Feature
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| Native Alaskan girl with sled-dog pups. ©Travel Alaska
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 Faces of Alaska
By Christine Loomis
There's a saying in Alaska: "Cut Alaska in half and Texas would be the third largest state." Fact is, Alaska is big. Big with a capital B. With nearly 600,000 square miles to explore, how can visitors choose what to see or do?
To start, don't try to do it all. You'll exhaust yourself and miss the chance to truly enjoy some places in depth. Whether you're searching for pre- or post-cruise options, or planning a full-on land vacation, prioritize possibilities and pare down choices.
To that end, here's my short list of cities, sights and activities that a first-time visitor to Alaska should consider.
Talkeetna
If your budget allows for only one airborne adventure, do it here, where bush pilots take tourists on the flight of a lifetime: soaring over Mt. McKinley 's vast frozen expanse of forbidding glaciers and gaping chasms. This isn't for the faint of heart. The planes climb 20,000 feet, with oxygen masks required (when asked if masks are really necessary, one pilot quipped, “only if you want to remember the trip”)—but the thrill is worth every heart-quickening moment.
Next stop, Talkeetna Roadhouse (907-733-1351, www.talkeetnaroadhouse.com), deservedly famous for fresh baked goods and hearty meals. There's frequently a line and it's a place that fosters conversation among strangers, so allow time.
The best land-based view of McKinley is at Native-owned Talkeetna Alaskan Lodge (877-777-2805), where guests wait on the back deck, cameras in hand, for the mythic peak to emerge from its nearly ever-present shroud of mist and cloud.
Denali National Park
I'm no fan of bus tours, but that's the only way most tourists can explore here—and the time flies when you're spotting moose after moose, grizzly after grizzly. Binoculars are a must, because wildlife, though plentiful, isn't always roadside. There's also rafting and horseback riding, both superior to the hokey, overpriced dinner theater you'll hear about. Or revel in Denali's awesome natural splendor far from the crowds by booking a stay, well in advance, at Camp Denali or North Face Lodge (907-683-2290, www.campdenali.com), backcountry lodging with naturalist-led activities, hiking, wildlife viewing and family programs.
Anchorage
There's another saying: “Anchorage is only 15 minutes from Alaska.” Okay, it's not wilderness, but it has much to offer. On summer weekends, vendors at the farmer's market at 3rd and E sell Mat-su Valley produce and (some) quality crafts. If you're searching for an ulu—the Native knife that may be the most useful kitchen tool you'll ever own—look for it here, rather than at the overpriced, touristy Ulu Factory. Downtown galleries (not the souvenir shops) also have ulus, fine jewelry and art.
Don't miss Anchorage Museum of History and Art (907-343-4326, www.anchoragemuseum.org), or the Alaska Native Heritage Center (907-330-8000) which interprets Native history through interactive demonstrations, workshops and exhibits, with a particularly family-friendly area of recreated villages.
For the scoop on wildlife and wild lands, visit Alaska Public Lands Information Center (907-271-2737), with its natural history exhibits—how big is a brown bear?—books, brochures and trip-planning info.
Venture to local eateries, including classy Orso (907-222-3282) and Snow Goose Restaurant (907-277-7727) where Sleeping Lady Ale, my favorite local beer, is brewed. Or create your own dish in cooking classes at Allen and Petersen Co. (907-276-0111 or 800-838-0111, www.aphome.com), which also has a fabulous kitchen shop and locally-made herb blends and rubs—try the Coho Mojo for that salmon you caught.
Alyeska/Girdwood
Alaska 's rough-and-tumble character meets luxury at Alyeska Prince Hotel (800-880-3880, www.alyeskaresort.com) in Girdwood. Make no mistake, this is a base for outdoor adventure—including hiking the top of Mt. Alyeska—but at day's end you can soak in a hot tub and slip into a sinfully comfortable bed.
Few eateries match the view of Seven Glaciers at the top of the tram, but Girdwood's Double Musky Inn (907-783-2822, www.doublemuskyinn.com) is a New Orleans-style steak and seafood restaurant that regularly inspires folks to drive 45 minutes from Anchorage for a meal. If owner Bob Persons is around, he might tell you stories of how his friend Paul Prudhomme taught him the restaurant business or, perhaps, about his cousin Truman Capote. The real highlight, though, is the menu and sophisticated wine list.
Kenai Peninsula
Come summer, the Kenai River is swarming with salmon and trout, and in the depths of Cook Inlet, gargantuan halibut hover. For the quintessential fishing experience, call Reubin Payne of Widespread Fishing (877-930-2932, www.widespreadfishing.com), a gifted guide with enviable expertise and enough tall tales to keep you amused if the fish aren't biting.
Soldotna, bordering Kenai National Wildlife Refuge, is a central base for explorations. Klondike RV Park & Cabins (907-262-6035, www.klondikecabins.com) has full-hookup sites and three log cabins, and you won't find a better breakfast than that served to guests at Kenai River Raven B&B (907-262-5818, www.KenaiRiverRaven.com). Centennial Park offers several miles of shady walking paths from which to spot moose and watch anglers. Join locals at Mykels (907-262-4305, www.mykels.com) for fresh seafood and blackened prime rib bites served with pints of Sleeping Lady ale. Traveling to or from the Kenai, stop in Cooper Landing at Sunrise Café for homemade buffalo chili.
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Prince William Sound
©Maxine Cass
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Whittier/Prince William Sound
I've heard cruise passengers say, “There's nothing to do in Whittier” as they board buses to elsewhere, but they're dead wrong. Kayaking Blackstone Bay with Alaska Sea Kayakers (907-472-2534, 877-472-2534, www.alaskaseakayakers.com) is nothing short of spectacular. No expertise is required. During the all-day trip, kayakers witness the awesome power of calving glaciers and spot plenty of wildlife—but rarely other humans. Lunch is set out on a rocky shore in the midst of a landscape that humbles and quiets the soul.
Seward
The coastal hamlet of Seward is the southern terminus of Alaska Railroad and the gateway to Kenai Fjords National Park. All visitors take a day cruise to the park, and should. But equally interesting is the Seavey kennels. This three-generation Iditarod family gives visitors a taste of mushing on summer sleds, a lively presentation on the perils of the 1,150-mile race and a chance to cuddle sled dog pups. Their “IdidaRide” Tours (907-224-8607 or 800-478-3139, www.ididaride.com) can be combined with other Seward activities. Staying over? Book full-service Seward Windsong Lodge (907-224-7116).
Kodiak Island
It's more than bears. Sit down at Mill Bay Coffee & Pastries (907-486-4411, www.millbaycoffee.com) and you're at the table of a French chef who once made pastries for Charles De Gaulle. Savor the salmon burger on toasted brioche.
Kodiak is Alaska's undiscovered gem for kayakers, and Andy Schroeder of Orcas Unlimited Charters (907-481-1121) is happy to share the secluded bays and waters he loves. The scenery and paddling are enough, Schroeder's contagious enthusiasm the bonus.
Kodiak's harbors are nothing if not picturesque. Grab a coffee and pastry at Harborside Coffee and watch boat crews at work—more than 60 million pounds of seafood are shipped out of Kodiak yearly—or take a dinner cruise with Galley Gourmet (907-486-5079 or 800-253-6331) for close-up views of lounging sea lions, eagles and kittiwakes.
Fort Abercrombie State Historic Park offers an urban wilderness network of trails that beckon hikers late into the evening when the moss-draped forests and bluffs are bathed in an otherworldly light. Or rent a car and follow mostly paved roads to Chiniak, which some claim has the most glorious sunsets of all.
Alaska Railroad
While the rest of the nation has largely forgotten the romance of rail travel, Alaska has embraced it. There's an old-fashioned appeal to watching the landscape slip past your window, and riding Alaska Railroad (907-265-2494, 800-544-0552, www.alaskarailroad.com) should be at the top of your to-do list.
That's still too much for one visit. But once you experience the powerful northern landscape, watch brown bear and moose ambling along shorelines, discover the rich cultures and taste the extraordinary bounty that fills Alaskan tables, you will be back.
For more resources and information, go to www.travelalaska.com.
Christine Loomis is a freelance writer who lives in Lafayette, Colo.
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