EnCompass®
The AAA Companion

MiniTour

Soak away winter's chill
By Deborah Frazier

A trio of Colorado hot springs harkens back to a bygone era while soothing aching muscles.

Photo: Strawberry Park Hot Springs

Colorado's hundreds of hot springs have been well-known for thousands of years. The Arapahoe, Ute, Cheyenne and other tribes sought healing, strength and inspiration in the natural pools that formed around the springs. Later, miners and settlers enjoyed the restorative waters.

In the late 1800s, Colorado boasted a hot springs circuit that drew travelers from the northeastern states and Europe. Visitors would travel the state by horseback, wagon or stagecoach, “taking the waters” at one special spring for an extended time. The warm, soothing waters that bubbled up from deep within the earth were thought to be so therapeutic they could cure numerous ailments.

Today, many of those same hot springs still attract travelers—most of whom are merely looking for a peaceful, relaxing way of relieving aching muscles and stiff joints.

This month's Mini Tour—published during the transitional time between full-blown winter and budding spring—has been designed for winter-weary travelers looking to soothe away cares and buoy the spirit. It also harkens back to the late 1800s by visiting three of the direct descendants of Colorado's spa circuit: The Hot Sulphur Springs Resort and Spa, the Steamboat Springs Health and Recreation Association and Strawberry Park Hot Springs.

All three destinations are located between Granby and Steamboat Springs, along an 80-mile stretch of U.S. 40 that is a AAA-designated scenic byway.

Our tour starts in the pleasant, low-key town of Hot Sulphur Springs. In 1863, Rocky Mountain News founder William Byers envisioned creating a spectacular resort around the springs. His grandiose plans, complete with horse racing to attract the nation's elite, flopped due to the difficulty of reaching the area in those pre-railroad days. Today, fortunately, it isn't necessary to travel by horseback or stagecoach to reach your warm soak—although with Winter Park only 30 miles away, there are as many other thrills to be found in the area as Byers could have dreamed up.

The terraced pools at the Hot Sulphur Springs Resort are placed artfully on a hillside overlooking the Colorado River, and range between 95 and 112 degrees in temperature. Despite the name, the scent of sulphur is faint. The respite is divine. The variety of pools invite exploration as you wander from outdoor settings to cave pools, lie under a steaming waterfall in Ute Pool, or seclude yourself in the private Hillside Pool with its lockable gate. A cluster of kid-friendly pools with bathtub temperatures cater to families.

Ideally, you'll want to set aside three hours to experience Hot Sulphur Springs properly, but a quicker visit can be almost as relaxing. When you're done, stop in at the Pioneer Museum nearby before heading out of town.

Leaving Hot Sulphur Springs, U.S 40 leads you west through Kremmling before turning north. The scenic hour-and-a-half drive to Steamboat Springs runs through the Arapaho National Forest and over the Continental Divide at Rabbit Ears Pass.

In centuries past, the Yampatika Utes once camped in the area now known as Steamboat Springs. They considered the springs sacred and endured fierce rivalry for the site from other tribes. French trappers were the first Europeans to hear the “chug, chug” sound emitted by the bubbling waters. They rushed to see what they thought was a steamboat making its way up the Yampa River, but found only the hot springs. Construction in the early 1900s silenced the chugging of the “steamboat,” but the waters are still attracting visitors year-round.

The town produces a brochure that lays out a two-hour walking tour to see (not sample) seven unique springs around town. This loop trail is a great way to whet your appetite for getting wet.

While the first stop is Heart Spring, that should be kept for last so you can visit it as part of the Steamboat Springs Health and Recreation Association's pool complex.

Begin the walking tour at Iron Spring. Past generations swore by the results of drinking its water, although there's no tasting allowed now. Further on, a tall gazebo marks the location of the now-dry Soda Spring. Long before soda pop, locals used Soda Spring's 55-degree flow to make sparkling lemonade.

Other stops on the walk include Sulphur Spring, Black Sulphur Spring and Sulphur Cave Spring—all of which can be seen in small, trailside grottos that boast unique colors and vegetation. At Lithia Spring, the mineral that gives it a distinctive milky color was once used to make Lithium, an antidepressant. Lithia Spring isn't potent enough to shift a mood, but it is a nice stop. Also on the walking trail is the original Steamboat Spring that gave the town its name. Where the trail follows the river, vapor seeps from the rocks to mark smaller springs—some of the 150 in this area.

You've now swung back to the Steamboat Springs Health and Recreation Association, located downtown. Here you can try the three open-air soaking pools ranging from 98 to 103 degrees, an Olympic-size swimming pool maintained at 80 degrees, a waterslide and a large shallow play pool with toys for the youngsters. All the water comes from the overflow of the mineral-rich Heart Spring, which wells to the surface naturally at a rate of 150 gallons per minute.

After a thorough exploration of Steamboat Springs, it's time for a plunge into a completely different atmosphere. Seven miles up the road is Strawberry Park, a legend among hot-springs devotees for its ambience and natural beauty.

To get there, turn north onto 3rd St. (next to the Health and Recreation Association parking lot), right onto Fish Creek Falls Rd., left onto Amethyst and follow the signs. The last few miles are on a steep, winding gravel road that can be icy in winter and muddy in spring. Four-wheel drive and/or chains are mandatory on this road from November to May, and they're not kidding—the local sheriff imposes stiff fines on those who don't obey.

If you're concerned about the gravel road, all is not lost: two companies run shuttle services from Steamboat Springs (Strawberry Park Hot Springs Tours and Windwalker Tours). Using a shuttle is strongly recommended in winter and spring.

Regardless of how you get there, you'll be impressed with the setting. Nestled beside a stream, in a small canyon, Strawberry Park Hot Springs welcomes you with billowing mists rising off the steaming pools. A series of springs flood from the hillside at temperatures of approximately 150 degrees, flowing down to meet the cool waters of the creek. Here, beautiful masonry walls and five waterfalls divide the creek into three sandy-bottomed pools, while rustic-style gates control the water temperature in each pool. The largest and hottest pool is around 104 degrees. Children are welcome at Strawberry Park during the day; after dark, clothing is optional and all visitors must be over 18. Flashlights are recommended for night visitors.

Surprisingly, these lovely and tranquil springs have a boisterous past, from their reputation as a rowdy party spot in the ‘60s and ‘70s to a brief flirtation with a major hotel chain. There were a few rough years of transition, but the place has now been transformed into a thoughtfully managed retreat for seekers of calm and solace.

Whether you do a day trip and sample just one hot spring on this Mini Tour, or make it a long weekend that includes numerous soaks, you'll find that relaxing in hot springs can be a perfect way to wave goodbye to winter. Just lie back and watch the brilliant blue sky fade to star-studded night. Let the hot water embrace you as you watch the last snowflakes of winter flutter down, vanishing above your head as the steam from the pool melts them in mid-air.

Listen carefully; the warm voice of the springs is calling your name.

Deborah Frazier is a staff reporter for the Rocky Mountain News and is author of the book, Colorado 's Hot Springs .