For lunch you must experience smörgåsbord, a Scandinavian institution, although less common these days. The name translates as smörgås for “bread,” bord for “table.” The reality of a true smörgåsbord means much more than this simple image implies. There may be more than 100 different dishes in a true smörgåsbord, with items ranging from gravad lax (salmon slices in herbs) to köttbullar (tasty meatballs), sillbullar (herring rissoles) or kåldolmar (stuffed cabbage rolls).

Sweden has the same tight control over alcohol sales as does Norway and Finland, and alcohol is expensive. The government-controlled liquor monopoly, Systembolaget, has branches throughout the country, which are open Mon.-Fri. 10-6 (some until 7 or 8 p.m.), Sat. 10-1 (some until 2 or 3). They sell spirits, wines and strong beers; the minimum age to purchase is 20. Light beers can be purchased at grocery stores and super-markets. Try some aquavit with your food. The beverage is distilled from grain or potatoes and is then given added taste with spices or herbs. Drink small quantities, consumed in one gulp.

July is a popular month for vacations in Sweden. You will find the countryside and coast very busy, and especially populated with Swedes.

Swedish design is world famous, especially in silver, ceramics, glassware and stainless steel. The Småland area in southeast Sweden is particularly noted for its fine glassware. Stores such as NK in Stockholm's Hamngatan have good selections of glassware, as does Nordiska Kristall, a store in Österlånggatan.

Home furnishings are a Swedish specialty. Visit the world's biggest IKEA store at Kungens Kurva, outside Stockholm. A free bus leaves Mon.-Fri. every hour between 11 and 5 from Regeringsgatan, the street leading north from Hamngatan, a short distance east of the NK department store. Or try the very stylish Nordiska Galleriet, in Nybrogatan.

Don't miss the lively Stockolm Jazz Festival, a six-day event held in mid-July. People flock to Skeppsholmen, Stockholm to listen to world-famous Swedish and international artists and groups playing jazz, blues, soul and Latin American music.

In big cities you'll find public restrooms along some main streets, in main subway stations and in some department stores. Signs are Damer for ladies and Herrar for men. If there is an attendant the charge is normally between 1SKr and 5SKr.