AAA Colorado ~ EnCompass Magazine

Where would we take my parents for their 50th wedding anniversary? One destination quickly popped to mind: My mother and father had already traveled to 49 U.S. states. Alaska would be their 50th. And with seven of us — including my 70 — something parents, my sister, my wife, and our two then — preteen kids — set to make the trip, we chose the one mode of transport guaranteed to please three generations: a cruise through southeastern Alaska's Inside Passage, a protected waterway that wends its way past islands, villages, glaciers, fjords, mountain peaks and colorful ports.

It worked out beautifully. As we sailed north on a seven-night Royal Caribbean International ship out of Vancouver, each generation was able to pursue its own interests onboard.

My parents seemed determined to partake in every shipboard activity, from power-walking the ship's jogging track to attending lectures on Alaska's natural wonders to the stage shows offered in the evenings. They even participated in a shipboard version of the "Newlywed Game," in which they were the token "oldieweds" — enough said about that.

My kids — son Grael, then 11, and daughter Lia, then 8 — immersed themselves in the ship's children's programs, which kept them busy with arts and crafts projects, games and parties.

Meanwhile my sister, my wife and I sat on deck reading, absorbing the scenery and watching for whales and eagles. But we all spent plenty of family time together as well, joining up for three multi-course meals a day in the dining room — including one salmon dinner capped appropriately by baked Alaska, another by a celebratory wedding anniversary cake — and exploring every shore stop as a group.

On this cruise, we stopped at Ketchikan, Skagway, Haines and Juneau, four of the most popular ports along the Inside Passage. With seven of us, we couldn't afford most of the pricey official shore excursions, so we happily made do with strolling through the towns, soaking up the local color and pausing from time to time to browse through museums or souvenir shops.

In Ketchikan, which exudes an almost Wild West atmosphere, we discovered parks and museums filled with totem poles and intriguing wooden walkways that crossed creeks and led to twisting back alleyways. Skagway was another fascinating frontier-style town, where we hiked out to a Gold Rush-era cemetery, peered into old-time saloons, and saw salmon spawning in a stream.

Tiny Haines, just south of Skagway, occupies one of the most scenic settings in the entire state, while the modern, bustling capital Juneau features a Russian Orthodox church, the Alaska State Museum and a dramatic mountain backdrop.

We did splurge on one organized shore excursion, and it was a good one: the famous White Pass and Yukon Railroad out of Skagway, a vintage narrow-gauge railway that climbs to the 2,865-foot White Pass summit following an 1890s-era Gold Rush trail to the Yukon, complete with views of waterfalls, gorges, and trestles. During the three-hour ride, passengers sit in parlor cars while listening to Gold Rush tales. But some of the most memorable sights of the trip were visible right from the ship's deck. In Tracy Arm fjord, which the captain maneuvered about expertly, we were treated to close-up views of ice-blue glaciers, sheer cliffs, floating icebergs and cascading waterfalls. And when we saw a glacier calving — with huge chunks of ice breaking off and plunging into the water, creating a thundering roar that echoed down the narrow fjord — the entire shipload of passengers broke into a collective chorus of "oohs" and "aahs."

With its combination of raw nature, native cultures, Gold Rush history, and extraordinary wildlife — including humpback whales, bald eagles, brown bears, harbor seals and sea lions — it's easy to see why Alaska has exploded in popularity as a family cruise destination. Where else can you cruise through such an exotic wilderness without leaving the country?

Alaska cruises also make sense for practical reasons. Most ship itineraries are one week-long enough to really get away from it all, but short enough to sustain kids' interest. From Denver, it's less than a three-hour flight to Vancouver or Seattle, the two most common embarkation points (some voyages leave from Los Angeles or San Francisco). Alaska cruising season neatly coincides with school-time summer vacation — May to mid-September, with peak season from June through August — when temperatures average from the 50s up to the mid-70s.

There are a few caveats to consider. High demand, combined with a short season, means that Alaska cruises are typically priced higher than those in Mexico or the Caribbean. Last-minute discounts can also be hard to come by, although you can still find some week-long fares for well under $1,000 per passenger. And to be assured of securing space, it's wise to book an Alaska cruise in January or February.

But you still have plenty of options: some 45 ships from 15 different lines have scheduled Alaska itineraries for 2007. Besides the ports that we visited, many Inside Passage cruises include the historic town of Sitka, capital of 19th century Russian colonial Alaska, with its colorful onion-domed churches. You also can venture beyond the Inside Passage north to the Gulf of Alaska, home of Prince William Sound, Kenai Fjords National Park, and the towns of Seward, Whittier and Cordova. Some ships roam as far northwest as the Aleutian Islands and Russia.

No matter where you go in Alaska, you're guaranteed to see sights you'll see nowhere else in the country. But the way you see them can vary greatly, depending on the type of ship you choose. Alaska cruise ships range from small yachts carrying a dozen passengers or fewer, to mega-ships hauling more than 2,500. For families, the larger ships — operated by Royal Caribbean, Carnival, Celebrity, Norwegian, Holland America and Princess — have a lot to recommend. Averaging around 2,000 passengers, they're geared toward satisfying a wide variety of tastes, visiting the most popular ports and serving up near-round-the-clock food, entertainment, onboard activities and extensive supervised children's programs.

The big ships average much lower basic rates than small ships. But they also tempt the budget with attractive — and often expensive — add-ons, most notably shore excursions: lumberjack shows, Tlingit dance exhibitions, salmon bakes, gold panning, dog sledding, glacial river floating and even bear-watching by floatplane. You can sometimes save money by booking your own shore excursions in advance through independent companies, or simply waiting until you arrive in port.

At the other end of the spectrum, much smaller "expedition-style" vessels — such as those operated by Lindblad Expeditions, Discovery Voyages, The Boat Company, and American Safari Cruises — offer a more adventurous cruising experience. Accompanied by naturalists and carrying no more than 120 passengers, these more maneuverable ships can visit islands, ports and inlets that the bigger ships can't reach. On many, passengers can board Zodiacs or kayaks to get even more intimate views of whales and other attractions. Expect to pay handsomely for all this personal attention; small ships often come at luxury prices. If you just want plain old-fashioned luxury, you can opt for a line like Regent Seven Seas, which has mid-size ships (about 700 passengers) and a children's program that emphasizes Alaskan crafts — making, wildlife and geography.

Not all Alaska cruises are family-friendly, however, and some actively discourage passengers from bringing their children. The most family-friendly cruise lines can be identified by their special kids' programs or discounts. Of the ships that don't offer such programs, some may still be appropriate for older kids who are mature enough to participate in activities with adults.

Regardless of the cruise line you choose, the chances of getting bored on an Alaska cruise are pretty slim. Both the younger and older generations will feel like they're discovering a whole new world. Whales, glaciers, totem poles and the still-resonant air of America's last frontier tend to have that effect.

Clark Norton is a freelance writer living in upstate New York.

AAA Connection

AAA Colorado's travel agency has several preferred partners that offer a variety of cruise options to Alaska, from small ship cruising to luxury liners. Many include exclusive member benefits. Contact your AAA travel agent, call 866-235-7070 or visit www.aaa.com.