AAA Mini Tour

The Old Roadways

Jagged peaks of the Sangre de Cristos rise above the Great Sand Dunes in southern Colorado. Photo by Eric Wunrow

by Margo Sloan

The San Luis Valley is the only true desert in the Colorado Rockies. This region, set between two towering mountain ranges-the Sangre de Cristos to the east and the sprawling foothills of the San Juans to the west-offers unmatched scenery. The AAA Mini Tour this month travels a portion of the Los Caminos Antiguos (meaning "the ancient roads") Byway that follows the ancient roads of the Utes and their ancestors to San Luis. It includes many significant cultural and historical attractions, as well as a few surprises.

Begin the tour in the tiny hamlet of Hooper (population: approximately 90). If you're in the mood for something a little different, visit the San Luis Valley Alligator Farm, just north of Hooper. In the mid-1980s, an engineer-turned-entrepreneur imported gators from Florida to be living recyclers for wastes from his commercial fish farm. Due to the geothermal water that seeps from the ground at a constant 87 degrees, this region provides a surprisingly appropriate environment for the warm-water creatures. There are now about 100 of these reptiles. Admission is $5 for ages 13 and up, $2.50 for ages 6-12 and free for those under 5. Phone 719-378-2612.

For another diversion in the town of Hooper, visit the UFO Watchtower and Alien Gift Shop, located two and one half miles north of Hooper, off SR 17. It has long been rumored that various "sightings" have taken place in the San Luis Valley area, particularly around the Great Sand Dunes. Whether or not you're a believer in paranormal life, the views in themselves are reportedly spectacular (particularly at sunset). Hours are 1 to 9 p.m., Labor Day through Memorial Day. Admission is by donation. Call 719-378-2296 for more information.

Leaving Hooper, head about six miles south on SR 17 to the small town of Mosca. Then proceed about 16 miles east on County Six Mile Lane, and north on SR 150 toward one of the most interesting and unusual geological features of the valley, Great Dunes National Monument and Preserve. With the rugged Sangre de Cristo ("blood of Christ") mountains as a backdrop, this vast stretch of sand dunes has an other-worldly beauty, yet a fairly simple explanation: as wind carries sand northeast across the valley floor, it comes up against the wall of the Sangre de Cristos. The sand is too heavy to rise over this barrier and accumulates at the foot of the mountains. The result, after 15,000 years, is over 39 square miles of dunes, some reaching as high as 700 feet-the tallest sand dunes in North America. The original 38,000-acre area was a national monument until recently, when it gained more land and added "Preserve" to its name. Within the next year the monument's designation will be officially changed to national park, pending Congress approval. A self-guided nature trail plus camping and picnicking facilities are available. In fall, winter and spring, expect moderate daytime temperatures and freezing to sub-zero temperatures at night. The visitor center has exhibits explaining the natural and human history of the region, including the famous disappearing river, and is open daily from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Admission is $3. Phone 719-378-2312 for more information.

The tour now heads south approximately 15 miles on SR 150 and then east on US Hwy. 160 to the small farming community of Fort Garland. The Colorado Historical Society operates the Fort Garland Museum here in five of the original 20 military fort buildings established in 1858. Legendary frontiersman Kit Carson once commanded the fort as he and his men sought to protect settlers in the San Luis Valley. While rich in military history, the museum also features the folk art and culture of the Hispanic community in southern Colorado. It is open daily from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. through October and then from 8 a.m. to 4 p.m., Thursday through Monday, until April. Admission is $3 for adults, $2.50 for seniors and 1.50 for children ages 6-16. For more information, phone 719-379-3512.

From Fort Garland, continue south on the Los Caminos Antiguos Byway via SR 159 to Colorado's oldest and first permanent town, San Luis, founded in 1851. Like other communities in the valley, this town still shows considerable Hispanic influence and is more characteristic of New Mexico than Colorado with its adobe architecture and shared crop- growing area.

San Luis draws Catholics from throughout the region who seek to re- create Christ's last steps in a pilgrimage known as the Stations of the Cross. Sculptures along a steep, one-mile trail lead to the Capilla de Todos los Santos (Chapel of All Saints) atop the La Mesa de la Piedad y de la Misericordia (the Hill of Piety and Mercy). Some 100,000 visitors make the pilgrimage annually, leaving offerings such as crosses, photos and rosaries. Call 719-672-3685 for further information.

San Luis is also home of the oldest continuously operated business in Colorado. A general store, now called the R&R Market, still stands in the same site where it was originally founded in 1857-a mere 144 years ago!

As you continue on the "ancient road" out of San Luis, head west on SR 142 about 35 miles to the town of Manassa and then go seven more miles south to Antonito, our final stop. Operating until October 21, the Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad is a great way to view the fall colors. Following the bed of the 19th-century mining railroads, it chugs through Toltec Gorge, over the 10,015-foot Cumbres Pass and down the 4-percent grade into Chama, N.M. Trains depart daily from both Antonito and Chama, meet for a lunch stop in Osier, Colo. and return to their originating town. Other options, such as riding the full 64-mile route, are available. Prices vary according to passengers' chosen route; however, the adult fare averages between $50 and $60, while children's (under age 12) fare averages about $25 to $30. AAA members receive a 10 percent discount. Reservations are encouraged-particularly this time of year. For information, phone toll-free 888-286-2737.

The Los Caminos Antiguos Byway continues west via SR 17, but this is where our tour ends. From Antonito, you may take US Hwy. 285 north toward Alamosa and back to Hooper, completing this month's AAA Mini Tour along Colorado's old roadways.

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