Feature Article

In 1935, Cole Porter did a five-month world cruise aboard the Franconia. Somewhere at sea, he reportedly summoned his cabin steward and bid the good fellow to put an upright piano in his stateroom. Before the ship delivered Cole to Fiji, he had written "Begin the Beguine." Why should my world cruise expectations be any less ambitious?

You understand that I am not booked to do the entire world cruise of the 940-passenger Crystal Symphony-her sixth such annual odyssey-for that would take 104 days and at

A tour of Ho Chi Ming City, via pedal cab, is an authentic sightseeing thrill. MARTY LESHNER

least $39,000, in return for which this charismatic ship would deliver me to 38 ports in 31 countries. Lucky enough to land one of four segments (lasting 25 days), I join the ship in Hong Kong bound for Dubai in the United Arab Emirates. En route, I will sail on waters with names that resonate with exotica-Arabian Sea, Bay of Bengal, Strait of Oman-and my wanderlust eyes will savor Vietnam, Singapore, Myanmar (once Burma), Sri Lanka, the Republic of the Maldives and India. Not bad for a guy who, as a youngster, regarded Atlantic City as the ultimate in esoteric destinations.

My cruisemates are equal parts adventurous, curious, privileged and accustomed to luxury; aboard this ship, they will have no cause for disappointment. If, as Flaubert suggested, "God is in the details," then Crystal Symphony is a very spiritual place. Notice how, on Lido Deck, aquamarine towels are precisely folded over turquoise chaises longues; in public restrooms, potpourri and fresh plants provide a clean scent; and buffet waiters scurry to assist passengers with trays. Cabin stewardesses place a mat at bedside and turn on a nightlight at turndown service, and, as the equatorial sun steams on Sun Deck, stewards dispense ice-cold water and chilled towels.

Crystal Symphony passengers are given a warm welcome in Cochin, India. MARTY LESHNER

Meanwhile, on posh Penthouse Deck, butlers arrange for complimentary pressing of clothes, stock the suite's bar with your preferred beverages and bring canapés at cocktail hour. The crew, throughout the ship, is appropriately familiar-a collection of pampering professionals motivated to please passengers; it's surely why the 523 repeat guests on our sailing keep coming back.

Lucille Cayton-who, along with her husband Jim, has sailed on 60 Crystal cruises (including every world cruise this line has offered)-is unabashedly attracted to the personalized attention onboard. "We love the staff and the crew," she says. "Everyone onboard knows us and greets us warmly." Adding countries visited to their ambitiously annotated travel journal (they're up to 202) is certainly a joy for the world- and well-traveled Caytons, but Jim knowingly cautions: "It's most important to get the right ship rather than the right itinerary…if you've picked a lousy ship, no matter where you're going, it's no fun."

In the best of both worlds, astute, seasoned cruisers agree that they have selected a ship that will carry them safely (a significant consideration) to unique, off-the-beaten-path ports. In Vietnam, where we are reminded viscerally and visibly that we are visiting a country rather than a war, the road from Hai Long Bay to Hanoi provides a vista of endless rice paddies, lakes of unexpected beauty in the morning mist, and a cacophony of sounds suggesting that horn-honking may be this country's national pastime. In Ho Chi Minh City (formerly Saigon), pedal cabs carry

If you are fortunate enough to have accomodations on Penhouse Deck aboard Crystal Symphony, expect your butler to arrive at cocktail hour with canapés. MARTY LESHNER

anxious cruisers through careening traffic to local markets where vendors sell firecrackers in bundles, live fish in tin bins and spiraling stacks of mushrooms.

Some shipmates opt for an ambitious one-day journey from Vietnam to Cam-bodia's revered (and, by all accounts, magically mystical) temples at Angkor Wat. They return to the ship 20 hours later-tired yet bursting with vivid memories, and anxious for a good long shower, the joy of air-conditioning and terrific food. (It's no surprise, then, that the 2002 world cruise includes Vietnam, with the possibility of the optional excursion to Angkor Wat.)

Crystal Symphony's maiden port of call in Yangon, Myanmar, signals an event that congenial Captain Reidulf Maalen describes as "an adventure truly in unchartered waters." Myanmar has only recently become more receptive to tourism. The undisputed highlight of our visit is the Shwe Dagon Pagoda, a gilt stupa built (according to legend) 2,500 years ago.

Many world cruise itineraries include Hong Kong. HARRY BASCH

We slowly circle this astonishingly ornate enclave that glows golden in the afternoon sun. Around us, the faithful-bearing incense, fruit and fresh flowers-pray silently before statues of Buddha. Smiling monks in saffron-hued robes, chirping birds, children carrying incense and flowers, and insistent gongs inscribe the scene as timeless. These are the images world cruisers can keep, photograph and carry home-along with lacquer boxes, brocaded shawls and sequined marionettes.

Our two ports in India-Cochin in the southern tip and Mumbai (formerly Bombay) northward up the coast-provide time enough for senses to be impacted by this extraordinarily visual, aromatic country. In Cochin's 16th-century synagogue, local teens in vibrant saris pose beneath the sanctuary's vintage chandeliers, while fishermen at water's edge lower nets suspended from high wooden cantilevers in the ancient style. World cruisers venerate maiden port calls. To anticipate their wanderlust and lure them to new adventures, Crystal's 2002 "Grand Pacific Circle" cruise promises a 100-day, four-continent odyssey that will link lucky passengers with 33 ports in 20 countries. Nine maiden ports (are you listening, Caytons?) include Beijing and Shanghai in China, Seoul in South Korea, and Osaka and Hiroshima in Japan.

For the world cruise, staffing in almost

Mozart, sculpted in dark chocolate, oversees the "Mozart Tea" aboard Crystal Symphony. MARTY LESHNER

every department is supplemented and the standards throughout the ship (if this is possible with Crystal) seem measurably higher. I have not heard better prepared, more engaged and engaging lecturers, for example, than Time correspondent Christopher Ogden, geographer Harm deBlij, destination-specific Professor Michael Boll or war correspondent Peter Arnett. The "Food and Wine Festival," a staple lure on many of this line's lengthier voyages, brought us legendary "Lutèce" chef/owner André Soltner who packed the 450-seat Galaxy Lounge as he put his sea bass with vin rouge in the spotlight. (Charmingly, he acknowledges, at lecture's end, that he forgot to add thyme. "Oh, well," he shrugs, "if you ever forget something, do what they do in Paris: don't put it in.")

World cruise passengers are treated to eight lavish, professionally produced musical productions. We are charmed as vivacious Petula Clark once again takes us on a musical journey "Downtown;" or when astronaut Buzz Aldrin mesmerizes an audience with his personalized video and lecture highlighting his distinguished career as an astronaut. Jim Nabors, Tommy Tune and Regis Philbin are among the other exceptional talents booked for other segments of this world cruise.

Tempted to come along in 2002? Good-you'll have the opportunity to applaud celebrity guests including Marvin Hamlisch, Maureen McGovern, CNN's Larry King and Garrick Utley, and-in a salute to the 2002 Winter Olympics-inspirational athletes such as Nadia Comaneci, Bart Conner and Rafer Johnson.

The tempo of a world cruise is quiet, relaxed and unforced. There is absolutely no need to rush to today's buffet when, likely, 10 more will follow in the course of the cruise. There is no anxious assault on maitre d's to secure reservations at the two alternative dining restaurants, Jade Garden (Asian) and Prego (Italian)-there are both time and tables for all guests to be accommodated as often as they like.

Activities abound; on one sample sea day, I count 41-with the emphasis on bridge, enrichment lectures, golf clinics and paddle tennis. And even the technologically challenged are likely (sooner or later) to retreat to Crystal's innovative (and wildly successful) "Computer University@Sea." In a specially designated "classroom," eight instructors teach computer basics so students can quickly learn how to e-mail family and friends back home, and use the Internet. (There is a nominal setup charge of $5 and a $3 charge per e-mail sent or received.)

My theory has always been that a truly first-rate ship will offer both exceptional service and cuisine. The Crystal Symphony delivers. Despite this ship's traditional two seatings, dining is leisurely and never rushed. If you crave a particular pasta or caesar salad, obliging dining room captains await word of your whim, and welcome it.

And dining options never bore. Even on the 104-day world cruise, the menu cycle is rotated and never repeated; no wonder that 9,000 items must be provisioned for this globe-embracing voyage. If the tasty osso buco cremolata (braised veal shank in garlic herb sauce, served with an oh-so-creamy polenta) promises to destroy your diet, you might opt, instead, for grilled chicken breast with zucchini. Frankly, you will wish to hold some calories in abeyance: chocolate profiteroles are about to parade by.

Alternate dining options aboard Crystal Symphony are available on a reservations-only basis, at no additional charge, with a suggested $6-per-person gratuity for the waiter. This allows passengers to have a brief sabbatical from their fixed dining room table assignment and to join other cruisemates for dinner (this flexibility is much appreciated on all cruises, but particularly on lengthier ones).

An additional dining option recently introduced by Crystal provides cruisers with an opportunity to dine, on selected evenings, at Lido Deck at the Trident Grill. Under the stars (if the Magradome roof is open), enjoy the California pizza, or a delicious grilled minute steak, or (my favorite) marinated tandoori chicken breast served on freshly baked nan bread. With the Crystal Spa nearby, you can treat yourself to a Shiatsu massage, active algae wrap or reflexology before indulging in one of the Trident Ice Cream Bar's 11 flavors of ice cream and six varieties of toppings.

Onboard, there is a core of "old-timers" (in this case, full world cruise passengers), combined with "new kids on the block" (segment cruisers). Crystal's signature standards of personalized attention and pampering embrace us all, though it is fair to note that the 143 full world cruise passengers understandably enjoy a batch of perks and enhancements befitting members of the "Odyssey Dream Team 2001." Terry Maalen, the specially appointed world cruise hostess, ministers to her familiar flock ("half of them have been to our home") with the effortless grace and keen

Delightful dining is a hallmark of Crystal Cruises. CRYSTAL CRUISES

perceptions that come with 22 years of cruise experience. Full world cruisers enjoy their own daily newsletter, unique social events (including a waffle party on the bridge and a "Night of 1000 Stars" Hollywood tribute) plus a variety of appreciated mementos.

My own large table in the dining room (numbering 11) is comprised of several full world cruise passengers, as well as others who are doing one or more segments. The mix is effortless and amiable, with not a hint of snobbery or condescension. While onboard, all of them have already booked this ship's 2002 world cruise. "Come back next year, Marty," one smiles, "and join us for that voyage..." I should only be so lucky.

Marty Leshner has contributed to more than 100 publications worldwide. His 25-day segment of Crystal Symphony's 2001 world cruise was exhilarating and memorable; he is now dieting at home in Los Angeles.

if you go

For information regarding Crystal Cruises' "Grand Pacific Circle" 2002 World Cruise, or other itineraries offered by both Crystal Symphony and her sister ship Crystal Harmony, contact your AAA travel professional.

Other cruise lines offering world cruise itineraries next year include AAA-preferred lines Holland America and Princess.