Start at Piazza Garibaldi on the Gianicolo.

Follow the road southeast, past the busts of heroes of the Risorgimento, to the gateway, turn left down the staircase.

But first look at the monumental baroque Fontana Paola, where people once washed their clothes.

Follow the road down past the Spanish Embassy and turn left on Via Garibaldi. Go to the bottom where, to the left, is Porta Settimiana (1498), the gateway pilgrims used to reach the Vatican. Turn right down Via della Scala.

The church of Santa Maria della Scala dates from the late 16th century. Its plain façade hides a rich, cluttered interior.

Continue straight into Piazza San Egidio, past the Museo del Folklore, and turn left, passing Vicolo del Piede and the Pasquino cinema, into Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere.

Here are the church, with its 12th-century mosaics on the façade, and fountain by Carlo Fontana (1692).

Continue straight through the piazza and follow Via della Lungaretta to Piazza Sonnino.

On the right is the 12th-century bell tower of the ancient church of San Crisogono, rebuilt in the 16th century.

Cross the piazza. The left-corner tower is 13th-century and home to the Dante Society. Go on to Piazza di Piscinula, turn left up a staircase along the side of an old palace and cross the Lungotevere to get to Isola Tiberina.

Isola Tiberina somewhat resembles a ship and was a strategic point in ancient times being one of the few points at which the Tiber could be easily crossed.

Cross the island to the Ghetto; on the right is the Synagogue (1874) and a small museum. This area is a good lunch stop.