Start at the Plaza Mayor. The steps at the southwest corner lead to the Calle de los Cuchilleros, with its centuries-old mesones (taverns). Cross Plaza de la Puerta Cerrada to Calle de la Cava Baja.

At No 9, La Posada de la Villa dates back to 1642. This quarter retains its historic atmosphere, with tiny shops that still sell basketware and alpargatas (rope-soled sandals). At the end, across the Plaza del Humilladero, on the right, is the huge dome of Iglesia de San Andrés

Walk round the south side and into the Plaza de la Paja.

Once the main square of the medieval city, this was overlooked by a royal palace. Today, a lone statue sits on a bench reading the paper.

At the bottom of the square turn right along Calle del Príncipe de Anglona to the 15th-century Iglesia de San Pedro el Viejo, marked by a 14th-century mudéjar (Moorish) tower. Turn left on Travesía del Nuncio and right onto Calle de Segovia.

A plaque at No 1 records the birthplace of San Isidro, Madrid's patron saint. Turn immediately left on Calle del Doctor Letamendi, past the Basilica de San Miguel, along Calle de Puñonrostro and Calle del Codo. Pass the Convento de las Carboneras on the left. Continue to the town hall, the Casa de la Villa

Turn right, walk back along the Calle Mayor to the Plaza Mayor.