AAA Colorado ~ EnCompass Magazine

September | October 2006
Volume 80 Issue 5

Feature Air Crew Tips on Paris
By Shelly Steig

Photo: Amelie Dupont/Paris Tourist Office

I grew up in a flying family and learned early that air crews make fantastic travel guides. They approach a city from a unique point of view since they visit often, but are still tourists.

They tend to be thrifty and know how to find good bargains that will fit into their tightly-packed suitcases. They also know how to pack a lot of sightseeing into a 24-hour layover. With this in mind, I asked flight crews for insider tips on Paris. Here are their suggestions.

Gourmet guidance

Because delectable dining options abound in Paris, crew members found it difficult to pick their favorite restaurant. American Airlines flight attendant Sharon Wingler suggests Les Messugues, saying it is "particularly elegant but affordable." United Airlines pilot Woody Friend believes that for French cuisine, "the best value would be any of Willy Dorr's restaurants, such as Bistro du 17eme and Le Bistro de Breteuil. I have eaten at these two more than any other in Paris, for 12 years."

Colleen Shaughnessy-Larsson, an American Airlines flight attendant who loved Paris so much she now lives there, favors L'Etoile du Berger, "a very friendly restaurant that specializes in raclette (a fondue-like cheese dish) at reasonable prices."

Consumer counseling

For the best shopping in Paris, Wingler recommends grocery stores and pharmacies. "Leader Price grocery stores are my favorites and are scattered throughout the city. Their house-label chocolate bars and salad dressings are sublime. Pharmacies are great places to buy scented soaps." The Galeries Lafayette was mentioned several times for department store browsing. For specialty items, flight crews recommend Allicante for olive oil, E. Dehillerin for copper cookware, BHV for hardware and Bally for men's shoes.

Paris street markets are some of the most vibrant, dynamic and diverse in the world. Shaughnessy-Larsson says, "The largest one is on Boulevard Richard Lenoir, near the Bastille, Thursdays and Sundays. The most colorful, lively and exotic is Aligre in the 12th arrondissement (municipal borough)." But since there are many markets throughout the city on different days of the week, United Airlines pilot Dennis George reminded me, "The best street market is the one closest to where you are staying."

Scenery suggestions

From lower levels it is difficult to comprehend the vast beauty of Paris. When seeking a view, Shaughnessy-Larsson says, "Everyone knows about the Eiffel Tower and the view from Sacre-Coeur at Montmartre. Here's one that few travelers know about: From the restaurant at Institute du Monde Arabe you'll have a commanding view of the Seine, Ile St-Louis and Notre Dame."

Also recommended is the vista from the top of the Arc de Triomphe, and from the middle of Pont Neuf bridge.

If you are looking for the perfect place to proclaim your amour in this city of romance, Wingler recommends the Fontaine de Medicis in Luxembourg Gardens. Shaughnessy-Larsson dreams of a bridge along the Seine under a rising moon, while George thinks it's hard to beat the area around Notre Dame and the Ile St-Louis.

Paris' parks are calm oases that offer lush green lawns and colorful gardens. Flight crews had many recommendations for a gentle respite: Republique Square on Eiffel Tower Park, Luxembourg Gardens, Bois de Boulogne and Place des Vosges.

Hidden hints

Air crews' repeat visits give them a chance to find the city's hidden treasures. Flight attendant Angela Nimon discovered the catacombs, a subterranean web of tunnels and rooms located in ancient limestone quarries. Across from the Denfert-Rochereau metro (subway) stop, the catacombs house more than five million skeletons—many of them transferred from overcrowded cemeteries in the late 1700s. Wingler's pick is the Marais quarter of Paris. "Most tourists miss it entirely. It's worth a day to explore the little streets between the Hotel de Ville and the Bastille, discovering little cafés, boutiques, galleries, antique shops and the tiny merry-go-round at the St-Paul metro stop."

"I like the 12th arrondissement because of the lack of tourists," says George. "The restaurants are more relaxed and the area is quieter." He also recommends Le Salon Saveurs, a four-day food and wine event held in May and December.

Shaughnessy-Larsson writes, "I was looking for unusual churches in Paris. My research turned up several in a small area of the 6th and 7th arrondissements-chapels with magnificent interiors and, in some, wax effigies of their saints in glass coffins, and small museums."

Paris has a museum for every interest. Wingler says, "I'm in love with impressionist paintings. The Musee d'Orsay has a vast collection. I also love the Musee Picasso and the Marmottan, a treasure most tourists don't know about. But travelers should explore some of the dozens of other Paris museums, such as the private museum of iconic singer Edith Piaf." Other recommended museums include the Musee Carnavalet, Musee de la Poupee, Musee Nissim de Camondo, and Musee de la Poste.

Where air crews stay

Security issues prevent U.S. flight crews from revealing where they layover. However, many foreign crews contract with Accor hotels, scattered across the city. The nicest of these, the Sofitel Paris Bercy, is a quiet respite with black-out curtains, supremely comfortable beds and a great location near one of Paris' hippest shopping, dining and entertainment villages.

George makes the point that a hotel's location is not necessarily important, since the metro makes the whole city accessible. Wingler says, "When traveling on my own, I stay at one of the many little hotels in the Marais quarter in the 4th arrondissement. They are clean, well-located and affordable."

Other recommendations include the Holiday Inn Republique, the Hilton Paris Eiffel and Le Meridien Montparnasse.

Words of advice

Somewhat tongue-in-cheek, Friend cautions, "Watch where you step!" The French do love their dogs, but don't feel they need to pick up after them. Also, as in any large city, watch for pickpockets on the subway and thieves near ATMs.

Nimon says, "As long as you try to communicate in their language, the French will be friendly with you. Just remember when ordering food, say 'no oeuf,' or some dishes end up with a raw egg on top-I have photos to back this up!"

Shaughnessy-Larson says, "Pick up a #2 large-format map — the Grand Plan de Paris — at the metro ticket office. If you are in Paris for four days or more, buy a weekly ticket to jump on and off buses and the metro."

But don't be too attached to the transportation. George recommends, "Leave some time to visit off-the- beaten-path restaurants, pubs and stores. Just walk down as many streets as time permits." Wingler agrees. "Paris is one of the most beautiful cities in the world, with lovely details everywhere that cannot be noticed from a tour bus or subway car," she enthuses. "Don't be afraid to wander. Get lost and make your own discoveries."

Parker resident Shelly Steig is the wife, daughter, daughter-in-law, sister and niece of flight crew members. She has been traveling since before she could walk.