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EnCompass®
The AAA Companion |
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May | June 2004
Volume 78 Issue 3
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Feature Article
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| Ayers Rock (known to the Aborginal name Uluru) — The Red Center
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Got two weeks?
Go for Australia.
Here's how to sample the best of the land Down Under
Article and photos by Jeff Miller
Every year for more than a decade, numerous travel-related polls have shown Australia to be one of the top two or three "dream" destinations of Americans.
Why does the land of kangaroos and koalas, Outback and rainforest, remain a perennial "dream" trip rather than an actual trip?
For many Americans, it's a matter of time—or lack thereof. Most of us have heard that two weeks just isn't long enough to give a continent, which is approximately the same size as the United States, a thorough look.
While that is true, it's also true that you can get a good taste of Australia in a two-week vacation.
Which leads to the next question: What should you
see and do if you only have two weeks?
Most first-time visitors are advised to take the well-traveled triangle of Sydney—the Red Center—Cairns. While it's definitely a clichéd tourist track, it's nonetheless an excellent primer for those with only two weeks, and
provides a good sampling of Australia's urban, Outback, tropic and ocean experiences.
Using the triangle as a mere starting point, the following three categories —1. Publicized, And Worth It,
2. Lesser Known Worthies, 3. Quirky/Unusual Items—are individually applied to Sydney, The Red Center and Cairns. At the end of the article is an additional small section, A Few Ideas for Repeat Visitors.
Sydney
Simply put, this is one of the most beautiful cities in the world. Draped over numerous picturesque bays, quiet inlets and secluded coves, Sydney is a walkable city made more so by abundant taxis, a good network of buses, trains and ferries, and various transportation passes that can be bought. Skip Bondi Beach—an over—promoted and over-rated beach that's easily surpassed by nearby, and easier to reach, Manly Beach.
Publicized, And Worth It
Shopping—The elegant 1890s Queen Victoria Building (known as the QVB) in the heart of Sydney is a full city-block and three levels of upscale shops, boutiques and cafes. The Rocks Market (Sat. and Sun.) in the oldest part of the city, and Paddington Market (Sat. only) in an inner city suburb, are two worthwhile outdoor markets with plenty of local craft stalls.
Harbor Ferries at Circular Quay—Numerous and varied boats offer commentary tours of the extensive harbor. For a locals experience, take the ferry from the Quay to Manly, a seaside resort on the North Head of the harbor's entrance. The ride gives passengers a true sense of the harbor's size and beauty. Take a traditional slower ferry (with outside seating) one way, and a faster Jet Cat (all inside seats) the other. Manly has good beaches, shopping and cafes.
The Opera House—This magnificent structure is so photogenic it has no bad side. For inside views there are guided tours, or take in a show-last-minute tickets can be available.
Lesser Known Worthies
The Pylon Bridge Museum—A small door in the southeast pylon of Sydney harbor bridge leads to an interesting museum. Atop the pylon is an observation deck with stellar views of the city, harbor and Opera House. For the fearless, there's a walk over the bridge.
"Wilderness" trails in the City—Sydney Harbor National Park is a conglomerate of harborside parcels of land, many of which have trails that range from urban promenades to wilderness paths. Ask for recommendations at the visitors center in Cadman's Cottage at the Rocks.
Quirky/Unusual Items
Aboriginal tours—In a city little known for aboriginal experiences, Sydney Aboriginal Discoveries offers harbor cruises, half- and full-day land tours, and camping trips that help visitors see the city through the eyes of Australia's indigenous people. Website at: easy.com.au/stone/abtours.
Quarantine Station "Ghost" Tour—A "chilling" evening tour of the old Quarantine Station, which sits on the tip of North Head near Manly.
The Red Center
Situated in almost the geographic center of the continent, and set within a fiery desert of red soil and cobalt blue skies, the Red Center is a term loosely encompassing the town of Alice Springs and the giant monolith, Ayers Rock (known by the Aboriginal name Uluru), which is 280 miles southwest of Alice. Most visitors come and go via airplane (airports at Alice and Uluru), although a famous alternative is the two-day Ghan train, which runs between Alice and Adelaide. Getting around the Red Center can be done by self-drive or on guided tours.
Publicized, And Worth It
Alice Springs' Telegraph Station—This is a beautiful area of restored pioneer buildings, large shade trees, and fascinating displays of early settlement and Aboriginal history.
Uluru—The largest rock monolith in the world rises from the flat desert floor as starkly as a giant's headstone. The Aboriginals consider Uluru a sacred site and ask that you don't climb to the top. While most still do, those who walk around the rock find a much greater visual experience. The base of Uluru has been protected from development by the establishment of Ayers Rock Resort, an accommodation center (with varying types) a few miles from the rock.
Lesser Known Worthies
The Olgas—Only a few miles from Uluru, the Olgas, or Kata Tjuta, are a group of 36 giant rock domes that are as impressive as Uluru and have some good hiking trails.
Kings Canyon—Located on a dirt road four hours from Alice Springs, Kings Canyon is a kind of mini-Grand Canyon with a great hiking trail that skirts the sheer-faced rim.
Quirky/Unusual Items
Ewaninga Rock Carvings—Twenty-five miles southeast of Alice Springs, the flat desert is broken by a ring of rock outcroppings looking like tired old giants hunched around a fire. Scattered among the outcroppings are well-preserved works of ancient artists.
Palm Valley—One hundred miles southwest of Alice is the remnant of a prehistoric rainforest. The valley can be reached via guided tour from Alice or self-guided 4WD trek.
Cairns
In the far northeast of Queensland is the tropical town of Cairns, the jumping off point for experiencing Australia's wonderful surf-and-turf combo—the incredible, 1,200 mile-long Great Barrier Reef, and the mainland's lush rainforest. Two important points: the Reef is not right off shore, it takes a couple of hours boat ride to reach; and, Cairns does not have a beach.
Publicized, And Worth It
Great Barrier Reef, Day Trips—Choices for reaching the reef range from huge 325-passenger catamarans, and 150-passenger sailboats, to 20-passenger snorkel and/or dive boats. The largest vessels are crowded with international tourists but are well organized, comfortable, offer coral viewing for non-swimmers, and are best for those concerned about seasickness; the smallest vessels can be Spartan in comfort and are more prone to ocean movement, but offer a more intimate experience with Aussies (crew and fellow passengers).
Great Barrier Reef, Islands—Dangling between the mainland and the reef like a string of jade pearls are a handful of islands that offer everything from camping to luxury resorts. Each island has a unique flavor and style (and corresponding price). Recommended: Dunk Island for families; Lizard and Bedarra for lavish (and expensive) pampering.
Rainforest—North of Cairns is Australia's largest virgin rainforest, contained in Daintree National Park and Cape Tribulation National Park. Established tours run from Cairns and Port Douglas into the forest, or you can do self-exploration on a newly paved road.
Triangle Day Trip—Start with a ride on the charming 1880s Kuranda Train, which climbs through the jungle and up onto the Atherton Tablelands, before pulling into the small but bustling town of Kuranda, where there is a huge open-air market every day. The return trip can be by bus, the train, or aboard the Skyrail Rainforest Cableway, reportedly the world's longest gondola cableway, which skims across the rainforest's canopy, dropping down to the jungle floor twice so visitors can get a closer look. At the end of the Skyrail is the Tjapukai Aboriginal Cultural Park, home to Australia's finest Aboriginal dance troupe and interpretative center.
Lesser Known Worthies
Port Douglas—Forty-four miles north of Cairns, this fishing village has become a haven for tourists because of its white sand beaches, full-service resorts and gaggle of snorkel/dive boats.
Green Island—Because Cairns has no beach, and Green Island is only a short ferry ride away, it has become the day-trip mecca for beach lovers. The island has a shopping and food area for day trippers, and a luxury resort for those who want to spend a few nights.
Quirky/Unusual Items
Undara Lava Tubes—Cairns is not known for Outback experiences, but a fascinating three day tour (run by Undara Experience) leaves from the city and includes hiking into giant lava tubes, a stay in a 58-people Outback town, and a ride on a two-car Outback train. n
Since 1988 Jeff Miller has traveled extensively in Australia and lived there for two years. He is editor of EnCompass.
A Few Ideas for Repeat Visitors
Melbourne—Australia's other great city has a distinctively European feel with elegant stone buildings, wide, leafy boulevards, a broad, lazy river, and picturesque trams.
The Indian-Pacific train is an epic, three-night, Sydney-Perth, continent-crossing journey that's worth it for the scenery and for the number of Aussies on aboard.
The Great Ocean Road southwest of Melbourne rivals California's Route 1 for beauty.
Islands Beyond The Great Barrier Reef: Kangaroo Island, south of Adelaide, for wildlife; Lord Howe Island, east of Sydney, for scenic beauty, total relaxation and good snorkeling; and Norfolk Island, east of Lord Howe, for scenic beauty, laid back charm, and historic interest.
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Planning Your Trip
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Remember the seasons are reversed: Australia's winter is our summer; its summer is our winter. And just like America, Australia is a year-round destination where you can find whatever climate you like when you like.
When it comes to the "Outback," be aware that it is not a pinpoint on a map. Because Australia is the driest continent on Earth, and because only approximately 10 percent of its land (a thin band around the coast) can support humans, the Outback starts
about 250 miles inland from
any coastal point.
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