July | August 2006 Volume 80 Issue 4 |
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Feature Great Weekend Getaways Summer in Colorado seems
The problem, of course, is finding a way to see and do it all. From Memorial Day to Labor Day, there are exactly 15 weekends—15 precious opportunities to grab the family, escape from the workaday world, and remind yourself why Colorado is such a great place to live. To help stimulate your thinking about where you want to go, what you want to see and do, we've divided the following feature article into three sections: Mountains, Plains and Water. Each section was written by a Colorado travel writer and contains three ideas for your summertime explorations. These nine ideas should be considered a mere starting point for finding your own great weekend getaway in Colorado —the state that seems to have it all. For even more ideas, see the regular Colorado Explorer section or visit www.aaa.com/getaways .
Mountain Magic Farmers' markets Pick almost any day of the week and there's a farmers' market somewhere in the Colorado mountains. Farmers and fresh produce are still at the heart of the markets, but you'll find a lot more, too. Aspen's see-and-be-seen downtown Saturday market—heels and chic straw hats are appropriate—has organic produce and baked goods, along with stalls featuring fine crafts and artwork from paintings and blown glass to jewelry and accessories. Among the most beautiful are pieces sculpted from luminous Colorado Yule Marble. It's a good bet that Woody Creek Cellars will be on hand selling its organic artisan wine, and if you love fresh flowers, get them here. Want to have your aura read, reduce muscle pain with elk antler capsules made in Hotchkiss, purchase a custom pet memorial from a New Castle artist or indulge in all-natural peppermint foot cream made locally? You can. Vail's market, Sundays on Meadow Drive, offers everything from gourmet food to chair massages to pony rides. Start with treats from Vail Gourmet Cookie Company—strictly for sustenance, of course. Many vendors—jewelers, artists, bakers—have stores along Meadow Drive, so if you don't see what you want outside, check inside. Or just sit in the shaded stand where folks read the paper and watch the colorful market all around. In Telluride, a town famous for its annual bluegrass festival, local musicians are as much a part of the Friday afternoon farmers' market as local produce and goods. Set up on South Oak Street from June through October, the Telluride market also features organic wines, Colorado game meats, fresh local eggs and more. Tourists and visitors alike come to shop. Some other 2006 farmers' markets to check out: Estes Park, 470 Prospect Village Dr., Thursdays until Sept. 28, 8 a.m.–12:30 p.m.; Dillon, Marina Park parking lot, Fridays until Sept. 8, 9 a.m.–1 p.m.; Granby, town parking lot, Fridays until Sept. 29, 4 p.m.–8 p.m.; Gunnison, Main & Virginia, Saturdays until mid October, 9 a.m.–1 p.m. Visit www.ag.state.co.us/Mkt/farmfresh/farmersmarkets.html or call 303-239-4115 for a complete list around the state. Discovering Edwards Founded in the late 1800s, Edwards was long a bedroom community for Vail and Beaver Creek resort employees. While ski area workers and others drawn to the small-town mountain ambiance still live here, the quiet town on the banks of the Eagle River is now a destination in its own right—even if many Coloradans don't yet know it. Located almost in the geographical center of Eagle County , Edwards is within a few miles of Vail, Beaver Creek, Bachelor Gulch and Arrowhead, and just 30 minutes from Glenwood Springs, making it an ideal base from which to explore. Once here, however, you may find yourself utterly content to stay. The heart of town is Riverwalk, an enclave of restaurants and stores fronting the river. Some eclectic shops, especially Asian Village Antiques and Alpine Ambiance (need a moose toilet paper holder?) rival those in Vail. It's not all commercialism, though. Walk or bike the paved path along the dappled shore, or settle onto a bench and watch the world, or at least the merry Eagle River, go by. If your morning doesn't include a latte and pastry (or crème brulée French toast) at The French Press, grab a sidewalk table for lunch at the Euro-inspired eatery and savor a roast turkey sandwich with pear and mango chutney. Or do as my family did—go for both. Then mosey to Gorsuch Outfitters and sign up to challenge crafty Colorado trout with a fly rod; Gorsuch has guided outings for experts and novices, women and kids. Riverwalk Inn and Suites is the only in-town hotel, and home to one of Vail Valley 's best restaurants. Frites is classically French bistro in design with a superb menu highlighted by steak and seafood, and a friendly, upbeat air. Do wander up a couple of blocks to Eat! Drink! for a broad selection of unusual cheeses and wine, to stay or to go. Don't worry if you don't see it all in one visit. Once you discover the charm of Edwards, you'll be back. Bishop's Castle A castle in Colorado? Absolutely. Sort of. Well, almost. It's more or less the shell of a castle—no kings or queens living inside. After all, it's not finished. Never mind that construction began in 1969. But what's up there in the forests of Beulah, about 45 miles west of Pueblo , is definitely a castle, and one of the state's odder tourist attractions. Jim Bishop, the guy who's been building the castle singlehandedly for 37 years, calls it “the largest one-man construction project in the country, quite possibly the world.” At least that's what it says on the castle's website, which frankly hasn't been updated in a while. Not surprising. When you have a fulltime job at the family ornamental iron shop and spend all of your free time building a castle, there's not a lot of spare time. Tourists are welcome to wander around the sprawling stone castle with its towers and turrets created out of more than a thousand tons of rock. Building material was gathered from the surrounding San Isabel National Forest (eventually with permission from the government, after a long-running, heated feud) and put in place by hand by Jim Bishop. Some call him inspired; others call him crazy. Whatever you think of Bishop, the castle itself is intriguing, and if you haven't seen it, now's the time. If you saw it even a few years ago, you might be amazed at its growth since then. As an ongoing and perpetual project, Bishop's Castle is constantly in flux. Some platforms and walkways are high off the ground, so this may be a destination that's best for adults and families with older kids. If you do bring younger children, who will surely be intrigued by the behemoth fantasy structure, hold onto their hands at all times. Bishop Castle is open 365 days a year, and donations to keep construction going are welcomed. There's also a gift shop on site. 719-485-3040. Christine Loomis is a freelance writer and editor in Lafayette, and a frequent contributor to EnCompass. The lure of the Plains Fort Morgan It's a shame Major Stephen Long can't see Fort Morgan's current community of nearly 12,000 residents. This commercial and retail hub of northeast Colorado now boasts a charming downtown, manicured city parks and a museum which includes displays of hometown hero,‘40s-era big-band leader Glenn Miller. When Long passed through the area in 1820, he was decidedly unimpressed. He encountered some streams, which he christened (Bijou Creek being one of them), but declared the Colorado plains were “unfit for cultivation and uninhabitable by a people depending upon agriculture for their subsistence.” Fortunately, explorer John C. Fremont followed up with a visit of his own 22 years later. Enthusiastically, Fremont let the world know that Long's so-called “Great American Desert” was simply a myth. One hundred and sixty-four years after that myth-busting, Fort Morgan has firmly established itself as a successful agricultural community. It really flourished when the Great Western Sugar Factory (now called Western Sugar) opened west of town in 1906. Reflecting the city's optimism, opulent mansions sprung up along Sherman Street, which is now a National Historic District. Glenn Miller put the town on the national map, as did the construction of the James Marsh Rainbow Arch Bridge, which in 1923 was the largest rainbow arch bridge in the world. On the National Register of Historic Places and designated a Colorado Civil Engineering Landmark, the bridge is now preserved for hikers and bikers, and marks the entry point to the Pawnee Pioneer Trails Scenic Byway. Today's visitors to Fort Morgan will also discover Riverside Park, a 180-acre nature sanctuary that winds along the Platte River adjacent to the Rainbow Bridge. Information: 800-354-8660; www.fortmorganchamber.org. Dearfield Ghost Town Blink as you drive down U.S. Highway 34, midway between Greeley and Fort Morgan, and you might miss a fascinating slice of Colorado history. That jumble of buildings and piles of lumber south of the road is Dearfield Ghost Town, the remains of what once was the state's largest all-black settlement. The settlement was the revolutionary experiment of Oliver Toussaint Jackson. The son of an illiterate slave, Jackson grew up in Ohio and moved to Colorado in 1887, where he worked first in the restaurant industry, then as a state messenger for several Colorado governors. After capturing Booker T. Washington's vision of blacks achieving independence through land ownership, Jackson filed a claim to homestead 320 acres in 1910 and advertised for settlers. The town's name was suggested by a resident, who explained, “These are to be our fields, and because they are ours they will be very dear to us.” During the colony's first winter, five of its seven families lived in dugouts or tents. To stay warm, they burned scavenged buffalo chips and driftwood that they carried miles from the Platte River. Despite the inhospitable conditions, they persevered, and by 1921 Dearfield had 700 residents. Some raised livestock, while others concentrated on crops that included oats, squash and sugar beets. During its heyday, Dearfield was a gathering place that on weekends nearly doubled in size as breadwinners who worked in other cities came home to their families. Jackson's wife Minerva opened a popular diner and the town sponsored barn dances, picnics and parties. Unfortunately the Depression combined with the dust bowl years took its toll, and Dearfield's population dwindled until it eventually disappeared. Of the many buildings that once dotted Dearfield, only three remain: the ruins of the filling station, the diner and Jackson's home. While not one of the state's most scenic ghost towns, Dearfield is among the most historically significant. The Black American West Museum & Heritage Center in Denver is continuing preservation efforts, shoring up the remaining buildings and acquiring land that was once owned by the town. It plans to turn the area into a historical park by 2008. Information: 303-292-2566. Vogel Canyon Millions of years ago, southeast Colorado's Vogel Canyon was carved into history when the forces of nature gouged a huge chasm through the Dakota Sandstone. It is a record that continued nearly a millennium ago when Native Americans carved and painted abstract shapes into the canyon's vertical rock face and shallow overhangs. Then finally, more than 100 years ago, stagecoaches carved deep ruts in the dirt. All these traces of the past can still be seen today. Approximately 15 miles south of La Junta, Vogel Canyon is a record of creations, carved by both nature and man—a beautiful area, more wondrous because of its juxtaposition with the prairie. Located within the Comanche National Grasslands, the canyon is a haven for deer, jackrabbits, salamanders and many species of birds. It features four self-guided hikes varying in length and difficulty. The first, Overlook Trail, is an easy one-mile hike that leads to a canyon overlook. Mesa Trail is a two and a quarter-mile moderate trek through juniper woodlands and short grass prairies. It passes the ruined homestead of the Westbrook family, who settled in this region during the Depression, and vestiges of an old stagecoach station. The station served the Las Animas to Trinidad route, which was formed by the Barlow & Sanderson stagecoach empire as a spur off the Santa Fe Trail—the West's oldest commercial road. The Canyon Trail is an easy one and three quarter-mile walk visiting the Overlook, the Westbrook ruins, rock art sites and one of the two permanent springs that feed the canyon and sustain its wildlife. Although it is difficult to determine what many of the ancient etchings represent, a large animal figure is prominent in the northern overhang. The moderate 3-mile Prairie Trail passes through juniper woods and prairie grasses, and parallels the fading ruts formed by the stagecoaches. The park offers covered picnic tables and rustic camping. Bring plenty of water, as neither of the springs in the canyon are safe for drinking. Information: www.exploresoutheastcolorado.com, or contact the National Forest Service's La Junta branch, 719-553-1400. Shelly Steig is a Parker-based freelance writer who has written three books and more than 150 articles. Watery Adventures Three alpine lake hikes When it comes to lakes, Colorado may not have the largest or the most, but the state can comfortably boast of having some of the loveliest high-altitude bodies of water in America. Yes, you have to walk to get there. But these easy-to-moderate hikes will take you far beyond the commotion of urban life, to a serene shoreline perfect for sitting and daydreaming away an alpine afternoon. Lake Isabelle: This popular two-mile hike in the Indian Peaks Wilderness begins with a gentle meander through stands of aspen and spruce, passing Long Lake before climbing toward the high peaks of the Continental Divide. As the trail rises above timberline, snowmelt streams tumble down hillsides carpeted with wildflowers in summer. After puffing up the last steep section, hikers are rewarded with a sparkling alpine lake set against a backdrop of 13,000 foot peaks. Stroll along the shoreline trail and choose the perfect picnic spot. Getting there: From Boulder, head west on Canyon Blvd. and continue to Nederland. Take CO 72 (Peak to Peak Highway) north for 13 miles to Ward. At the north end of town, turn left at the Forest Service sign for Brainard Lake. Take this road to Brainard Lake, then follow the signs to the Long Lake trailhead. Herman Lake: The most challenging part of this 3.5-mile trail is the first 15 minutes, a steep uphill slog from the trailhead alongside I-70. After half a mile the route levels off and the highway hum from below fades away. Savor the quiet as the path enters a park-like valley known for its summer flower displays. Following a stream up the drainage, the trail becomes steeper in the last mile. One final push over a rocky ridge, and it's a short drop down to the lake basin. Nestled at the base of jagged 13,000 foot peaks, the shallow lake is clear enough to see the bottom. Expect to share the lake with people (and dogs—please keep them leashed) on weekends. But those who start early or hike during the week will find solitude. Getting there: Take I-70 west from Denver to exit 218. Make an immediate right off the exit and backtrack a short distance to the parking lot. Heart Lake: Half the fun of this remote southwest Colorado lake is the scenic drive through the San Juan Mountains to the trailhead. The gravel road follows the Rio Grande for almost 17 miles, passing beaver dams and two reservoirs before arriving at Lost Trail Creek Trailhead. Beginning in a shaded forest of aspen, fir and spruce, much of this 3.5-mile trail is also a rugged all-terrain vehicle path. Occasional meadows offer sweeping views back down the valley toward distant peaks. Several stream crossings over log bridges keep things interesting. The route is lightly used, and you may have the trail to yourself. The last mile traverses a steep, wooded hill before dropping into Heart Lake basin. Gray jays patrol the shoreline, flying over to inspect hikers as they emerge from the trees. Sit quietly and watch clouds sail over the surrounding peaks, knowing you're far from the world back home. Getting there: Travel southwest from Creede on Colorado Highway 149 (toward Gunnison) for 20.1 miles, to the intersection of Highway 149 and Forest Road #520 (Rio Grande Reservoir/Upper Rio Grande Road). Follow Road #520 approximately 16.5 miles to the Lost Trail Creek Trailhead. Paddling Lake Dillon If the idea of gliding by kayak or canoe across a mountain lake sounds appealing, then Lake Dillon may be the perfect place to wet your paddle. Cast off from the marina dock, aim beyond the anchored sailboats, and you're on your own, free to follow the breezes and your own whims. “People come here because it's peaceful, and a relaxing way to spend the day,” says Christy Blohm, marina office manager. The marina rents both kayaks and canoes. “We get lots of first-timers, so we give them a few pointers before they push off.” Whether exploring the rocky shoreline and piney islands or self-propelling into back bays where herons fish the shallows, take time to observe nature. Ospreys patrol overhead. Trout leap from the water and smack down with a splash. Each paddle stroke takes you further from life on land and closer to the calming rhythm of pull and glide. Mornings are often still and perfect for paddling. Weather can change fast, especially on summer afternoons, and the marina won't rent watercraft if the sky turns ominous. But the season runs from around mid-May to mid-October, offering many calm boating days. Or as Blohm says, “We open when the ice melts, and we don't close until the snow comes.” Getting there: Lake Dillon is approximately 70 miles west of Denver on I-70, exit 205. Frisco Bay Marina, 970-668-4334, www.friscobaymarina.com. Navajo Lake If all of Navajo Lake was in Colorado, it would be the state's largest body of water. Although two-thirds of the lake lies across the state line in New Mexico, that doesn't faze Colorado boaters, fishermen, water skiers and wildlife watchers who come to enjoy this 35-mile-long reservoir. Just 45 minutes from Pagosa Springs, the surroundings feel far from city life. The route to Navajo State Park passes through the Southern Ute Indian Reservation, where softly folded hills studded with juniper and piñon lend a distinctly New Mexico look to the landscape. Western bluebirds dart from fence posts to snatch insects in midair. Other than an occasional ranch nestled along the creek, the country is sparse and undeveloped. Eventually the road meets up with the Piedra River and follows it to Navajo Lake via the small town of Arboles. Along the shore of Navajo Lake is Colorado's Navajo State Park, which boasts a small but well-done visitor center, developed campsites, hiking trails, a wildlife viewing area, an outdoor amphitheater and marina. Just offshore from the campground, dozens of sailboats and pontoon boats bob at their moorings in the warm breeze. Water skiers cut white slashes across the blue water. Along the shoreline, hiking trails thread past gnarled piñon pines and blooming yucca. Far from bright city lights, the evening unveils a shimmering, star-filled sky. After a full day of water activities, families gather around camp tables for dinner in the cooling air. Deer come out to browse and crickets begin their serenade. Below the campground bluffs, the rhythmic slapping of waves along the beach drifts upward, perfect for lulling tired campers to sleep. Getting there: From Pagosa Springs drive west on US 160 for approximately 16 miles. Turn south onto CO-151 and continue for 14 miles to the lake. Eric Lindberg is a Lakewood-based travel writer and photographer who has written for EnCompass on numerous occasions.
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