AAA Colorado ~ EnCompass Magazine

With soft consonants and gentle vowels, “Honolulu” slips off the tongue like a lullaby. No doubt the soothing sound of the word itself has played a role in luring travelers to the isolated islands of Hawaii over the past 200 years.

It was to Honolulu that a company of New England Calvinist missionaries came, setting up camp near Hawaiian royalty, whose help they needed to bring the Hawaiians into the modern world of 1820. They were followed by sailors, merchants, writers and others drawn by the settlement that became the capital of the nation—and later the territory and state—of Hawaii.

Honolulu is one of the world's long and skinny cities, hemmed in between ocean and mountains. It can be divided into three parts for easy exploration. Most visitors land at Honolulu International Airport in the western part of the city. They drive through central Honolulu — the historic, business, and governmental district — to arrive at their hotel in the eastern beachside neighborhood of Waikiki. Many travelers spend their entire vacation here, in the shadow of volcanic Diamond Head, and never leave the area.

But that would be a mistake. Here are some important and interesting tourist targets in all three parts of the metropolitan area.

Central Honolulu: Religion and royalty

In the business district, the area locals call “Downtown,” begin a walking exploration of the area at the Mission Houses Museum, 553 S. King St. The museum is centered around the pre-fabricated frame house put up by the missionaries—the first western-style structure in Hawaii. Almost next door is Kawaiahao Church. This unusual structure was built from coral dredged from Honolulu Harbor. It is still in operation today.

Nearby is the Kamehameha I Statue, a black and gold representation of the conqueror who unified the islands under a single rule, and who is now considered the first king of Hawaii. Across the street from the statue you'll see Iolani Palace, the Victorian royal structure built by Kalakaua, the last king of Hawaii.

It was later occupied by his sister, Hawaii's last monarch, Queen Liliuokalani. She reigned until the revolution of 1893, which established the Republic. Not long afterwards Hawaii was annexed as a U.S. territory, eventually becoming a state in 1959. Iolani Palace is often called the only royal palace in the United States. The very modern structure behind the palace is the State Capitol, completed in 1969.

Other sites to explore in downtown Honolulu include the tree-shaded Fort Street Mall, a pedestrian walkway. The fort for which the street was named is long gone, but visitors who continue their stroll down to the harbor can explore the Aloha Tower, once the tallest building in town, and the specialty shops surrounding it. Wander a little farther along to the Maritime Museum, which adjoins the old sailing ship The Falls of Clyde moored there. There is considerable hustle-bustle in the neighborhood whenever a modern cruise ship docks near the tower. Things are relatively quiet on other days.

For two more targets in this central area, you will need a rental car or a tour bus. The National Memorial Cemetery of the Pacific is in a volcanic crater called Punchbowl, overlooking downtown. Often called “Hawaii 's Arlington,” it is the last resting place of many who died in World War II and later conflicts. A little further mauka (toward the mountains) is a dramatic park centered around a high cliff, the Nu'uanu Pali Lookout. Providing a not-to-be-missed panorama of the windward side of the island, this cliff was the scene of an important battle between native Hawaiian armies in 1795. Many warriors were driven over the edge.

Eastern Honolulu:
Waikiki and undersea charms

Waikiki, with its world-famous beach and the universally recognized profile of the crater that guards it, has been a traveler's playground at least since the 19th century. The shoreline's dormant volcano, Diamond Head, is 760 feet tall and offers a great view of Waikiki for those who hike to the top. Waikiki Beach might be called the birthplace of surfing—popular among Hawaiians since ancient times, the sport was first seen by Westerners here.

Kapiolani Park, which adjoins Waikiki, has been the center of many community activities for more than a century. Within its boundaries are the pocket-size but well-designed Waikiki Aquarium and the Honolulu Zoo, a pleasant tropical stroll.

Walk along Kalakaua Avenue, Waikiki's “main street” and the address of many of its world-famous hotels, stopping at some outdoor shopping bazaars along the way. These include the International Market Place, with its individually owned stands featuring crafts and other items, and the King's Village, a re-creation of shops inspired by Hawaii's sentimental Monarchy Period. Other shopping meccas on Kalakaua Avenue include the Royal Hawaiian Shopping Center, the multi-story Waikiki Shopping Plaza, and the new and still-evolving eight-acre Waikiki Beach Walk, which is as much an urban renewal project as it is a commercial development.

Two of the many hotels in Waikiki are historic gems of their own. The Moana Hotel was built in 1901 and is now part of a larger establishment. Wander inside to see the Banyan Court, with its magnificent tree that once shaded Robert Louis Stevenson and his royal friends. Then look for the Royal Hawaiian Hotel, affectionately nicknamed the “Pink Palace.” The main building was constructed in 1927 and welcomed well-heeled, long-stay tourists who arrived by ship prior to World War II. The decor of both establishments pays homage to their heyday.

Almost on the beach is the Army Museum, headquartered in an old coastal artillery building that was simply too well built to be torn down.

Further afield, but easily reachable by rental car, you can circle through the upscale residential neighborhood of Kahala, with many stately homes commanding their own sections of sandy beach along the shoreline. Heading out of the city, wheeled explorers can check out Hawaii Kai, a neighborhood on a series of sea-level canals, and Hanauma Bay, an old volcanic crater that was breached by the sea and now forms an underwater park. Here, beginning snorkelers and experienced scuba divers can admire varieties of colorful reef fish.

Finally, remember that Waikiki is the entertainment center of Honolulu, so look in the showrooms and outdoor hotel lawns for music, hula shows, luaus and the like.

Western Honolulu: History, ancient and modern

Everything in this area will require arranging some sort of transportation, whether taxi, bus or rental car, but it's well worth the effort.

Don't wait for a rainy day before checking out the Bishop Museum, the Pacific's official repository of all things Polynesian. The main building is a museum piece itself, having opened for the first time in 1889.

Honolulu 's premier visitor attraction for Americans over the past half century, however, is the USS Arizona Memorial at Pearl Harbor. This is a floating structure that spans the hulk of the battleship, left where it was sunk in the Battle of Pearl Harbor on December 7, 1941. The memorial is reached by a short boat trip. Tickets are free and can be obtained at the USS Arizona museum and visitors center.

Other important historical exhibits at Pearl Harbor include the USS Missouri Memorial. This is a chance to explore the inner reaches of one of the U.S.'s most famous battleships and then stand on the deck where the surrender was signed while the Missouri was anchored in Tokyo Bay, Sept. 2, 1945.

Many enjoy the Pacific Fleet Submarine Museum, centered around a historic submarine, the USS Bowfin, veteran of many Pacific operations during World War II. It's within walking distance of the USS Arizona Museum and visitors center.

Lastly, the Pacific Aviation Museum opened on Dec. 7, 2006 in an old seaplane hanger at Pearl Harbor. In addition to exhibits which include American and Japanese airplanes of the 1940s, visitors are taken to see the bullet holes that were left on nearby buildings during the attack.

While metropolitan Honolulu's three distinct parts are easy to reach, they are not the only travelers' targets on Oahu. After your time exploring the city, remember that many other attractions, interesting rural areas and small villages on the island also await exploration by visitors equipped with a good map, a rental car and a strong sense of curiosity.

Hawaii resident Robert W. Bone has authored four travel guidebooks.

AAA Connection

AAA Colorado has numerous vacation packages to all the Hawaiian islands through preferred vendors such as Pleasant Holidays. See your AAA Travel agent or visit www.aaa.com.