July | August 2006 Volume 80 Issue 4 |
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Colorado Explorer By Linda DuVal You won't see any little cartoon kids here. TV's “South Park” bears little resemblance to the real place in Colorado's central Rockies. But if you visit, you'll get an insight into the state's fascinating mining history amid vast natural beauty. Fairplay, the largest town in the valley of South Park, has a few shops and restaurants, and you can stay at the historic and recently renovated Fairplay Hotel. The hotel restaurant is popular for its home-style food. For Mexican dishes, try the Brown Burro. And yes, Fairplay has its own little upscale bistro, the Front Street Café. Be sure to visit South Park City, a museum with an amazing collection of historic buildings relocated from around the valley. It's a trip back to Victorian times—more tough than genteel. Stop at the South Park Ranger District station on the east edge of town to get maps, information and directions to two other nearby attractions: the semi-ghost town of Como (about 35 residents) and the Bristlecone Pine Scenic Area above the nearby town of Alma. Margaret Barnes, an employee at the ranger station, lives in Como and can tell you all about it. “Stop in at the Como Depot,” she suggests. “The food is good, both the Mexican food and the prime rib. They really know how to do prime rib.” The bristlecone pine area is a more challenging attraction, but well worth the effort. It features one of the oldest stands of trees in the world. These gnarled and twisted evergreens create a fanciful landscape carved by natural forces—especially wind. Unless you have a high-clearance vehicle, you'll need to park half a mile from the site, then hike the rest of the way. Bring a camera! And don't be surprised to find a few Clark's Nutcracker birds begging for treats. Gary Nichols, director of tourism for Park County, recommends the drive tour brochures available from the forest service office. “They're perfect for people who want to see stuff but don't necessarily want to get out and hike,” he says. You might also want to take along your fishing gear. In Park County , you can arrange to go fly-fishing in private trout streams. Check out www.southparktrout.com for details. Or see the area as the first visitors did—on horseback—at the American Safari Ranch between Fairplay and Como, www.americansafariranch.com. Maybe plan your visit to coincide with Burro Days, July 29 and 30, and linger to watch the annual “world championship” pack burro races. Whatever you choose to do in the area, remember the altitude: It's nearly 10,000 feet in Fairplay, and higher on some of the drives. Take time to smell the wildflowers. For information on visiting the South Park area, contact the South Park Ranger District, 719-836-2031, or Park County Tourism at 719-836-4279. Eat•Shop•Stay Seclusion, summer reading and a good steak
Well-known and worth it Savvy travelers know the Redstone Inn is a place to find Old World charm and service. Built a century ago in Redstone by coal baron John Osgood, the historic Arts & Crafts hotel has become an elegant retreat for groups, weddings and family reunions. If nothing else, stop by and have lunch or dinner on the patio. 800-748-2524. If you're looking for a book to take along on your summer vacation, don't head to the Tattered Cover in Cherry Creek. It's moved to the historic Lowenstein Theater building on Colfax Avenue. Same impressive range of books, but no restaurant—yet. 303-322-7727. Lesser known gems There are only two ways to get to Tall Timber Resort near Durango: by train or helicopter. Now that's a getaway! Once you're there, you may feel like you're the only one on the property. It's that private and secluded. Fish, golf, mountain bike, hike or swim in a pool under a natural waterfall. Don't pack a tie. 970-259-4813. You might think of Aspen for skiing, biking or hiking, but shopping? Oh, it's a big sport here! So load up your wallet and hit the 200-plus shops in town—including some that specialize in cashmere only. Look for end-of-summer sales on designer duds. Believe it or not, bargains can be found. 888-649-5982. Something different It may be you've never eaten a better (or better-for-you) steak than the one you'll get at the Ranch Steakhouse in Colorado Springs, which is quickly getting a reputation as the place for steak. All the beef is raised without antibiotics, steroids or hormones and excels in flavor and tenderness. You can buy some to take home, too. 719-593-1955. It's not quite “Out of Africa,” but the British colonial décor in the “Out of Kansas” room at the Claremont Inn in Stratton may come close. The three-story historic inn also has more traditional rooms and patrons have compared its elegance and devotion to service to that of the Ritz Carlton hotels. Be sure to choose something from its well-stocked wine cellar to go with your gourmet dinner. 719-348-5125.
See & Do New trains bring southern Colorado closer Well-known and worth it This summer's hottest new attraction is the San Luis Express, which takes train buffs through seldom-seen country on its route between Alamosa and La Veta. Rail fans also will be excited to know that the new Toltec Gorge Limited will connect Alamosa with the Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railway's departure point in Antonito. The two new lines and the range of accommodation available in Alamosa get rid of that old excuse “I want to go, but it's too far to drive.” It's railroad heaven. 877-726-7245. We don't shout “surf's up” too often in Colorado, but it may come to mind during a visit to Denver's Water World in Thornton, open each summer. It's a great place to cool off on a hot day, and a fun place for families to play together. It was ranked one of the nation's top 10 water parks by the Travel Channel. 303-427-SURF. Lesser known gems Colorado's ghost towns are sometimes hard to reach. None more so than Interlaken, an abandoned resort near Leadville. You can only get there by boat. Twin Lakes Boat Tours provide guided two-hour tours of the lakes themselves and stop at the resort site, which is undergoing restoration, so you can explore the once-popular getaway. 719-221-9919. World-class performers take various stages at the Colorado Festival of World Theatre in venues from Colorado Springs to Woodland Park, July 15-30. This innovative event will feature British actress Lynn Redgrave's new one-woman play “Nightingale,” among other international theatrical treats. 719-475-1737. Something different You can hunt for your lunch, then learn how to cook it, at one of Colorado's annual mushroom forays this summer. Crested Butte puts the “fun” back in “fungi” on Aug. 17-20, 800-455-1290. Or check out the King Boletus Mushroom Festival Aug. 26-27 in Buena Vista, 719-395-8458. See them tumbling down at the Cheyenne Wells Tumbleweed Festival, July 15-16. There'll be an egg toss and duck races for kids, carnival games and relay races for all ages, plus horseshoe and golf tournaments. And dare to sample one of Colorado 's signature dishes at the Rocky Mountain Oyster fry (hint: not oysters). 719-767-5280. Linda DuVal is a freelance writer and former travel editor for The Gazette in Colorado Springs.
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