Ways To Be A Local

• A good sense of humour and a sense of the ridiculous are typical Czech characteristics, so be ready to share a joke.
• Sample the atmosphere in a traditional beer bar (pivnice /hospoda), like U Zlatého tygra.
• Check out the form at the races (there are hurdle and steeplechases, also trotting races Address: Velká Chuchle course, Radotínská 69, Praha 5 Phone: 543 091).
• It's polite to share a table in a crowded restaurant and a good way to get to know Czechs.
• Take a short cut through the passageways off Wenceslas Square.
• Learn a few words of Czech. Although an increasing number of Praguers are coming to terms with English, they'll appreciate your efforts.
• If you're invited into a Czech home, take some flowers for your hosts.
• Don't talk about Communism or the Russians. Many Czechs prefer to forget the occupation. A safer topic of conversation is the much-loved First Republic (the inter-war years).
• Take a fast-food lunch with the office workers in the Franciscan Gardens.
• Go and watch Prague's leading soccer and ice hockey teams (both called Sparta Praha) at a home game. You can buy their colours from a shop in Betlemské náměstí.

Good Places To Have Lunch

• Café Louvre Address: Národní třida 20, Praha 1 Phone: 2491 2230. Upstairs restaurant (non-smoking room) with views of the Art Nouveau architecture on Narodní.
• Ethno Café Bar Address: Husova 10 Phone: 232 7940. Ethnic bric-á-brac, including Guatemalan wood carvings, African cane fans and exotic fabric parrots, provides the décor in this pleasant café.
• Le Bistro de Marlene Address: Plavecká 4, Vyšehrad Phone: 291 077. Round off your tour of the ancient fortress with the best French meal in Prague. Open for lunch Mon-Fri 12-2, reservations advisable.
• Nebozízek Restaurant Address: Petřínské sady Phone: 537 905. The food isn't special but the views from the terrace (reached by funicular) are spectacular. Popular, so reserve a table.
• Pizzeria Rugantino Address: Dusní 4, Praha 1 Phone: 231 8172. Old Town restaurant, serving salads, pies and pizzas cooked in a wood-fired oven.
• Slavia Kavárna Address: Smetanovo nábřeži /Národní, Praha 1 Phone: 2422 0957. Captivating views of the river and Mala Strana make this old fashioned café-restaurant special.
• Take a picnic in the small park on Divadelní (near the National Theatre), where there are panoramic views of Prague Castle.
• U Kalicha Address: Na Bojišti 12 Phone: 290 701. Immortalised by Jaroslav Hašek's novel, The Good Soldier Schweik, U Kalicha cashes in on the literary connection with mugs and other memorabilia.
• U Pešků Address: Náměsti Míruq 9. Although catering mainly for Czechs rather than tourists, this traditional restaurant welcomes visitors.
• U Zlatého Stromu Address: Karlova 6 Phone: 2422 1385. 'At the Golden Tree' is an old hotel with a warm atmosphere. Dishes include Prague toast, chicken salad and pizzas (illustrated menu).

Top Activities

• Ballooning: the following clubs include insurance and a certificate of 'baptism by ballooning' as part of the deal, Sky Tours Address: Jiří Pašek, Mikuláše z Husi 2, Praha 4 Phone: 439 9544; Adyton Address: Bulharská 16, Praha 10 Phone: 748 136; Stifter Balloons Address: Moskevská 61, Praha 10 Phone: 731 128.
• Bowling: Interhotel Forum Address: Kongresová 1, Praha 4 Phone: 6119 1326.
• Canoeing: on the Berounka River - experienced canoers and beginners (Saturdays and Sundays), Central European Adventures Address: Jáchymova 4, Praha 1 Phone: 232 8879.
• Cycling: Central European Adventures Address: Jáchymova 4, Praha 1 Phone:232 8879 arranges bicycle tours to Karlstejn and the Koněprusy Caves, also day trips around Prague. Closed Mondays.
• Fitness Centres: Hotel Axa Address: Na poříčí 40, Praha 1 Phone: 232 9359; Fitness Club Address: InterCon tinental Hotel, Náměstí Curieovych 43/5, Praha 1 Phone: 2488 1525.
• Golf: There is an 18-hole golf course at Golf Club Praha (behind Hotel Golf) Address: Plzeňská, Praha 5 Phone: 544 586. For something less strenuous the Erpet Golf Centrum offers an 18-hole virtual reality golf course, as well as astro-turf putting greens and driving platforms Address: Strakonická 510, Praha 5 Phone: 548 086.
• Jogging: there are plenty of open spaces for running in Prague including Stromovka Park, the Vyšehrad ramparts, around Strahov, Kampa Island and Letna.
• Sports Centres: swimming, sauna, massage, squash, tennis and bowling are all available at Sportcentrum Hotel, Čechie Praha Address: U Sluncové 618, Praha 8 Phone: 6631 1554; Clubhotel Praha Address: Průhonice 400 Phone: 6775 0019.
• Swimming: there are indoor and outdoor pools at Podolí Address: Podolská 74, Praha 4 Phone: 6121 4343 and Slavia. Address: Vladivostovská 2, Praha 10 Phone: 735 552. There is also a beach at Džbán Reservoir Address: Šárka Nature Reserve, Praha 6, with a special section for nude bathing.
• Tennis: there are clay courts at Štvanice Lawn Tennis Club Address: Štvanice Island, Praha 7 Phone: 2481 0272; SK Slavia Praha Address: Letenské Sady 32, Praha 7 Phone: 370 391.

Things To Do On The River

• Dine on a terrace at the Kampa Park Restaurant BNa Kampě 8b Phone: 5731 3493, overlooking the Vltava.
• Take a pleasure cruise with buffet lunch and live music. EVD, departing from Čehův most Phone: 231 0208.
• Take a stroll around the islands: Kampa (Malá Strana), Veslarský ostrov (Podoli), Císařská Louka (Smíchov), Slovanský ostrov Žofín (Nové Město).
• Hire a rowing boat from Rent-A-Boat Address: Slovanský ostrov (with lanterns at night) or Address: Půjčovna Romana Holana (daytime only).
• Feed the waterbirds on the Čertovka river.

Views of Prague

• From 'the metronome' on Letna Gardens - there used to be a statue of Stalin here.
• Across the Malá Strana from the Observatory in Petřín Park.
• Along the Vltava River valley from the ramparts of Vyšehrad.
• Views of Prague Castle and Hradčany from the Charles Bridge Tower (Old Town).
• Across the Staré Město from the tower of the Town Hall.