EnCompass®
The AAA Companion

Feature Story

Houseboating the West

Navajo Lake

"You feel mighty free and easy and comfortable on a raft.”
The Adventures of Huckleberry Finn

If Huck Finn and Tom Sawyer were alive today they'd be houseboating. Those two consummate floaters would be amazed at how modern technology has converted homemade rafts into palatial barges, while not touching the idyllic peace and relaxation found in floating down a river or across a lake.

But Huck and Tom would probably need a new place to drift—the Mississippi is busier than it used to be. They should try these three special places in the West:

• Lake Powell, Utah—The well-known houseboating mecca has even more appeal now that water levels are at record lows.

• Flaming Gorge, Utah/Wyoming—This lesser-known gem burns nearly as bright.

• Navajo Lake, New Mexico—An uncrowded beauty that deserves a visit.

At these watery destinations, the sun streaks canyon walls with soft pastels and earthy hues. Buttes and mesas, cliffs and ledges are bookended by a cobalt blue sky and dark blue waters. And from the stern deck of a houseboat, the traveler can marvel at this rare chance to view the dramatic scenery of the West—from the water.

Drought's delight
With Lake Powell's water at record low levels, boaters can now view sights not seen for more than 30 years.

By Dan Leeth

The transformation began in 1963. Diversion tunnels closed and the Colorado River began flooding sandstone gorges near the Arizona-Utah border. Glen Canyon, a place few knew, became Lake Powell, a houseboater's haven.

Although the reservoir offered boaters aquatic access to the blushing cliffs of canyon country, many of the area's grandest features lay seemingly drowned forever beneath their wakes.

But times have changed. Drought has dropped Lake Powell more than 130 feet, giving boaters what may be a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to see sights unseen since the '60s.

“People think they know Lake Powell because they've been coming here for 25 years, but they have never seen it at this level,” says Steve Ward of Lake Powell Resorts. “It's been quite an eye opener.”

Natural arches and bridges have emerged from the depths, once again offering rock-rimmed portals into a blue sky. Some pierce plummeting precipices while others arc straight from water's edge.

Weathering pits, which graced canyon-top mesas before the dam, are again seeing sunlight. These pothole depressions can stretch 125 feet across and plunge more than 50 feet deep. Topped with sun-warmed water from the receding lake, they make great soaking pools.

The calcium carbonate bathtub ring around the lake (sign of a dropping waterline) is disappearing as ruddy runoff re-stains cliffs and constant erosion wears the whitewash from less vertical surfaces.

Freshly exposed domes poke from the lake like bald noggins in a sea of blue. Jutting fins that once defined a canyon's meander now breach the surface, turning high-water bays into sinuous waterways. These obstacles, away from the main channel, can cause problems for the unwary. First-timers, for whom everything is new, should have no problems, but veteran houseboaters who think they know the area must exercise caution.

The lower waterline has also increased the number of beaches, many of which are newly formed and remain clean and unchoked by vegetation.

For those wanting to land a whopper, the diminished reservoir lures anglers with some of the best fishing in its history. “Fill a bathtub with water, stuff it full of fish, then drain it halfway down. It just condenses the fish,” points out Mike Stickler, owner of Stix Bait and Tackle in Page, Ariz.

If you're content to let Mrs. Paul furnish dinner, Lake Powell offers endless opportunities to explore side canyons with a kayak or motorboat. Every inlet, notch, slot or arm holds something new. Some canyons twist like a drunken sidewinder, progressively narrowing until enclosing walls shut out all but a sliver of sky. With 13 stories of additional depth, these cool and unworldly slots can feel like the lair of Gollum from Lord of the Rings.

At each canyon's end, boaters can either turn around or take a hike. A favorite foot destination is Rainbow Bridge, world's largest sandstone span. Not long ago, water lapped beneath this towering ring of rust-colored rock, and a floating dock stood within eyesight. Now, it's a pleasant 1.5 mile stroll. Walking the trail, hikers can savor the region's remoteness, feel the desert aura and appreciate why this spot is sacred to the native Navajo.

Of all that the drought has revealed, the re-emergence of side-stream grottos may be the most exciting. Inside these grottos, before the creation of the lake, sunlight once reflected from towering cliffs, maidenhair ferns clung to sandstone seeps and streams danced down pour-offs. Few were grander than Cathedral in the Desert, where a 60-foot waterfall splashed through a bell-shaped chamber. Now, thanks to the lake's lower level, much of the cascade again stands above water. The ferns may be absent, but light again reflects from the walls and a clear canyon creek splatters over timeworn rock.

“This was the level those of us who were running tours wanted the water to stay. It had opened up some of the canyons and it hadn't ruined a lot of things,” says Joan Nevills Staveley, director of the Page-Lake Powell Chamber of Commerce.

How long Lake Powell remains at this level depends on weather patterns. Under normal conditions, the Bureau of Reclamation estimates it will take at least 12 years to refill, but locals remember when the water once rose 60 feet in just three months.

Slow or fast, when the water rises, one thing remains certain. Today's unveiled sights will once again be lost beneath the wakes.

Dan Leeth is an award-winning photographer/writer from Aurora who regularly writes for EnCompass.

Fiery gem at Flaming Gorge
Towering cliffs, multi-colored gorges and pine-covered hideaways set this apart from other houseboating destinations.

The t-shirt says it all: “This is not Lake Powell.”

Worn proudly by a mechanic for Lucerne Valley Marina, the sentiment is shared by nearly everyone involved with Utah's Flaming Gorge National Recreation Area—from the district ranger to the waitresses at the café in tiny Manila. They feel that while Lake Powell gets all the press, Flaming Gorge quietly harbors comparable beauty—and a lot more.

Straddling the southwestern corner of Wyoming and the northeastern tip of Utah (400 miles northwest of Denver), Flaming Gorge was etched from the Uinta Mountains by the Green River. Today the 91-mile-long reservoir of deep blue water snakes through sharp canyons and multi-colored gorges, offering 350 miles of rugged shoreline. The recreation area boasts 600 camping and picnic units, two visitors centers, two lodges, a historic ranch, nine boat ramps, three marinas, two river access sites, a 502-foot high dam, and 24 hiking trails ranging from a half-mile jaunt to a 15-mile trek.

The drive to Flaming Gorge is nearly as spectacular as the destination. Route 191 climbs more than 3,000 feet as it dips and sways like a baby bird learning to fly, and is considered one of the most scenic byways in the West. Soon after leaving Vernal, Utah (the closest town), the black asphalt cuts dramatically through cream-colored sandstone canyons. Later, Route 191 combines with Route 44 to follow the gorges of the lake's southern boundary.

Especially dramatic is Red Canyon overlook, where 1,300-foot cliffs are giant palettes streaked with multiple hues and colors.

A must for any visitor is the geological loop along Route 44. During this half-hour excursion, travelers view 600 million years of geological time. Towering cliffs crowd around the little road like excited relatives looking at a newborn. Here, prehistory seems to be living just around the corner.

Native Americans were the first to see such scenery. A thousand years ago, the Fremont people lived in the area and some of their artwork still remains. Later came Comanches, Shoshones and Utes. Frontiersmen hunting beaver followed, and in 1825 at nearby Henry's Fork they held the first mountain man rendezvous. At one point, Butch Cassidy and his gang took refuge in the area.

Today, hiking trails wander where Indians and trappers once trod. Visitors can take Little Hole National Recreation Trail, a 7.3-mile moderate walk that parallels the Green River from the dam to Little Hole. Another good hike is the gentle to moderate 5-mile Canyon Rim Trail, which can be accessed at four locations.

While fishing is the most popular sport here, it's the lake that draws people, just as when John Wesley Powell came down the Green River in 1869 and named it Flaming Gorge.

Today, boats of various types and sizes can be rented from the three marinas around the lake. At Lucerne Valley Marina, near Manila , houseboats are available.

Spending a night on the lake is nearly as easy as piloting a houseboat. Campgrounds accessible only by boat have been established—complete with docks, level tent pads, flush toilets, running water and a host who lives in a houseboat. There are even floating campgrounds—24-foot by 28-foot platforms anchored in protected coves—that can accommodate four large boats or six small ones.

Plotting a course on Flaming Gorge is at the renter's whim. North is the Wyoming end, with its stark desert of rolling, barren hills and lonely buttes. South is the dam and the canyon lands of hundreds of coves, inlets and channels.

Leisurely exploration of such places as Sheep Creek Canyon , Hideout Draw and Skull Creek bring stunning views. The softness of sandstone canyons melds into red rock, massive monoliths and sharp-toothed pinnacles.

Hundreds of feet above, a hawk glides on thermals looking for dinner as the setting sun sparks fires of color that rage across the cliffs.

When the houseboat engines are cut, the past whispers from every rock face and crevice, cave and overhang. It intermingles with reality to create late night dreams filled with the tread of moccasins, the banter of explorers and the jagged cries of mountain lions.

Flaming Gorge may not be a Lake Powell, but the visitors who have experienced its uniqueness are sure glad it's not.

—Jeff Miller

Houseboating in New Mexico?
No crowds and subtle beauty make this the perfect spot for those looking for off-the-beaten-trail destinations

Yes, it's true: you can houseboat in New Mexico—and with some easy piloting, houseboat into Colorado as well.

Tucked away in the northwest corner of New Mexico—335 miles southwest of Denver and less than 70 miles southeast of Durango — Navajo Lake is the gateway to New Mexico's Navajo State Park, with its substantial reservoir that stretches into Colorado and a marina that boasts houseboats.

Navajo State Park is comprised of three recreation areas. Pine River, the most developed area along the lake, includes a visitor center, developed campgrounds, a day-use area and a marina with houseboats. Sims Mesa is across the lake and includes a visitor center, developed campgrounds and another marina. The San Juan River area below the dam is world-renowned for excellent trout fishing and includes wheelchair-accessible fishing facilities on the river, seven day-use areas and several hiking trails.

Even with such land-based offerings, it's the reservoir that's the heart of the park. Straddling the New Mexico/Colorado border and stretching 35 miles to create 150 miles of wilderness shoreline, Navajo Lake offers numerous secluded canyons, coves and inlets for exploring, swimming and fishing.

Formed in 1962 by the damming of the San Juan, Piedra and Los Pinos rivers, Navajo Dam and Lake are operated by the Bureau of Reclamation and cover 15,000 acres. The lake is the second largest in New Mexico, with part of one arm extending into Colorado. That portion is part of Colorado's Navajo State Park (road access at Arboles), which boasts a small but well-done visitor center, developed campsites, hiking trails, a wildlife viewing area, an outdoor amphitheater and marina.

Getting on the lake in New Mexico takes only a stop at Navajo Lake Marina at the park's Pine River site (off NM 511). The marina boasts a general store, boat slips, fishing boats, ski boats and houseboats (ranging from 36-footers to 52-footers) for rent.

The marina staff gives all renters a thorough review of what the houseboat has to offer, as well as how to handle seven tons of metal that has no brakes. While some boating experience is helpful, operating a houseboat is easier than it sounds—when in doubt, go slow.

Once out on the lake, direction and pace are up to you. Close to the dam, rock canyons and jagged cliffs add dramatic tension to the landscape. Mysterious caves and crevices dot the hills, whispering of ancient Indian burial sites and midnight rituals. Further north, in the Colorado portion, hills of scrub pine, juniper and sagebrush slope into the emerald blue waters.

Navajo Lake—so named for the Navajo lands the reservoir irrigates—was once home to the Anasazi, Navajo and Pueblo who lived at various times along the banks of the three converging rivers. Today, the area is home to the Southern Ute Indian Reservation.

Drifting along on a houseboat, there's nothing to do but feel the sun on your face and watch the grisly stubble of scrub-covered slopes inch by. The wind carries the scent of pines and relaxation. You can putter in and out of the canyons, where the gnarled rocky cliffs are weathered faces that tell thousands of stories to those who can read them. Or you can tie up in a secluded cove to swim, fish, explore or just take a nap.

And to think, it's all on a lake—in New Mexico.

—Jeff Miller