroppings, window-clear water laps at the shore, and the cobalt blue sky envelops everything in its massive embrace.
Here is the true cottage country experience. After a day of canoeing, just sit at the water's edge and watch the sun flame into the Bay. Then lie back on the still warm rocks and watch the stars come out. Most summer nights you can spot meteorites as they streak across the sky, and sometimes even catch the Northern Lights as they do their unearthly dance.
Heading home, every mile of the drive south brings you closer to Toronto, literally and figuratively. Still, there are nice spots to be found before reaching the city, including: popular Killbear Provincial Park, with Lookout Point Trail's views of the Bay; the family run Snug Harbour Resort, with cozy cabins, tiny private beach and canoes; and bustling Parry Sound with good shopping and a variety of boat and float-plane tours.
By the time you get back to Toronto, you're going to feel like a Canadian-awed by what you've seen, and minus a small piece of your heart…that now resides in the Georgian Bay.
Jeff Miller is editor of EnCompass.
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