A walk through Montmartre is more like a pilgrimage. Allow 3 hours and time for the unexpected such as having your portrait done in place du Tertre!

Start from the square d'Anvers and walk north along rue de Stienkerque.

Facing you are the impressive steps leading to the Sacré Coeur basilica. On the left, a funicular makes the climb easier.

Walk west along rue Tardieu to place des Abbesses.

This is the focal point of social life in Montmartre. Le Sancerre near by (if you can get in), is the most popular bar in the area. The métro entrance is in typical art nouveau style.

Continue northwest and turn right into rue Ravignan leading to place Emile-Goudeau.

The tiny square is one of the most authentic spots in Montmartre. The wooden Bateau-Lavoir, immortalised by Picasso, Braque and Gris, stood at No 13.

Continue up the winding street to rue Lepic then turn right towards the intersection of rue des Saules and rue St-Rustique.

The Auberge de la Bonne Franquette was the favourite haunt of the Impressionists, of Toulouse-Lautrec and Utrillo.

Rue Poulbot on the right leads to place du Calvaire (view), right round to place du Tertre.

The whole square is congested with easels and would-be artists. Go round the right side of the 12th-century Eglise St-Pierre to the Sacré Coeur basilica.

Walk back to rue des Saules and follow it down to the other side of the hill.

At the corner of rue St-Vincent, watch out for the Montmartre vineyard and the Au Lapin Agile nightclub, the rendezvous of young artists and writers in the early 1900s.

Rue St-Vincent on the left leads to rue Caulaincourt where the walk ends.