Start at the Acropolis. Head southwards, climbing up a flight of steps to MAMAC and the Théâtre de Nice.

The monumental, marble-clad Museum of Modern Art (MAMAC) and the 282-million-franc Théâtre de Nice (TDN) are Nice's answer to Paris' Pompidou Centre.

Continue beyond the theatre into the gardens of the promenade du Paillon, climbing to the highest level.

These 'hanging gardens' cleverly hide a hideous concrete car park and the ugly main bus station below. Although a pleasant place to stroll by day, this area is best avoided after dusk.

Go down the steps (to the right of the car park) and cross the road into place Général Leclerc. Continue across allée Résistance et Déportation, through espace Masséna and on to place Masséna

Èspace Masséna, lined with benches and with fountains that bubble both day and night, is a popular yet peaceful place to cool off in the summer. By contrast, neighbouring place Masséna is one of Nice's busiest squares.

More gardens (Jardins Albert I) lead to the waterfront. Turn right on to the Promenade des Anglais.

The Promenade des Anglais follows the gracious curve of the Baie des Anges, past belle époque mansions and follies created by English lords and Russian aristocrats in Nice's heyday. In summer there is a small open-air theatre (Théâtre de Verdure) in the gardens.

Continue along the waterfront until you reach Hôtel Négresco.