The busy town of Lopburi, about 150km north of Bangkok, has a long history. Originally settled by Mon people, it was an important bastion of Dvaravati culture from as early as AD 600, before being conquered, in turn, by the Khmer Empire and the Thais. In the mid-17th century Lopburi was used as a second capital by King Narai, who built a summer palace there.

Today Lopburi is conveniently divided into western and eastern sections. The former includes the old town as well as earlier Khmer ruins. To the east the new town is the site of the provincial offices and the best hotels.

Start a walk around Lopburi at Narai's palace, which was abandoned soon after his death and not restored until the mid-19th century. The palace exhibits both French and Khmer architectural influences, as well as Central Thai.

Enter Narai's palace through the main gate (Pratu Phayakkha) and stroll through the well-kept grounds. To the left are the elephant stables.

The palace took 12 years to build (1665-77), and comprised a royal temple, harem buildings, audience halls, administrative buildings and kitchens. The Lopburi National Museum here has an outstanding collection of Mon and Khmer period statuary. To the east of the palace grounds is Wat Phra Si Ratana Mahathat, a 12th-century Khmer temple restored by the Fine Arts Department.

Walk east a short distance to the railroad station, then north along Thanon Na Phra Kan.

To the right is Wat Nakhon Kosa, a 12th-century Khmer temple, which may once have been dedicated to Hinduism.

Keep walking north across the roundabout.

In the middle of the roundabout is San Phra Kan, a shrine dedicated to Kala, the Hindu god of death and time. The shrine swarms with the monkeys for which Lopburi is famous. They can be bad-tempered so avoid being bitten!

Continue north along Thanon Na Phra Kan.

On the right is Prang Sam Yot, another Khmer-built Hindu temple that has long since been dedicated to Buddhism.