AAA Mini Tour

Touring the San Juan Skyway
by Margo Sloan
    
This month's AAA Mini Tour explores a 236-mile loop on the San Juan Skyway, traversing two billion years of geologic history. Often called "the most beautiful drive in America," this spectacular scenic byway passes through rugged mountains, rolling ranch lands and mesa country. The Skyway travels over four mountain passes and through two National Forests, Uncompahgre and San Juan, and provides a view of many different climate zones. Stops include Victorian-era towns and archaeological sites. Plan to take this tour over a weekend or longer to fully enjoy the varied attractions.
     Begin the tour in Durango, a town founded in 1880. Ancestral Pueblo Indians were actually the first settlers in the Four Corners region, but they vacated the area around 1300 AD. During the Gold Rush the Denver and Rio Grande Railroad built a branch to Silverton, making Durango the hub of its rail system. Today, the steam-powered, narrow gauge locomotive carries passengers instead of ore on its scenic route from Durango north to Silverton, through the scenic San Juan Mountains. (It's called a narrow gauge because the rails measure 36 inches apart, while standard gauge rails are 56 inches apart.) During the winter (through May 4), the Winter Cascade train has one departure per day, at 10 a.m., and travels to Cascade Canyon and back, 19 miles short of Silverton. Durango offers special events year-round, such as this year's First Annual Durango Film Festival in mid-March, the Durango Meltdown Bluegrass Festival in early April and the 30th Annual Iron Horse Bicycle Classic over Memorial Day weekend¾just to name a few.
     From Durango, the tour travels west on US 160 to Mancos, a quiet ranching community with charming western shops and outdoor recreation facilities. The snow-capped La Plata Mountains rise in the east.
     Seven and one half miles west of Mancos on US 160 is the entrance to Mesa Verde National Park, the world's largest and best-preserved cliff dwellings and mesa-top villages, built by the Ancestral Pueblo people beginning in 550 AD. Mesa Verde was awarded first place of historic destinations around the world by Conde Nast Traveler magazine's 1998, 1999 and 2000 Readers' Choice Survey, and is named one of the "50 Places of a Lifetime to Visit," by National Geographic Traveler magazine.
     Access to the sites is limited in the winter, but you'll have the advantage of smaller crowds. In early March, visitors can tour Spruce Tree House, the third largest cliff dwelling in the park. Park rangers lead free, guided trips through the site at 10:00 a.m., 1:00 and 3:30 p.m. daily starting from Chapin Mesa Museum, weather permitting. Other major sites can be viewed from overlooks on the paved Mesa Top Road that loops through the park. Cliff Palace and the Far View Visitor Center will open in early April; Balcony House opens in mid-May; and Wetherill Mesa opens Memorial Day. As planned, all facilities and services will be available this summer, despite the two major wildfires of 2000. Park Superintendent Larry T. Wiese explains, "The experience of visiting Mesa Verde will be virtually the same as before last summer. The aftermath of the fires will provide an added dimension, a richer version of the story of the original Mesa Verdeans."
     Various Native American cultural events are held in Mesa Verde and the surrounding region throughout the summer, including the Indian Arts and Culture Festival Memorial Day weekend, May 26 through 28. The event features a rug auction, Indian market, cultural demonstrations and performances, exhibitions and lectures. For more information, call toll-free: 800-565-3414 or 800-449-2288.
     The tour now returns to US 160 and continues west to Cortez. A trading center for the Four Corners area, Cortez is the second largest community on the San Juan Skyway. Many fine art galleries and trading posts sell Native American goods such as Hopi Kachinas, Apache baskets, Navajo rugs and Ute beadwork. The Colorado Welcome Center is located in Cortez and has great information and maps on the whole area.
     The next stop on the tour is the Anasazi Heritage Center, located 10 miles north of Cortez, just west of Hwy. 145 on Hwy. 184. The center contains one of the world's major collections of ancestral Puebloan artifacts. Some 2.5 million records, samples and artifacts from the Dolores Archaeological Program and public lands in southwestern Colorado comprise its collection. Set into a hillside near the 12th-century Dominguez and Escalante Pueblos, the facility includes a large exhibit hall, theater, traveling/temporary exhibit gallery and museum. The center is open year-round and the tours are self-guided. The Mini Tour continues northbound on Hwy. 145 through the town of Dolores and into the Dolores River Valley. This scenic drive takes you past Red Rock Bluffs, winds through the small towns of Stoner and Rico and leads over Lizard Head Pass (el. 10,222 ft.). Fifteen miles further north, the route comes to the turnoff for the historic town of Telluride. Turn right (east) for the four-mile, scenic drive into town.
     Like many of the communities nestled in the San Juans, Telluride was once a rowdy mining camp. Today, Telluride is known for great skiing in the winter and numerous outdoor activities in the summer. Known as the "Festival Capital of Colorado," countless events are offered throughout the spring and summer. The entire town is a National Historic District, with numerous restored Victorian buildings. For a detailed depiction of the town, the Telluride Visitors Guide, available at the Visitor Information Center, 666 W. Colorado, includes a self-guided historic walking tour.
     From Telluride, our tour takes the scenic drive to Ouray. Take Hwy. 145 north to Placerville, then head northeast on SR 62 for the winding drive to Ridgway. This highway follows the route of the Rio Grande Southern Railroad. As you climb Dallas Pass (el. 8,989 ft.), look for remnants of the old rail bed and bridges. Just outside of Ridgway, the tour connects with US 550 and turns south toward Ouray.
     Named for a Ute chief, Ouray is also known as the "Little Switzerland of the Rockies" because of the towering peaks that encircle the community. To learn about the town's history, visit the Ouray County Historical Museum at 420 6th Ave. Built in 1887, the structure served as a hospital until 1964. The museum preserves the original operating room, doctor's office and patient room. Museum visitors can also explore a reconstruction of an area mine. A popular attraction in town is the Ouray Hot Springs Pool. The outdoor, million-gallon pool is open daily from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. June 1 through Labor Day, and noon to 9 p.m. the rest of the year. For more information, phone 970-325-4638.
     If you visit during the summer, Box Canyon is worth a visit. Located within the city limits, the canyon is 20 feet wide and 285 feet high. Its perpendicular granite walls are roofed by stone. Canyon Creek rushes through the narrow gorge, which is spanned by a high bridge. The canyon is open May 1 through October; admission is charged.
     From Ouray, continue traveling south on US 550 to Silverton. This section of the route is called the Million Dollar Highway. It follows the original roadbed of a historic toll road, climbing Red Mountain Pass (el. 11,118 ft.) where the views are spectacular.
     Silverton was a booming silver town in the 1880s. After the first major silver strike in 1871, the town prospered, and between 1882 and 1918, the Las Animas district mines spewed out $65 million in ore. The Grand Imperial Hotel, an 1880s showplace for silver kings, and the gold-domed courthouse are evidence of Silverton's bonanza years. Blair Street and its assorted 24-hour brothels thrived. The infamous thoroughfare, with its false-front buildings is now an attraction in its own right and is often used as a movie set. From Silverton south to Durango, the San Juan Skyway ascends Molas Pass (el. 10,910 ft.). Stop at the summit overlook where a US Forest Service display provides information on the surrounding vistas. The steep, winding drive down the south side of the pass leads to Durango Mountain Ski Resort (formerly Purgatory).
     South of the resort, the highway passes the towering Hermosa Cliffs, then enters the Animas River Valley and returns you to Durango, completing this tour of the San Juan Skyway.
    You may e-mail your comments or questions about this Mini Tour to Margo Sloan keastlund@colorado.aaa.com

For More Information

     Stop by or call your nearest AAA office for hotel reservations, TourBooks and maps.


Durango Visitor Info … 800-525-8855; www.durango.org
Durango Silverton Railroad … 888-872-4607; www.durangotrain.com
Mesa Verde … 970-529-4465; www.nps.gov/meve
Mesa Verde Country Visitor Info … 800-253-1616; www.mesaverdecountry.com
Anasazi Heritage Center … 970-882-4811
Telluride Visitor Information … 800-525-3455; www.telluride.org
Ouray County Chamber … 800-228-1876
Silverton Chamber … 800-752-4494; www.silverton.org

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