Visit the Acropolis, one of the world's greatest buildings. To beat the crowds, be the first one there when it opens.

See the National Archaeological Museum, allowing at least a half-day to appreciate its many treasures.

Stroll the Pláka at night, when the locals and tourists throng the mostly traffic-free streets, enjoying the atmosphere and a good evening meal.

See the Sunday morning flea market around Monastiráki, all bustle and bargains, and the kind of place about which they say, 'if you can't buy it here then it can't be bought'.

Eat in a busy taverna. My own favourite is the Sigalas on Monastiráki Square, especially for a weekend lunch.

Eat in a good restaurant. Splash out on a meal at one of the many fine eating places in Athens. You don't have to stick to souvlaki and Greek salad.

Drink retsina. It's an acquired taste, and you may not acquire it, but you should always try the local drink, if only once.

Enter a church to see the icons and sit a while, watching Athenians come and go. It's also an escape from the noise and traffic.

Linger over a coffee or an ouzo. Have a coffee in the daytime or a pre-dinner ouzo, while watching the Athenian world go by.

See some of the lesser-known museums: the Goulandris Museum of Cycladic Art is stunning, the Museum of Greek Musical Instruments terrific fun, and many of the smaller museums, like the Kanellopoulos Museum, contain items of exquisite beauty.