Ways To Be A Local

• A good sense of humour and a sense of the ridiculous are typical Czech characteristics, so be ready to share a joke.
• Sample the atmosphere in a traditional beer bar (pivnice /hospoda), like U Zlatého tygra.
• Check out the form at the races, there are hurdle and steeplechases, also trotting races ADDRESS: Velká Chuchle course, Radotínská 69, Praha 5 PHONE: 2579 41431.
• It's polite to share a table in a crowded restaurant and a good way to get to know Czechs.
• Take a short cut through the passageways off Wenceslas Square.
• Learn a few words of Czech. More Praguers are coming to terms with English, but they'll appreciate your efforts.
• If you're invited into a Czech home, take some flowers for your hosts.
• Don't talk about Communism or the Russians. Many Czechs prefer to forget the occupation. A safer topic of conversation is the much-loved First Republic (the inter-war years).
• Take a fast-food lunch with the office workers in the Franciscan Gardens.
• Go and watch Prague's leading soccer and ice hockey teams (both called Sparta Praha) at a home game. You can buy their colours from department stores.

Good Places To Have Lunch

• Café Louvre ADDRESS: Národní třida 20, Praha 1 PHONE: 2249 30949. Upstairs restaurant (non-smoking room) with views of the Art Nouveau architecture on Narodní.
• Ethno Café Bar ADDRESS: Husova 10 PHONE: 2232 13713. Ethnic bric-á-brac, including Guatemalan wood carvings, African cane fans and exotic fabric parrots, provides the décor in this pleasant café.
• Le Bistro de Marlene ADDRESS: Plavecká 4, Vyšehrad PHONE: 2249 27853. Round off your tour of the ancient fortress with the best French meal in Prague. Open for lunch Mon - Fri 12 - 2, reservations advisable.
• Nebozízek Restaurant ADDRESS: Petřínské sady PHONE: 2573 15329. The food isn't special but the views from the terrace (reached by funicular) are spectacular. Popular, so reserve a table.
• Pizzeria Rugantino ADDRESS: Dusní 4, Praha 1 PHONE: 2223 18172. Old Town restaurant, serving salads, pies and pizzas cooked in a wood-fired oven.
• Slavia Kavárna ADDRESS: Smetanovo nábřeži /Národní, Praha 1 PHONE: 2422 18493. Captivating views of the river and Mala Strana make this old fashioned café-restaurant special.
• Take a picnic in the small park on Divadelní (near the National Theatre), where there are panoramic views of Prague Castle.
• U Kalicha ADDRESS: Na Bojišti 12 PHONE: 2249 16475 Immortalised by Jaroslav Hašek's novel, The Good Soldier Schweik, U Kalicha cashes in on the literary connection with mugs and other memorabilia.
• U Pešků ADDRESS: Náměsti Míruq 9. Although catering mainly for Czechs rather than tourists, this traditional restaurant welcomes visitors.
• U Zlatého Stromu ADDRESS: Karlova 6 PHONE: 2242 21385. 'At the Golden Tree' is an old hotel with a warm atmosphere. Dishes include Prague toast, chicken salad and pizzas (illustrated menu).

Top Activities

• Bowling: Bowling Centrum RAN Hotel Marriott) ADDRESS: V Celnici 10, Praha 1 PHONE: 2210 33020.
• Canoeing: on the Berounka River - experienced canoers and beginners (Saturdays and Sundays), Central European Adventures ADDRESS: Jáchymova 4, Praha 1 PHONE: 2223 28879.
• Cycling: bikes - and mountain bikes - may be rented from Central European Adventures ADDRESS: Jáchymova 4, Praha 1 PHONE: 2223 28879 who arrange bicycle tours to Karlstejn and the Koněprusy Caves, also day trips around Prague. Closed Mondays.
• Fitness Centres: Hotel Axa ADDRESS: Na poříčí 40, Praha 1 PHONE: 2248 1250; Fitness Club ADDRESS: InterCon tinental Hotel, Náměstí Curieovych 43/5, Praha 1 PHONE: 2966 31111
• Golf: There is a challenging 18-hole golf course at Golf Club Praha (behind Hotel Golf) ADDRESS: Plzeňská, Praha 5 PHONE: 2572 16584. For something less strenuous the Erpet Golf Centrum offers an 18-hole virtual reality golf course, as well as astro-turf putting greens and driving platforms for some serious practice ADDRESS: Strakonická 510, Praha 5 PHONE: 2573 21177.
• Jogging: there are plenty of open spaces for running in Prague including Stromovka Park, the Vyšehrad ramparts, around Strahov, Kampa Island and Letna.
• Karting: Go-karts are available for hire every day on an individual or group basis from ADDRESS: Hůlkova 16, Praha PHONE: 6028 78717.
• Sports Centres: swimming, sauna, massage, squash, tennis and bowling are all available at Sportcentrum Hotel, Čechie Praha ADDRESS: U Sluncové 618, Praha 8 PHONE: 2661 94111; Clubhotel Praha ADDRESS: Průhonice 400 PHONE: 2740 10740.
• Swimming: there are indoor and outdoor pools at Podolí ADDRESS: Podolská 74, Praha 4 PHONE: 2414 33952 There is also a beach at Džbán Reservoir ADDRESS: Šárka Nature Reserve, Praha 6, with a special section for nude bathing.
• Tennis: this is a very popular sport in the Czech Republic and there are clay courts at Štvanice Lawn Tennis Club ADDRESS: Štvanice Island, Praha 7 PHONE: 2223 24601 ADDRESS: Bendvik Diskařskál, Praha 1 PHONE: 2205 14015.

Things To Do On The River

• Dine on a terrace at the Kampa Park Restaurant ADDRESS: Na Kampě 8b PHONE: 2575 32685, overlooking the Vltava.
• Take a pleasure cruise with buffet lunch and live music. EVD, departing from Náměstí Republiky at 11.40am PHONE: 2223 14661
• Take a stroll around the islands: Kampa (Malá Strana), Veslarský ostrov (Podoli), Císařská Louka (Smíchov), Slovanský ostrov Žofín (Nové Město).
• Hire a rowing boat from Rent-A-Boat ADDRESS: Slovanský ostrov (with lanterns at night).
• Feed the waterbirds on the Čertovka river.

Views of Prague

• From 'the metronome' on Letna Gardens - there used to be a statue of Stalin here.
• Across the Malá Strana from the Observatory in Petřín Park.
• Along the Vltava River valley from the ramparts of Vyšehrad.
• Spectacular views of the city from the astronomical tower of the Klementínum.
• Across the Staré Město from the tower of the Town Hall.