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Colorado Explorer

Destination Spotlight

San Luis—A Spiritual Experience

Spring tiptoes into the San Luis Valley earlier than some parts of Colorado, misting the trees with green while the snow is still melting elsewhere.

Spring is the perfect season to visit San Luis, the oldest town in Colorado. Established in 1851 by Hispanic settlers, the tiny town remains mostly Hispanic—even with its own dialect of Spanish.

Christians looking toward Easter come here to see the famous Stations of the Cross. Local sculptor Huberto Maestas created the trail of stunning bronze statues that ascends the mesa overlooking town. During Lent, the 15th statue, representing the resurrection of Christ, is covered with a cloth, which is removed on Easter Sunday.

Locals credit the idea to the Rev. Patrick Valdez, parish priest for San Luis' Sangre de Cristo church (built in 1886). If you want to meet the artist, his studio is just across the street from the trailhead where the stations begin.

Appropriately, many visitors who come to see the stations stay at El Convento, a former convent that now serves as an historic bed-and-breakfast inn. Rooms are clean and airy; breakfasts are substantial; and the sound of church bells will be your alarm clock.

A well-kept secret in town is the San Luis Museum and Cultural Center, which not only delineates the town's rich history, but also features Hispanic religious art and the works of local artists.

Do a little shopping at the R&R Market, Colorado's oldest established business. It's been in the Romero family for 144 years and sells a variety of goods.

No visit to San Luis would be complete without a stop at Emma's Hacienda, where the Mexican food is so good, people drive out of their way to have lunch or dinner there. It's not fancy, but you won't go away hungry.

While you're in the area, visit the nearby town of Manassa, birthplace of world heavyweight boxing champion Jack Dempsey. The museum in his honor is housed in the cabin he called home before he became famous as “the Manassa Mauler.”

Check with the San Luis Visitors Center for advice on places to hike, camp, fish or picnic. They also can direct you to historic sites, including what may be the oldest church in Colorado, Our Lady of Guadalupe, in the nearby town of Conejos.

In all, your visit to San Luis will be quiet, laid-back and maybe a spiritual experience.

For information on San Luis, call the visitors center at 719-672-3002 or the San Luis Town Hall, 719-672-3321.

Eat•Shop•Stay

From hunters' feasts to bargain hunting

Well-known and worth it

The Cliff House in Manitou Springs has been winning awards since its renovation was completed in 1997. The latest honor comes from Wine Spectator magazine, which has bestowed its “Award of Excellence,” on the historic hotel's restaurant. Diners can indulge in “nouveau Continental” cuisine prepared with Colorado ingredients (try the lamb). And there are more than 700 wines (yes, really) from which to choose. 719-685-3000 or 888-212-7000.

Denver 's upscale Cherry Creek North shopping district has come up with a new way to please shoppers: free wireless Internet access, available at 320 merchants. Passwords are required, but they're free for the asking. 303-394-2903.

Lesser known gems

Chaps Grill & Chophouse in the Vail Cascade Resort and Spa turns wild game into haute cuisine. Besides an interior that can only be described as rustic elegance, the food is so pretty, you almost hate to take a bite. But dig in, because it's excellent. The house signature dish is the Colorado Trio: elk, lamb and venison, each prepared in its own special way to create three tasty delights for meat lovers. Reservations recommended. 970-479-7014.

Planning a really small wedding? Check out the historic Plains Hotel in Cheyenne Wells, if you happen to like the peace and quiet of eastern Colorado. Built in 1919, the period architecture includes transom windows, a hand-tooled banister on the broad staircase, and claw-foot tubs. But it's also updated with modern amenities—if you get tired of sitting in the parlor. The seven guest rooms, all of which go for less than $100, include a candlelight breakfast. Considered a romantic getaway, it can accommodate up to 12 people in its own wedding chapel next door. 719-767-5550.

Something different

Usually, hotel guests look to the concierge to make dinner reservations or secure tickets to a concert or play. But at the Outlook Hotel in Boulder , the concierge is more likely to have detailed information on the great outdoors. The hotel, remodeled recently, focuses on Boulder 's outdoor culture. They'll help you figure out where to rent a bike, take a hike, climb or ski a mountain, raft a river, ride a horse and much more. 303-443-3322 or 800-542-0304.

Looking for a bargain on skis, snowshoes, snowboards or winter sportswear? Spring is often the best time to buy, when stores are clearing out their inventories. Check out ski shops in resort towns such as Aspen, Snowmass, Keystone, Breckenridge, Winter Park and Vail—all just dying to sell you the season's remainders at bargain prices. And don't forget Summit County's sure cure for the shopaholic, the Silverthorne Factory Stores. 970-468-5780.

Meet a giant, flush away winter, dance with chickens

Well-known and worth it

Tired of winter? Take an African safari at the Cheyenne Mountain Zoo in Colorado Springs. The latest addition, the African Rift Valley exhibit, will transport you to a warmer place. The gentle giants from the zoo's successful giraffe breeding program will greet you with their oddly sweet faces and curling tongues—looking for a treat, which you can buy and feed them. Be sure to stop to admire the new Colobus monkey exhibit, as well as the comical meerkats who burrow here. 719-636-2544.

Boogie on over to Greeley, April 21-23, for the Greeley Jazz Festival, the nation's largest event of its kind, hosted by the University of Northern Colorado. The 7,000 or so attendees include internationally famous musicians and singers, clinicians and teachers, plus jazz bands from schools all over the country. It's a toe-tappin' time for everyone. Get a full schedule of events at www.uncjazz.com or call the ticket office at 800-315-2787.

Lesser known gems

If spring is near, it must be time for Flauschink! Yes, time to flush out winter and welcome spring in Crested Butte. The 36th annual “flushing” celebration, an eastern European tradition, marks the end of ski season. This year, it's April 8–10. They'll crown a king and queen and dance at a polka ball on Friday night. On Saturday there'll be a parade, “with at least three floats,” and assorted entertainment. The carnival atmosphere, live music and ski movies run all weekend. 800-814-8893.

If you appreciate native culture, you need to see the Colorado Historical Society's new exhibit, “Ancient Voices: Stories of Colorado's Distant Past.” The exhibit presents a fascinating picture of Colorado 's paleo-Indians, who lived 8,000 years ago. Native American author, poet and artist N. Scott Momaday narrates the introduction to the exhibit and Grammy-winning composer Tom Wasinger has created an evocative soundtrack. 303-866-3682.

Something different

Think you're a hotshot on skis? Then check out the annual Elk Mountains Grand Traverse. It begins at midnight on April 1, when 120 teams of two skiers leave Crested Butte and test their backcountry skiing skills across 40 miles of wilderness and two passes before they reach Aspen Mountain (and a big welcome party) the next day. If you can't get in on this year's action, you can always start training for next year! 970-349-7133.

Next time there's a mild spring day, consider taking a hike in the Comanche National Grassland of southeastern Colorado. Bird-lovers flock here every year to watch the mating dance of the lesser prairie chicken, and see the other migratory birds which arrive each spring. Pick up a map at the Springfield ranger station and follow directions to Picture Canyon, where ancient rock art depicts what looks like a visitor from outer space. Hike the canyons, watching for the abundant wildlife. You may be the only person there. 719-523-6591.

Linda DuVal is a freelance writer and former travel editor of The Gazette in Colorado Springs.