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The AAA Companion

Destination Spotlight

Leadville in winter? You bet!

By Linda DuVal

Don't be daunted by a winter's drive to Leadville, which sits at 10,000 feet and is the highest incorporated town in North America . Yes, it gets plenty of snow. But there's paydirt to be found by visitors to this historic mining town.

Leadville, which almost died several times but has enjoyed a revival in recent years, was once the second largest city in Colorado , with 30,000 residents. Yes, really.

Silver and other minerals brought miners and entrepreneurs to this high valley in the 1880s. Famous stories include that of the young Elizabeth “Baby Doe” Tabor.

Check out the Heritage Center (a Carnegie library building) for a look at the town's rollercoaster history. The center also has an exhibit on the famous 10th Mountain Division, a troop of mountain-trained World War II soldiers.

Leadville was a wild town in its day. The legendary Doc Holliday shot his last man here, and spent time in jail until he was finally acquitted. Today, the store, Doc Holliday's, on Main Street tells his story and sells everything from cowboy belt buckles to fudge.

To learn more about mining—even if you think you aren't interested in the subject—check out the amazing National Mining Hall of Fame & Museum. You'll be fascinated for hours.

If you're into winter sports, consider a trip to nearby Ski Cooper. This is no glitzy resort, but it is family friendly, affordable and offers downhill and cross-country skiing, snowboarding and snowshoeing.

Too strenuous for you? Rent a snowmobile for a different kind of exploration.

A handful of affordable accommodations, from the historic old Delaware Hotel to Victorian bed-and-breakfasts, offer a wide variety of places to stay.

Of course, no visit to town would be complete without a stop at Western Hardware—more an antiques mall these days. You can find everything from real artifacts from Leadville's boom days to antique skis and snowshoes.

On Feb. 12, there will be the seventh annual Leadville Wine Tasting at the National Mining Hall of Fame and Museum. And in March, catch the town's annual ski-joring festival, where skiers are towed by horses through an obstacle course on the main street.

For information on Leadville, call 719-486-3900.

Eat•Shop•Stay
Where there's charm to burn and waterfalls of molten chocolate

Well-known and worth it

You might not think of visiting a guest ranch in winter, but many of Colorado 's popular ranches are open now with a full slate of snow fun. The prestigious Home Ranch near Steamboat Springs, for example, offers snowshoeing, cross-country and telemark skiing, plus sleigh rides—perfect activities for working up an appetite for their gourmet meals. And in winter, you can stay for just two nights if you wish, rather than a whole week. 970-879-1780.

Denver 's new Table 6 restaurant is quickly gaining national recognition as a fine place to dine. It recently was named one of America 's best new restaurants by Esquire magazine's restaurant critic, John Mariani, who said it has “charm to burn.” Innovative dishes such as apple-brined beef brisket with toasted pecan and bleu-cheese mashed potatoes thrust this moderately priced neighborhood eatery into the big leagues. 303-831-8800.

Lesser-known gems

It's not open until February, but already the St. Julien Hotel & Spa is the talk of Boulder . And why not? It's the first new hotel to open in downtown Boulder in nearly 100 years. The 200-room luxury hotel will have a 10,000-square-foot spa and fitness center. It's already a member of Preferred Hotels & Resorts Worldwide. General Manager David Lurie considers himself a “foodie,” so expect great things from the hotel's restaurants, too. 720-406-9696.

You need the perfect piece of art to hang over your mantel, but where do you begin to shop? The Golden Triangle Arts District in downtown Denver has some good places to start. How do you find them? It's easy. First Friday Night Art Tours (a program sponsored by the area's galleries) lets shoppers park once, then ride a shuttle between 14 different galleries. Many serve refreshments. 303-534-0771.

Something different

Bundle up! Then get on a horse-drawn sleigh at Buck's Livery at Durango Mountain Resort for an hour's ride through a wintry wonderland before dining at a rustic cabin. Chow down on steak, chicken, beans, potatoes, coleslaw and hot sourdough bread in front of a crackling fire. (Vegetarian options are available.) There are two seatings nightly through March, or as long as there's snow. 970-385-2110.

For 100 years, Patsy's of Colorado Springs has been making not only Valentine's Day, but every day, special with its own recipes for chocolates and salt water taffy. People come from all over the country to take a tour to watch all those delectable chocolates being made. Waterfalls of molten chocolate and tubs of warm taffy will make your mouth water. But don't go away hungry! The factory, on South Eighth Street , sells its full array of confections, singly or in gift baskets.

866-3-PATSYS (866-372-8797).

See & Do
See fish-sicles, a gathering of eagles and catapulted confections

Well-known and worth it

Dig out your cowboy hat and saddle up the old Mustang or Bronco, then head out to the 99th annual National Western Stock Show in Denver , Jan. 8–22. This is one of the nation's largest rodeos and includes a market of goods that represent everything Western, from handmade saddles to Native American jewelry. More than 15,000 animals and 22 rodeo performances prove fascinating fare for greenhorns and old hands alike. Events also include horse shows and concerts. 888-551-5004.

Looking for some beach time? Great Sand Dunes National Monument has become Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve. On a sunny winter's day, it's a great spot for a hike to the top of a sand dune to marvel at nature's sense of humor. Where else can you find 30 square miles of 750-foot-high sand dunes surrounded by 13,000-foot mountain peaks? It flanks the Sangre de Cristo mountains just northeast of Alamosa, at the head of the San Luis Valley . 719-378-6300 or 719-378-6399.

Lesser-known gems

Skiers will appreciate the Colorado Ski Museum & Ski Hall of Fame in downtown Vail. But no one should miss the fascinating video there on the 10th Mountain Division, a uniquely trained cadre of soldiers who helped end World War II. The PBS-quality documentary will take only an hour or so out of your day, and will inspire an appreciation for what these men accomplished. 800-950-7410.

A gathering of eagles will draw bird-watchers to North Sterling State Park this winter. Annually, dozens of bald eagles stop by late in February to dine on fish-sicles (dead fish that begin to surface as the reservoir thaws). They depart when the first boats hit the water in the spring. If you haven't been to the park in a while, marvel at the $7 million in improvements that include trails, facilities, picnic areas and a swimming beach (when the weather gets a bit warmer). 970-522-3657.

Something different

Got fruitcake? Toss it. Toss it far enough and win a prize at the 10th annual Fruitcake Toss in Manitou Springs, Jan. 8, in Memorial Park. There are hand-tossed, catapulted and otherwise hurled confections. Last year's winner went 259.6 feet! Also check out the oldest fruitcake (the same one has won eight years in a row), most glamorous fruitcake and most creative use of fruitcake. Let your imagination be your guide. Or, if you already ate your cake, just go watch the fun. 719-685-5089 or 800-642-2567.

Rock climbers don't have to take the winter off. They can go ice climbing at the Ouray Ice Park in Uncompahgre Gorge. Even newbies are welcome to try climbing the 80- to 100-foot high manmade ice falls. If that sounds too scary for you, just go for the Ouray Ice Festival, Jan. 14–16, and watch climbers from all over the world. 970-325-7222.

About This Section

Colorado is a gold mine of intriguing places and things to see and do. With Colorado Explorer, we highlight some of the well-known but we also dig deeper—to present unique and lesser-known ideas to AAA members.

Readers may notice that Colorado Explorer is free of advertising and does not include AAA Diamond ratings with the hotels and restaurants mentioned, nor identify which attractions are AAA Gems. What's featured in this section is not related to advertising or promotion—just great ideas from people who know and love this state.

Linda DuVal is a freelance writer and former travel editor of The Gazette in Colorado Springs .