Inspector 66 / AAA
IntroductionIgnore the “Don't Mess with Texas” bumper stickers—San Antonio's a great place to mess around in while seeing the sights. Indulge in a hearty Mexican breakfast (huevos rancheros, anyone?), then take in a few of the city's serene old missions or a world-class art collection housed in a Spanish Colonial mansion. A crossroads to southern Texas and Mexico, this city is Tex-Mex at its best—complete with local sidewinders wearing ten-gallon hats and mariachi songs spicing up balmy spring evenings. Plus, there's amazing countryside peppered by oak, mesquite and cacti to boot. Bienvenidos to Fiesta City!
Remember the Alamo? In this famous 1836 skirmish, Mexican soldiers tried to mess with you-know-what. Erected as a mission centuries ago, the Alamo—the cornerstone of San Antonio's proud cultural heritage—stands in the middle of town. After visiting this sacred Texan site, take a stroll along San Antonio's other must-see, the River Walk (in Spanish, Paseo del Río). Tranquil parks, hip cafés and plenty of shops line this stretch of the San Antonio River, which winds through the heart of the city.
Celina Garcia / AAA
Mess with Texas, indeed. Olé!
In DepthTouted as Texas' top travel destination, San Antonio reels in more than 32 million visitors annually. Those who journey here come in search of everything from tempting Tex-Mex cuisine to exhilarating SeaWorld San Antonio and Six Flags Fiesta Texas thrill rides. But San Antonio's appeal doesn't end at fajitas and roller coasters.
The Alamo, a source of pride for Texans, remains the city's shining star. The former Spanish mission, the first built along the San Antonio River, changed hands many times before misfortune elevated it to iconic status.
When the Texas Revolution barreled into the compound in 1836, the Alamo was a makeshift garrison manned by Texians, the local inhabitants fighting for independence from Mexico. Seeking control of San Antonio de Béxar (modern-day San Antonio), Mexico's dictator, Gen. Antonio López de Santa Anna, sent a large army to overtake the fort. The Alamo's defenders, a vastly outnumbered band of fewer than 200, fought valiantly to their deaths, staving off their attackers for nearly a fortnight.
With its soldiers proclaiming “Remember the Alamo!” the Texian Army defeated Santa Anna's troops at the short-lived Battle of San Jacinto. Perhaps inspired by this rallying cry, the Daughters of the Republic of Texas began their own crusade to save the historic site around the turn of the 19th century, using personal funds and donations. In 1939, just outside walls so bravely protected, the Texas Centennial Commission erected the carved grey marble Alamo Cenotaph as a memorial to the outpost's slain guardians.
Reverent travelers stroll the site today to learn about the heroes who gave their lives in pursuit of liberty. In the old chapel, where many of the last freedom fighters fell, are some of their belongings: co-commander William B. Travis' ring, a period hunting knife like the one wielded by Jim Bowie, and Davy Crockett's buckskin vest. In a courtyard graced by flowering trees and cacti, docents separate fact from fiction while detailing events that occurred more than a century prior.
“Alamo City” also goes by the nickname “River City” thanks to its other prized possession, the River Walk. This picturesque stretch came into being after a period of heartache—in 1921, the San Antonio River overflowed during a violent storm, killing 50 people.
To prevent future tragedies, city officials wanted to create a giant storm drain by paving over the section of the untamed river cutting through downtown. The women of the San Antonio Conservation Society fought this idea, turning the tide in favor of a flood-control program. Soon afterward, architect Robert H. H. Hugman began advocating his plan for a waterside urban park that included dams and channels, footbridges and street-access stairways.
Hugman's vision became a reality in 1941, and today, sightseers find food and fun beside the San Antonio River. At the water's edge, majestic bald cypresses shade preening ducks, while the colorful umbrellas of Casa Rio, the River Walk's oldest restaurant, provide shelter to margarita-sipping patrons. Passing barge captains detail the history of the canal-like waterway, ferrying more than 1 million people through this oasis each year.
The city's Catholic Hispanic traditions are the highlight of San Antonio Missions National Historical Park. At the park's four well-worn Spanish missions, contemporary worshipers carry out age-old rituals, along with newer customs. After spirited Sunday services, locals crowd festive Market Square, the largest Mexican marketplace north of the border. This colorful bazaar takes on new life during such special events as April's 11-day Fiesta San Antonio.
By CarSeveral of the country's more important transcontinental highways crisscross San Antonio.
The principal north-south route is I-35, heavy with traffic to and from the Mexican border and funneling an assortment of travelers from as far north as Lake Superior, near the Canadian border. US 281, similar in length and termini, carries a lighter flow of traffic. Sharing a frequently identical path with I-35 through much of Texas is US 81.
US 87 angles on a northwest-southeast course, bringing traffic from the ranches, the Great Plains and points along the Gulf of Mexico. US 181 also channels travelers from the Gulf area, but neither this nor US 87 is any match for I-37, a fast, wide link between San Antonio and Corpus Christi.
The major east-west route, I-10, connects San Antonio with the Atlantic and Pacific oceans. US 90 parallels and frequently merges with I-10 east of the city but maintains a separate course through much of West Texas.
These routes converge in San Antonio's center, enclosing the heart of downtown, part of the river and Hemisfair, and providing easy access to major streets within the area. Farther out, I-410 is a completely circumferential highway that defines the outer limits of the city, interchanging not only with major highways but also with local streets.
Note: There are no service stations in downtown San Antonio.
Street SystemThe street system of downtown San Antonio was laid out more than 150 years ago, and in many instances follows old cattle trails. Because the system has been described as being roughly similar to a skillet of snakes, you should study a city map before starting out.
The speed limit on most streets is 30 mph or as posted. Freeway limits range from 40 to 75 mph. Rush hours generally are from 7 to 9 a.m. and 4 to 6:30 p.m. Right turns on red are permitted unless otherwise posted.
Use the circumferential loops to reach the different parts of the city. San Antonio is surrounded by two loops—Loop 1604 surrounds the outskirts, whereas I-410 encompasses the city's midsection. Interstates 10, 35 and 37 converge in the heart of San Antonio, forming another unofficial loop.
The proximity of most downtown attractions and accommodations to the San Antonio River prompts many visitors to use the River Walk or the boat taxis instead of driving. The outskirts of San Antonio tend to conform more closely to a grid pattern.
ParkingAlthough some metered parking is available in certain downtown areas, public parking lots and garages are more plentiful throughout the city. Rates range from $1-$2 per half-hour to $5-$18 per day.
About the City
Sales TaxMunicipalities may impose additional rates of up to 2 percent on the statewide 6.25 percent sales tax. Sales tax in the city of San Antonio is 8.25 percent; rates vary in the suburbs. The hotel occupancy tax is 16.75 percent.
Whom To Call
Police (non-emergency)(210) 207-7273
Fire (non-emergency)(210) 207-7744
HospitalsBaptist Medical Center, (210) 297-7000; Metropolitan Methodist Hospital, (210) 757-2200; Mission Trail Baptist Hospital, (210) 297-3000; Northeast Baptist Hospital, (210) 297-2000; University Hospital, (210) 358-4000.
Where To Look and Listen
NewspapersSan Antonio prints one daily newspaper, the San Antonio Express-News.
RadioSan Antonio radio station WOAI (1200 AM) is an all-news/weather station; KSTX (89.1 FM) is a member of National Public Radio.
Visitor InformationSan Antonio Visitor Information Center 317 Alamo Plaza SAN ANTONIO, TX 78205. Phone:(210)207-6700 or (800)447-3372
Air TravelSan Antonio International Airport (SAT), 7 miles north of downtown via Broadway Avenue, I-410 and SR 281, is served by U.S. and Mexican airlines. Taxis into the city charge $29-$35 depending on the departure point.
Rental CarsHertz, (210) 841-8800 or (800) 654-3080, offers discounts to AAA members.
Rail ServiceThe Amtrak station is at 350 Hoefgen Ave.; for train schedule and ticket information phone (210) 223-3226 or (800) 872-7245.
BusesThe Greyhound Lines Inc. bus terminal is at 500 N. St. Mary's St.; phone (210) 270-5868 or (800) 231-2222.
TaxisSan Antonio taxis are metered. The average fare is $2.50 when you enter the cab plus $2.45 for each mile. A $1 surcharge is added for trips between 9 p.m. and 5 a.m. Four passengers can ride for a single fare. The major company is Yellow Cab, (210) 222-2222. Boat taxis travel the river's downtown loop daily 9-9 (weather permitting). A one-way fare is $10, an all-day fare is $12, and a 3-day fare is $25. Phone (210) 244-5700 or (800) 417-4139.
Public TransportationVIA Metropolitan Transit provides public transportation consisting of buses and streetcars. Buses are routed through all sections of town; one bus even whisks shoppers from mall to mall on I-410. Express buses run daily from 6:30 to 9:30 a.m. Vintage streetcars travel three main city routes daily from 7 a.m. to 9 p.m. or later, swinging by attractions, shopping areas and other key locations about every 10 minutes.
The fare for basic bus and streetcar service is $1.20; 60c (ages 5-11 and 62+). The express bus fare is $2.50; $1.25 (ages 5-11 and 62+). Each transfer is 15c; 7c (ages 5-11 and 62+). Exact change is required. A one-day pass offering unlimited bus and streetcar service costs $4 and is available at the San Antonio Visitor Center or any VIA Information and Transit Center. For schedules, routing and other information phone (210) 362-2020 or TTY (210) 362-2019.
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EssentialsNo visit to San Antonio is complete without a stroll along the River Walk (E. Commerce Street); besides, this longtime attraction is pretty tough to avoid. Threading through downtown, the pedestrian stretch alongside the San Antonio River features cobblestone paths and garden-bedecked banks 20 feet below street level. Rio San Antonio Cruises (315 E. Commerce St.) offers visitors an overview of the canal-like waterway, though some are content to simply people watch, with a margarita in hand.
Shop for handcrafted gifts at La Villita (418 Villita St.), Alamo City's first neighborhood. Today, scores of artisans, from glassblowers to weavers to leather workers, sell their wares in this historic area encompassing shaded patios, lively plazas, brick streets and adobe buildings.
At The Pearl (302 Pearl Pkwy.), a more modern shopping experience awaits, replete with innovative eateries, a farmer's market on weekends, eclectic shops and live entertainment at its riverside amphitheater. A walk along the Museum Reach, a section of the River Walk, will take you straight to The Pearl.
Zoom high into the clouds on the glass-walled elevator that climbs to the top of the Tower of the Americas (739 E. César E. Chávez Blvd.). Built for the 1968 World's Fair, the 750-foot-tall Hemisfair (222 S. Alamo St.) landmark attracts visitors with a sky-high revolving restaurant and an observation deck, both of which provide panoramic views of the city.
“GO Spurs GO!” The fiery rallying cry for San Antonio's professional basketball team thunders throughout the AT&T Center (1 AT&T Center Pkwy.) on game days. Order tickets in advance, and be sure to pack something—preferably a black, white and silver ensemble supporting these Texas champs—to get into the spirit of the occasion.
Sidle up to the bar at the Buckhorn Saloon & Museum (318 E. Houston St.) and see how many of the 520 wall-mounted species you can identify. The collection started in the 1880s, when cowboys fresh off the trail traded deer antlers for whiskey shots. Nowadays you'll have to plunk down hard cash for your libations, but if the stiff drinks don't have you seeing double, the eclectic museum, which features a two-headed calf and an eight-legged lamb, surely will.
Follow your nose to Mi Tierra Café Y Panadería (218 Produce Row), a 24-hour restaurant and bakery known for its sweet bread, Mexican candies and strolling musicians. After your meal, head to Market Square (514 W. Commerce St.), the Mexican marketplace Mi Tierra calls home. Encircled by a kaleidoscope of colors created by piñatas, paper flowers and folklorico dancers in rainbow skirts, you'll no doubt find just the right souvenir to take home.
To describe something first-rate or excellent, Theodore Roosevelt favored the word “bully”; it's likely he used this adjective frequently in the cherry-paneled bar at The Historic Menger Hotel (204 Alamo Plaza), where he recruited many of his Rough Riders. The elegant 1859 hotel, which has hosted presidents and celebrities, maintains many of its original architectural features. It's also said to be haunted by the ghosts of several past guests and employees.
The Spanish Governor's Palace (105 Plaza de Armas), though never home to a governor, was built in 1722 and is one of the last remnants of Spanish aristocratic life in 18th-century Texas. The one-story masonry house boasts private gardens and period-decorated interiors.
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Top Picks for Kids
Under 13Hands-on learning—whether it involves operating a pint-size front-end loader, mining for gems, milking a cow or opening a bank account—is the name of the game at The DoSeum (2800 Broadway St.). Kids can also create art, watch themselves on a video screen and climb to the tippy-top of a tree for an awesome view of the museum's three floors.
One Brackenridge Park (3700 N. St. Mary's St.) highlight is the San Antonio Zoo (3903 N. St. Mary's St.), where an abandoned limestone quarry's cliffs provide natural habitats for more than 9,000 creatures. Kids will have a ball riding the miniature train, exploring the aquarium and reptile house, and meeting endangered animals like Komodo dragons and white rhinos.
At Natural Bridge Wildlife Ranch (26515 Natural Bridge Caverns Rd.), you can get up close and personal with even more animals without ever leaving your car. You'll pick up a free bag of feed at the entrance gate and use it to lure ostriches, emus, llamas, zebras and other curious critters to your open windows during a 4-mile, drive-through safari adventure.
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In Alamo Plaza there are six Ripley's attractions that'll guarantee a good time. If you can only hit one, opt for the mind-bending Guinness World Records Museum (329 Alamo Plaza) with 16 exhibit galleries.
All AgesYou'll never run out of things to do at the city's “it” spot—the River Walk (E. Commerce Street). Shop, learn fun facts about the San Antonio River on a Rio San Antonio Cruises boat tour (315 E. Commerce St.), or just meander along the breezy waterfront pathways. Refuel under a crayon-colored umbrella outside Casa Rio Mexican Restaurant (430 E. Commerce St.), the River Walk's oldest restaurant.
Don't pass up a trip to SeaWorld San Antonio (10500 SeaWorld Dr.), home to dolphins, sea lions, penguins and a whole bunch of other finned, furry and feathered friends. What's more, the park offers adrenaline-pumping roller coasters and water rides as well as spectacular shows that will make anyone ooh and aah.
Keeping the clan content all day long, Six Flags Fiesta Texas (17000 I-10W) celebrates Texas and the Southwest with live entertainment, thrill and family-style rides and a number of themed areas. The park's setting—the interior of a former rock quarry with 100-foot walls—is an attraction in and of itself. If you're visiting during the summer season, bring your swimsuit and prepare to splash and slide at White Water Bay.
Check out Brackenridge Park's curiosity-piquing Witte Museum (3801 Broadway St.), whose top-notch exhibits spotlight South Texas history, science and culture. You'll find mummies, dinosaur bones and creepy crawlers galore, and there's even a four-story tree house that lets you experiment with sound, weather and electricity.
Opportunities for outdoor fun are endless at Landa Park (110 Golf Course Rd. in New Braunfels ). Float down the Comal River on an inner tube, take a dip in a spring-fed swimming hole, or rent a paddleboat on Landa Lake and give those legs a workout. If you'd rather play on dry land, other diversions include fishing, putt-putt, a nature hike and a miniature-train ride.
You don't need an invitation to attend the city's biggest and best bash of the year—April's Fiesta San Antonio. What started out as a parade held in remembrance of fallen Texas heroes has mushroomed into an 11-day affair featuring carnivals, parades, fireworks, street dances, sports competitions and ethnic eats.
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ShoppingFor Macy's and other national chains, follow the mall rats to a complex on the River Walk called Rivercenter , 849 E. Commerce St., with an IMAX theater and more than 100 restaurants and stores. Weary shopaholics find respite on the steps of the mall's lagoon, where the musical group Andean Fusion puts a New Age spin on Incan sounds Monday through Saturday. You'll also find a smorgasbord of memento-browsing opportunities elsewhere along the San Antonio River. Here lollygagging tourists flaunt newly purchased wares—from T-shirts touting Texas virtues to trucker hats promoting the Lone Star State's unofficial don't-mess-with-us policy, a popular slogan that evolved from a highway anti-littering campaign.
You may spot a few “Don't Mess with Texas” road signs on your way to San Antonio's favorite shopping destination: I-410, known locally as Loop 410. Ingram Park Mall , 6301 N.W. Loop 410, with Dillard's, JCPenney, Macy's and Sears, is along the northern arc of this route, as is North Star Mall , 7400 San Pedro Ave., which lays claim to the world's largest set of cowboy boots. Thanks to the 40-foot-tall sculpture, you'll have no trouble navigating to the stomping grounds of such upscale retailers as A|X Armani Exchange, Saks Fifth Avenue and White House/Black Market. Rustle up a few goodies then seek out the nearby smokestacks of Alamo Quarry Market , 255 E. Basse Rd., built on the site of a long-gone cement plant. At this open-air commercial plaza, you'll peruse everything from fine leather Lucchese boots to organic and recycled clothing from Whole Earth Provision Co.
The Shops at La Cantera , 15900 La Cantera Pkwy. next to Six Flags Fiesta Texas, presents an award-winning architectural blend of natural and man-made elements. Anchored by Dillard's, Macy's, Neiman Marcus and Nordstrom, the sophisticated center combines al fresco shopping with the traditional layout of an indoor mall. Along shaded walkways, Texan moms and daughters tote Abercrombie & Fitch and White House/Black Market purchases past waterfalls, lush greenery and a tiki-themed children's play area. Plus, everyone in the family will appreciate La Cantera's abundance of casual eateries, though the Yard House, where classic rock and draft beers rule, inevitably is the boys' first choice. To the east, on the opposite side of I-10/US 87, The Rim retail hub features Bass Pro Shops Outdoor World, JCPenney and an array of specialty stores.
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Although Market Square has been central to the community since the 1900s, La Villita holds the title of oldest neighborhood in the city, having sheltered, at various times, Coahuiltecan Indians, Spanish soldiers and their families, and 19th-century European immigrants. With its cobblestone streets and quaint adobe and Victorian houses filled with handicrafts and artwork, the restored village serves as a leisurely detour for vacationers exploring the River Walk. The compact shopping venue at S. Alamo and E. Nueva streets also is accessible via the VIA streetcar system.
When you find yourself in need of a good farmer's-market fix, head to the Pearl Weekend Market , 312 Pearl Pkwy., where locally produced vittles fill more than 45 booths. In front of the Pearl Pavilion, the market is open Sat. 9-1 and Sun. 10-2. Produce and meats are featured on Saturdays; on Sundays, choose from homemade products like sauces, soaps, honey, candy, pet treats and pickles. The market is just one part of The Pearl , a shopping and entertainment district at 302 Pearl Pkwy., which also offers an assortment of eateries as well as boutiques where you can stock up on au courant apparel, jewelry, gifts and books; phone (210) 212-7260.
If the Texas heat has you longing for shade, head to Paris Hatters —you'll be following in the footsteps of Hollywood stars (Matt Damon and Tommy Lee Jones), rock gods (Eric Clapton and Paul McCartney) and world leaders (Pope John Paul II, Dwight Eisenhower and Harry Truman). Family owned and operated since 1917, this timeless operation just northwest of the Alamo at 119 Broadway St. keeps customers feeling and looking cool in stylish custom-fitted hats ranging from $20 to $7,000.
Vestiges of the past permeate San Antonio, so it's not surprising to see local history branded on assorted souvenirs sold in the area's many nondescript gift shops. At Alamo Plaza , a handful of stores fronting the Alamo hawk miniature versions of the mission-turned-fort as well as coffee mugs emblazoned with the poignant “Remember the Alamo!” battle cry.
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NightlifeWhen it's time to let loose while vacationing in San Antone, there's little need to look much further than the River Walk. Offering access to a variety of clubs, casual watering holes and late-night restaurants, winding pathways along the banks of the San Antonio River are the liveliest means of traversing downtown after dark.
Most River Walk action is centered on the U-shaped channel (some call it “Horseshoe Bend” or the “River Loop”) that shoots off the river's main north-south artery. With bass-thumping spots concentrated between Presa and Commerce streets, barkers poised by bar entrances try their best to entice passersby, though their shouts are muffled by the roar of raucous twentysomethings already partying inside. Drifting from Howl at the Moon , 111 W. Crockett St., the dynamic sounds of dueling pianos lure those seeking high-energy nighttime entertainment; phone (210) 212-4770. Next door, Hard Rock Cafe draws a more laid-back clientele with its rock 'n' roll memorabilia and juicy burgers; phone (210) 224-7625.
The Paseo del Alamo, an extension of the River Walk built in 1981, flows through the atrium of the Hyatt Regency San Antonio River Walk and allows access to the Alamo. And, when the stars come out deep in the heart of Texas, thirsty revelers also use this shortcut to reach the Menger Bar , 204 Alamo Plaza. At the onset of the Spanish-American War, Theodore Roosevelt recruited many of his Rough Riders in this London-style pub, an 1887 addition to the Menger Hotel adorned with cherrywood paneling and beveled mirrors. Peruse the inn's well-kept collection of historical photographs and relics, then sip some cognac in the dimly lit bar. Of course, with the hotel rumored to be haunted, the fainthearted may want to settle their tabs before the witching hour strikes; phone (210) 223-4361.
Nearby, you'll find a 19th-century building that served as a USO center during World War II. The revamped edifice now houses Bonham Exchange , 411 Bonham St., where youthful club goers shake their booties through a maze of packed dance floors Wednesday through Saturday nights. Popular with gay San Antonians, the cavernous nightclub attracts a diverse crowd with cheap drinks, weekly dance contests and special celeb guests—from RuPaul to Charles Barkley; phone (210) 271-3811.
For a few laughs, add the Improv Comedy Club–San Antonio Rivercenter , on the third level of the Rivercenter at 849 E. Commerce St., to your evening agenda; phone (210) 229-1420 for show times.
Quinn Dombrowski / flickr
If you've officially added the River Walk to your been-there-done-that list, here are a few options.
Just a few miles north of the River Walk is The Pearl, San Antonio's newest destination for entertainment and shopping. Step into Jazz TX , 312 Pearl Pkwy., and do some two-stepping on the dance floor while a live band plays. Don't let the name fool you though; depending on the night, you can also twirl to Texas swing, blues, salsa, Americana, conjunto or big band sounds. Phone (210) 332-9386. The Pearl is also home to High Street Wine Co. , a wine bar and shop, and Blue Box Bar , which features handcrafted cocktails, including some inexplicably named after David Bowie songs; phone (210) 908-9144 or (210) 227-2583, respectively.
Those who adore craft beers and homemade sodas should hit up the Blue Star Brewing Co. , 1414 S. Alamo St. in the Blue Star Arts Complex. (The arts complex is in the Southtown district on the south channel of the River Walk, but unless you're lodging nearby, it's easiest to drive or take a taxi there.) On select nights, jazz musicians jam at the funky brewery, but any day of the week newcomers can sample ales and lagers alongside the usual clientele of artisans and undergrads. Tickle your tongue with a preservative-free, sugar cane-sweetened orange cream soft drink, or choose from the plentitude of beers on tap, including the Texican, Blue Star's homage to Mexican-style lagers; phone (210) 212-5506.
Bohemian Southtown encompasses residential neighborhoods as well as the commercial corridors of S. Alamo, S. St. Mary's and S. Presa streets. While several area restaurants offer live entertainment and after-dinner dancing, the hip set practice their salsa and merengue moves at spicy establishments like Azúca Nuevo Latina , 713 S. Alamo St., and Rosario's , 910 S. Alamo St. Phone (210) 225-5550 for Azúca Nuevo Latina or (210) 223-1806 for Rosario's.
Outside the city, two music venues are especially worth the trip: Gruene Hall , about 40 minutes northeast of San Antonio in New Braunfels at 1281 Gruene Rd., and the John T. Floore Country Store , about 30 minutes northwest of town in Helotes at 14492 Old Bandera Rd. Cowboy boots still stomp weathered wood floors at the former, the state's oldest dance hall, while at the latter, a traditional Texas honky-tonk opened in 1942, audiences have swooned over the likes of Patsy Cline, Willie Nelson and the King of Rock ‘n' Roll. Phone (830) 606-1281 for Gruene Hall or (210) 695-8827 for the John T. Floore Country Store.
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Performing ArtsOne of the few remaining movie and vaudeville theaters in the country, the Majestic, has been restored and revived as the Majestic Theatre, 224 E. Houston St. Touring Broadway productions and concerts are presented throughout the year; phone (210) 226-3333.
Lila Cockrell Theatre at the Henry B. González Convention Center, Alamo and Market streets, is the scene of concerts, including pop, rock and jazz; phone (210) 207-8500 or (877) 504-8895 for schedule and tickets. The forum for instrumental soloists is Laurie Auditorium, on the campus of Trinity University, 1 Stadium Dr.; phone (210) 999-8119.
Strolling mariachi bands perform in the Mexican Market area along the River Walk.
Beethoven Maennerchor Halle, (210) 222-1521, and Lila Cockrell Theatre, (210) 207-8500, feature traveling dancers, including ballet troupes.
Trinity University's drama department presents several productions a year in its Jane and Arthur Stieren Theater. Ticket information can be obtained by phoning (210) 999-8515. Other colleges and the military bases occasionally produce theatrical shows.
Community theater also has a role in San Antonio's cultural environment. Presentations are held at The Playhouse San Antonio, in San Pedro Park at Ashby Street and San Pedro Avenue; phone (210) 733-7258. Harlequin Dinner Theater, at Fort Sam Houston in Building 2652 on Harney Road, also offers performances; phone (210) 222-9694.
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Bus and Trolley Tours
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Walking ToursThe downtown loop of the San Antonio River provides unusual ways to see a portion of the city. The River Walk, which follows the riverbanks, affords walkers a leisurely view of downtown.
The San Antonio Conservation Society offers several self-guiding walking-tour brochures, including the Texas Star Trail and King William Historic District. Beginning at the Alamo, the 2.6-mile Texas Star Trail follows a signed route through the downtown area. The tour of the King William district spotlights many elegant Victorian houses built by prosperous German merchants during the mid-19th century. For more information, contact the Conservation Society at the Wulff House, 107 King William St., San Antonio, TX 78204; phone (210) 224-6163.
More walking tours are offered by the city of San Antonio, including Houston Street, featuring commercial architecture on nine blocks, and S. Alamo and S. St. Mary's streets, with late 19th- and early 20th-century homes; phone (210) 215-9274.
Beginning downtown, signs designate the Mission Trail, an 8-mile route linking the Alamo with the four sites of the San Antonio Missions National Historical Park.
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San Antonio in 3 DaysThree days is barely enough time to get to know any major destination. But AAA travel editors suggest these activities to make the most of your time in San Antonio.
Day 1: MorningBegin at the Spanish Governor's Palace on Commerce Street. Be sure to spend some time outdoors, as the formal landscaped gardens are lovely.
Continue west on Commerce Street to El Mercado (a.k.a. Market Square ) and peruse colorful Mexican arts and crafts in the stalls.
Day 1: AfternoonReturn to Market Square for lunch at Mi Tierra Café Y Panadería , a landmark Tex-Mex restaurant established in 1941. Sample the succulent fajitas and, for dessert, the delectable flan. For another take on Tex-Mex cuisine, try La Margarita . Their oysters on the half shell are a favorite with those in the know.
After you've grabbed a bite and a souvenir or two, walk a few blocks east to experience the River Walk . This is the town's main artery, and many would argue that it's the heart and soul of San Antone. It's impossible to visit the city without walking or riding along this picturesque stretch of the San Antonio River as it meanders through downtown. Find an access stairway leading down and start sightseeing via the River Walk's lush, breezy walkways.
While leisurely strolls on the River Walk certainly are relaxing, you also can use this planned attraction to reach some of San Antonio's most treasured points of interest. For starters, take the Paseo del Alamo extension to get to The Alamo ; from early to mid-afternoon the crowds aren't as heavy at the revered historical site. Pore over the artifacts exhibited in the Long Barrack Museum but don't overlook the amazing grounds planted with flora from four different ecological zones.
Next, take Alamo Street south to La Villita —the oldest neighborhood in the city now shelters an arts and crafts community. The Spanish Colonial architecture is magnificent; plus, there are plenty of glassblowers, potters, weavers and leather workers to watch practicing their craft.
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Day 1: EveningRemain at the Tower of the Americas for dinner at Chart House , which rotates 360 degrees to give diners spectacular views of the city, or head back to the River Walk, where there's no shortage of restaurants suitable for any palate or budget. The zesty aromas of Spanish specialties fill the air at Las Canarias Restaurant inside the Omni La Mansión del Rio. For those who prefer a casual meal, local institution Schilo's Delicatessen delivers homey platters showcasing such German favorites as Wiener schnitzel and bratwurst.
Day 2: MorningIt's best to drive to San Antonio Missions National Historical Park , located south of downtown San Antonio. The park comprises four 18th-century missions founded by the Franciscans, all of which are still active parishes. Individual locations boast park stations that provide historical information and driving directions. The Mission Trail starts with Mission Nuestra Señora de la Purísima Concepción de Acuña and each subsequent mission is 2-3 miles away. You'll discover the architecture and heritage of Mission San José y San Miguel de Aguayo , Mission San Juan Capistrano and Mission San Francisco de la Espada , and, if it's Sunday, you can attend the exuberant Mariachi Mass at Mission San José y San Miguel de Aguayo.
Day 2: AfternoonAfter spending the morning touring missions, mosey over to N. Presa Street to the café at the Buckhorn Saloon & Museum for a burger, some catfish or a rib eye. After lunch, walk through the museum for a glimpse of wildlife oddities and more than 4,000 mounted animal horns.
Next, head to The Historic Menger Hotel for some refreshments from the Menger Bar, where Theodore Roosevelt recruited many of the Rough Riders. This gorgeous building houses displays about the dignitary and also is rumored to be haunted.
Day 2: EveningAt sunset, return to the River Walk for a slow cruise down the waterway; the knowledgeable tour guides employed by Rio San Antonio Cruises enhance the beautiful scenery with facts and curious tidbits about the canal-like river.
When your stomach starts rumbling, try the casual Mexican cuisine of Rio Rio Cantina —it's worth the wait for a table at this festive eatery on the water's edge. The rellenos, a house specialty, are perfect paired with one or two of Rio Rio's signature margaritas.
Or, if you're in search of something swanky, relocate your evening fiesta to the downtown theater district, where the Majestic and Empire theaters offer concerts and other cultural performances. For dinner, luxe Bohanan's Prime Steaks & Seafood boasts a super-accommodating waitstaff and an impressive wine list, while Houston St. Bistro serves seriously savory pastas and soups in a relaxed setting.
Day 3: MorningDrive north of downtown to The McNay Art Museum , where you'll spend the first half of the morning with Cézanne, Matisse and O'Keeffe. Then, make your way to the San Antonio Botanical Garden to enjoy flourishing gardens, pretty landscaping and diverse habitats.
Day 3: AfternoonFor lunch, stop at chic Cappy's for an oak-grilled Kobe burger or a cup of New Orleans-style gumbo; a full belly will help you to focus while you're perusing the noteworthy exhibits of the San Antonio Museum of Art . Highlights include the Nelson A. Rockefeller Center for Latin American Art and the extensive Asian art collection, which spans nearly 6,000 years.
If you still have some energy, explore the 25-block King William Historic District. Affluent German merchants settled in this area in the late 1800s; a map detailing a self-guiding tour is available from the San Antonio Conservation Society, 107 King William St.
Day 3: EveningSince your legs probably need a rest by now, give your lungs a workout instead by cheering on the NBA Spurs at the AT&T Center. If the four-time NBA Finals champs aren't playing, spend one last evening at the River Walk nibbling on exotic Texan fare at upscale Boudro's on the Riverwalk . Or, for something more laid-back, your choices include The Cactus Flower , near the Alamo in the San Antonio Marriott Riverwalk , and Charlie Wants a Burger , which serves a variety of hunger-stomping dishes, from fajitas to sandwiches.
AttractionsIn a city with dozens of attractions, you may have trouble deciding where to spend your time. Here are the highlights for this destination, as chosen by AAA editors. GEMs are “Great Experiences for Members.”
In San Antonio, you'll find a historic and cosmopolitan southwestern city of diverse cultures—Native American, African-American, Tejano (Texans of Mexican descent) and German, to name just a few. Whether you're into the arts or history, or you're looking for rollicking entertainment, this south Texas city is the place to be.
So, you've got your camera and walking shoes, but where do you start? At The Alamo, of course. This AAA GEM attraction is arguably the most famous of Texas' many historic sites. Formerly the Misión San Antonio de Valero, the compound served as a makeshift garrison during the Texas Revolution. The pivotal Battle of the Alamo, which took place in 1836, was a brutal conflict—for 13 days, a vastly outnumbered band of fewer than 200 Texian defenders held the old mission against Mexican troops. In the end, nearly all of the Alamo's defenders perished, but following the defeat, “Remember the Alamo” became the rallying cry for the Texian Army in its fight for independence from Mexico.
Exploring the Alamo today is a humbling experience. Here Jim Bowie, Davy Crockett and their fellow comrades fought day and night to defend the compound until Mexican troops stormed the grounds on March 6. The site is meticulously preserved, though the chapel and Long Barracks are the only structures from the original fort complex that remain. When you wander among the ruins, you'll certainly feel reverence for the brave men who fought here. You'll also take home a better understanding of that liberty for which the Alamo's defenders gave their lives—freedom.
San Antonio boasts one of the country's largest concentrations of Spanish Colonial missions, all of which date from the early 1700s. Begin your exploration at the visitor center at 6701 San Jose Dr., where you can pick up a driving map of the Mission Trail that connects the four sites comprising San Antonio Missions National Historical Park. A 9-mile route lined with beautiful flowers and mesquite trees, the trail leads south from the Alamo to missions that once were more than mere houses of worship—entire communities thrived inside their walls. As all are still active parishes in the Archdiocese of San Antonio, if you visit any of these sites, please be respectful of worshippers.
Adjacent to the national historical park's visitor center is the stunning Mission San José y San Miguel de Aguayo, the “Queen of Missions.” Established in 1720, this AAA GEM attraction—the only complete mission fort in the chain—is still an impressive complex with restored defensive walls, living quarters, a gristmill, a buttressed granary and the magnificent church. The famous Rose Window on the south side of the mission's sacristy is the epitome of Spanish Colonial ornamentation.
The next site is Mission Nuestra Señora de la Purísima Concepción de Acuña, best known for its frescoes. The handsome church looks much as it did 2 centuries ago. Remarkably, the facade's coloration has survived, although it is a little washed out. These outdoor frescoes blend vibrant Moorish designs and Native American images. Inside, marvel at the conserved wall paintings located in the convento. If these colorful works of art were any indication, this mission was certainly a lively place.
Follow the trail to Mission San Juan Capistrano, with its simple arches, ringing bell tower, tranquil chapel and wild environs. In 1731, San Juan was moved from an earlier location in East Texas. Although this site doesn't have the majesty of the other missions (a larger church was never built), the untamed setting provides a serene atmosphere. A self-guiding nature trail winds through the forest to the banks of the old river channel, where you can sit on a bench and enjoy the peace of nature.
The last stop on the Mission Trail is the Mission San Francisco de la Espada. Like its neighbor, this site also possesses an ancient, isolated feel; however, the beautifully maintained church is very much an integral part of the community. The amazing Arab-inspired aqueduct still works. Dating from 1740, The Espada Acequia System —the best-preserved segment of the missions' irrigation system, or acequias—is about a mile north of the mission.
At the San Antonio Botanical Garden, you can literally stop to smell the roses. The region's sub-tropical climate is perfect for cultivating a wide variety of plants, and this 38-acre AAA GEM attraction will delight any nature lover. Native Texas plants grow in three distinct landscapes—there's even an aquatic garden and a touch and smell garden for the visually impaired. Capping off the formal gardens is a spectacular glass conservatory housing palm trees, orchids, bromeliads and rare tropical specimens.
If you prefer paintings to plants, head to The McNay Art Museum, where you can marvel at Matisse, peer at Picasso, gaze at Van Gogh, seek out Cézanne and ruminate over Rousseau. Housed in a Spanish Colonial Revival-style mansion, this AAA GEM attraction features a wide-ranging collection: post-Impressionist and modern paintings, medieval art and Native American objects.
Ancient, Asian and Latin American masterpieces are the focal point of the San Antonio Museum of Art, another AAA GEM attraction. Interestingly, this museum is located in the castle-like former headquarters of the Lone Star Brewery Co. While you won't find any beer here, a gallery of Greek and Roman sculptures and an impressive Asian section satiate connoisseurs of culture. The Nelson A. Rockefeller Center for Latin American Art contains Mexican folk, modern, pre-Columbian, and Spanish and Colonial art.
If natural history is your thing, spend an afternoon at Brackenridge Park's Witte Museum. This AAA GEM attraction embraces hands-on exploration of ecologically diverse Texas. Indoors, there are dioramas and mummies galore. Outside, you'll walk through log cabins and discover a butterfly and hummingbird museum. Be sure to visit the H-E-B Science Treehouse, which offers four levels of exploration. Testing contraptions and lasers, observing underwater habitats and predicting the weather are just a few of the activities available.
The flags of six countries have flow over Texas: France, Spain, Mexico, Texas Republic, Confederate States of America and the United States. The Institute of Texan Cultures explores these countries' influences as well as the 25-plus ethnic groups that settled in the Lone Star State. Don't miss the multimedia show highlighting Texas' many faces. Investigate the puppet theater, chuck wagon and textile areas. Talk with costumed interpreters who will tell you what it was like to work on a Texas cattle drive or sew clothes for an entire family. You can touch many of the artifacts on display, which makes this AAA GEM attraction a literal hands-on delight.
Speaking of six flags, how about a trip to Six Flags Fiesta Texas ? This amusement park has it all: a water park, musical shows, roller coasters, trains and more. You'll find a ride to suit every mood; you'll shake, rattle and roll, then bounce, laugh, jiggle, glide and jump. And one thing's for sure—you won't forget to smile at this AAA GEM attraction.
For a good scare, Ripley's Haunted Adventure is the ticket. Walk through the pitch dark to encounter sinister ghosts and ghouls, creepy witches and a nightmarish maze from which some may never escape. Located across the street from the Alamo, this high-tech attraction packs an adrenaline punch with its live actors and state-of-the-art animatronics and special effects. You might not want to brave this one alone.
Northwest of the city in rugged Hill Country—and, yes, those really are hills in mostly-flat Texas—you can go spelunking at Natural Bridge Caverns. The massive underground chambers of this AAA GEM attraction contain thousands of formations: stalagmites and stalactites and cool rocks by the ton. Be sure to wear some rubber-soled shoes; the lighted caves are slippery and steep. After spending some time underground, experience a wildlife adventure among the trees (and hills) at the Natural Bridge Wildlife Ranch. Riding in your vehicle, you beckon animals to your window with complimentary feed. At the AAA GEM attraction a number of exotic, native and endangered species may amble up for a treat. It's as if you're on a safari in the wilds of, er, Texas.
More animals await at the San Antonio Zoo in Brackenridge Park, a 343-acre area on both sides of the San Antonio River. The world-renowned 35-acre zoo features outdoor “habitat cages” for many of its residents—an abandoned quarry's limestone cliffs provide natural enclosures for more than 3,000 birds, fish, mammals and other fauna. This AAA GEM attraction has a children's petting area, a reptile house and an aquarium.
Animal lovers, you're not done yet—another must-visit is SeaWorld San Antonio, one of the largest marine life parks in the world. Here are mischievous otters, sunning walruses, friendly dolphins, whiskered sea lions and jumping whales. And there are rides at this AAA GEM attraction, too—three roller coasters, one of which is inverted (it might be a good idea to postpone the hot dog before embarking on this one). In keeping with the water theme, there's also a log flume and a river rapids adventure bound to cool you off in the Texas heat. Shamu the whale, SeaWorld's star, performs daily.
Bookend your San Antone visit with another famous military site, Fort Sam Houston. Named for the first president of the Republic of Texas, it still serves as headquarters for the U.S. Army Medical Command and the Fifth U.S. Army. The fort is steeped in history: Apache warrior Geronimo was held here en route to Florida imprisonment. Stroll the quadrangle, where there are memorials to servicemen and women and the former homes of the Eisenhowers (Mamie and Ike) and Gen. John Joseph Pershing. The fort's museum highlights the history of the post, and the U.S. Army Medical Department Museum has an extensive collection of Army medical equipment.
See all the AAA recommended attractions for this destination.
RestaurantsOur favorites include some of this destination's best restaurants—from fine dining to simple fare.
Self-described as a “Texas bistro,” Boudro's on the Riverwalk is, well, exotically Texan. For starters, order the fresh Gulf lump blue crab cakes dressed with flavorful roasted corn sauce and crunchy jicama slaw, or try the duck and jalapeño sausage gumbo. Main dishes include a citrus soy-marinated Black Angus flank steak as well as smoked shrimp and crab enchiladas, served with black beans, white cheddar and spicy tomato pancakes.
Bohanan's Prime Steaks & Seafood, downtown and across from the Majestic Theatre, features an elegant second-floor dining room complete with crisp white linens, sparkling glasses and well-polished silverware. For an extraordinary culinary experience, begin with the Hudson Valley foie gras, duck confit eggrolls or seared ahi tuna. Continue with a USDA Prime center cut or choose from Bohanan's expertly prepared seafood dishes—standouts include the Chilean sea bass, baked with a Reblochon cheese sauce, and the oven-roasted Alaskan halibut. For the big finale, order a dramatic flaming dessert, such as the bananas foster or the cherries jubilee, prepared tableside by your server.
Boasting deep German roots in the heart of ol' San Antone, Schilo's Delicatessen (pronounced “shee-lows”), has been in operation since 1917. The deli case features loads of cheeses, meats, pastries and marinating vegetables. Order at the handy to-go window and savor the flavor along the River Walk, or find a seat at a wooden table inside, where friendly volk are likely to be feasting on enormous Reubens, pea soup and warm potato salad.
Also offering picture-perfect views of the River Walk, Las Canarias Restaurant presents excellent cuisine from both the New and Old Worlds in refined, dimly lit dining rooms perfect for special occasions or romantic evenings. While the menu changes seasonally, critics consistently commend this restaurant's chefs for their inspired creations. Past plates have included a blue crab-stuffed swordfish topped with a wasabi-tobiko caviar sauce and a five-spice barbecued duck breast served with braised red cabbage, Brussels sprouts and a chocolate kumquat sauce.
With the attentive staff doling out fresh, homey meals at Aldo's Ristorante Italiano, patrons feel like they're in Tuscany rather than south Texas. You'll relish the antipasto—layered with vinegary peppers, meaty prosciutto, dark olives, plump shrimp, Italian cheeses and tender hearts of palm—but be sure to leave room for the lightly breaded chicken parmesan or the grilled trout flavored with capers, lemon butter and artichoke hearts. An outstanding wine list supports Aldo's classic menu. For a sweet nightcap, try a dessert wine or the tiramisu paired with an after-dinner coffee.
The Dry Dock Seafood Oyster Bar gets packed to her gunnels with seafood-loving visitors. Sit at the oyster bar (a must if dining solo) inside the air-conditioned dining room or grab a spot outside on the pleasant terrace before casting off with a cool longneck and a dozen cold naked ones on the shell. Dress those glistening mollusks with a dash of Tabasco and a bit of horseradish and slide 'em down the hatch. Then set a course for the Shrimp Doty, a house specialty served sizzling in a pan. Secure the main smartly with a slice of south Texas-style key lime pie.
India Palace may be small, but the simple eatery's food also is addictive—savor one of their tandoori dishes cooked in a clay oven or the traditional garlic nan and you'll be hooked. Though the authentic Indian cuisine, dancing with exotic scents and seasonings, is served up in a plain Jane strip mall in northwest San Antonio, it's not uncommon to see a line streaming out the door, especially during the restaurant's budget-friendly lunch buffet.
Since the 1940s, San Antonians have been flocking to Grady's Bar-b-que in Balcones Heights. Tender, moist meat—smoked using Texas Hill Country oak—is piled high and served with all the fixings. With so many delicious menu items, you'll likely have trouble deciding what to order. So what's your best bet? Simply ask for a combo plate, which features your choice of two or three meats, along with pinto beans, potato salad and plenty of barbecue sauce, jalapeños and salsa.
As ubiquitous as barbecue joints (perhaps even more so) are Mexican restaurants. Everybody in town has their favorite spot for quesadillas, chile rellenos and fajitas, but for our money Rosario's is as good as any in the city. This Southtown watering hole is lively, loud and colorful (orange walls, interesting paintings and a big semi-circle of a bar). And the food? For starters, the house salsa—brown in color, with a smoky flavor redolent of garlic and chilies—is absolutely addictive. Scarf it down with chips and a freshly whipped-up michelada, a popular Mexican alcoholic beverage that includes lime juice, hot sauce and pepper and comes in a chilled glass rimmed with spiced lemon-lime salt. You can't go wrong with enchiladas de espinacas, tortillas filled with spinach, mushrooms and queso fresco, a mild, creamy white cheese, or chicken topped with a richly flavorful mole sauce that has hints of chocolate and peanut butter. Delicioso!
Catering to nearby Lackland Air Force Base, the diminutive Mina & Dimi's Greek House Restaurant is renowned for great food, fast service and Zorba-like charm. Dimi serves up tangy vegetables and sweet baklavas and creates his own yogurt dressings for salads as well as a tasty lemon-olive oil marinade for the lamb skewers. During lunch and dinner on Fridays, Greek belly dancers add to the charm of this west side eatery.
One of the city's best-kept secrets, Silo Elevated Cuisine Alamo Heights is located in a nondescript, two-story structure (the main entrance is in the back) that looks more like a large telephone utility building than a restaurant. But don't let the establishment's outward appearance fool you—the exterior belies the interior. The city's glitterati are usually hanging out in the ground floor's high-energy lounge, and, if you take the elevator upstairs, you'll find an artsy, but relaxed dining room that features classic American fare. Best bets include the moist, tender, beautifully charred double pork chops and the golden pan-fried flounder. And, for your pre- and post-meal toasts, Silo is on point with one of the city's best wine lists.
See all the AAA Diamond Rated restaurants for this destination.
EventsIn addition to its many cultural and historic landmarks, this destination hosts a number of outstanding festivals and events that may coincide with your visit.
Who needs to ring in the New Year with a lonely little bell? At Celebrate San Antonio , there's music and noisemaking aplenty—you'll hear tunes blaring from multiple stages, count down to midnight with thousands of other horn-blowing revelers and take in an impressive fireworks display showcasing the Tower of the Americas.
When February moseys around, shine up your spurs and gallop on over to the 18-day San Antonio Stock Show & Rodeo for roping, bucking and lassoing rodeo performances. You'll stomp your boots to a doozy of a music lineup; fiddlers, strummers and singers abound. And you'll certainly make time for a little shopping in between events—there are more than 600 vendors selling everything from Old West decor to leather goods. Giddyup, little doggie! More than 2 million rodeo fans attend this event annually.
If you're curious about what life was like during the Battle of the Alamo, visit San Antonio in early March to experience Remembering the Alamo weekend, when the city honors the military garrison's fallen heroes. Both sides of the conflict are chronicled through historical reenactments. You'll definitely “Remember the Alamo” after attending this event.
Shine up your shillelagh and dust off your green bowler when St. Patrick's Day rolls around in Fiesta City; energetic street and river parades prove residents are experts at honoring Ireland's patron saint and at partying. During Murphy's St. Patrick's Day Parade & Festival , the San Antonio River is temporarily renamed the "River Shannon” when it's dyed a bright shamrock green.
Browse the work of more than 100 artists in La Villita during the Starving Artists Show , held the first weekend in April. April also brings San Antonio's biggest party of the year— Fiesta San Antonio . It began back in 1891 with the first fiesta event, the Battle of Flowers, a parade held in remembrance of fallen Texas heroes. Now an 11-day, citywide celebration that takes place the week of San Jacinto Day (April 21), the fiesta has expanded its theme to observe Pan-American cultures, too. Entertainment includes carnivals, concerts, sports competitions, fireworks, ethnic edibles, art exhibits and parades. Possibly the most distinctive features of the celebration—which draws more than 3 million festivalgoers each year—are the cascarones, decorated confetti-filled eggshells sold for the express purpose of being crushed on any heads that happen to be within reach.
Early May—when the sound of mariachis carries across town on a warm breeze—brings Cinco de Mayo celebrations commemorating the day in 1862 when Mexican troops defeated an invading French army. From noon until midnight at Market Square, you'll enjoy 2 days of spicy south-of-the-border food and music. And, speaking of music, there's the Tejano Conjunto Festival en San Antonio in mid-May at Rosedale Park. The sound of accordions, rock ballads and big bands—both electrified and unplugged—will fill your ears for 5 days, as the region's best Tex-Mex and Latin musical groups showcase everything from traditional Conjunto-style music to more contemporary Tejano tunes. Only the municipal sound code's the limit, so grab a partner and comienza a bailar (start dancing)!
In June, check out the Texas Folklife Festival , a 3-day fete that remembers the diverse ethnic and cultural people who settled the state. Some 40 groups share their stories, crafts, music and foods at the festival, which is hosted by The Institute of Texan Cultures in Hemisfair. The following month, Freedom Fest is an Independence Day bash with a motorcycle parade and an array of musical performances by local bands at Market Square.
The Diez y Seis celebration in mid-September focuses on the city's Mexican heritage. In October, the Greek community celebrates its heritage during the Greek FUNstival , held at St. Sophia Greek Orthodox Church. There's also a lot of German heritage in San Antonio; you can experience it at Wurstfest in the German-settled village of New Braunfels. For 10 days in November, hang out with Texans dressed to the nines in lederhosen and dirndls, all while sampling thick potato pancakes, zesty sausages and mouthwatering strudels. How about a polka or a couple of waltzes? Oom-pah-pah!
The holidays are glorious in San Antonio. Don't miss the Holiday River Parade and Lighting Ceremony , which kicks off the gift-giving season. On the evening after Thanksgiving, thousands congregate at the River Walk after sunset for the electrifying moment when the mayor flips the switch, illuminating riverbank trees in a galaxy of lights to the accompaniment of cheers and whoops. After the lighting, lavishly decorated floats glide down the San Antonio River in a nighttime water parade. Bands play, princesses wave, celebrities pose. The lights twinkle and reflect in the river, imbuing everything with an air of magic. It would be a shame to miss this event, but if you do, take heart: The city doesn't pull the plug on the sparkling lights until New Year's Day.
The Christmas season is celebrated in colorful Mexican style during Fiestas Navideñas , complete with piñata parties, concerts and a blessing of children's pets by a priest. Ford Fiesta de las Luminarias features more than 6,000 candles in sand-filled bags lining the River Walk, symbolically showing the way for the holy family. La Gran Posada is an ancient Spanish religious pageant. Join the procession as they reenact Mary and Joseph's search for shelter beginning at Milam Park and ending at San Fernando Cathedral. In late December or early January, college football fans head to the Alamodome for the Valero Alamo Bowl .
See all the AAA recommended events for this destination.
SoonerGirl / flickr
The River WalkImagine a Venetian waterway lazing through the heart of your town. San Antonians don't need to imagine—they have the River Walk (in Spanish, Paseo del Río). This system of paths bordering the San Antonio River runs 15 miles through downtown, extending as far north as Hildebrand Avenue and as far south as Mission Espada.
Years ago, the sight of gondolas floating through San Antone prompted journalist Ernie Pyle to call the new River Walk “The American Venice.” How did it come into being? For centuries, the San Antonio River provided water to the region's inhabitants. If a Franciscan missionary or a Spanish explorer or a Payaya Indian was thirsty, this glassy stream offered a cool, clear drink. In the first half of the 20th century, as the city's population boomed, the tributary was not so giving. In September 1921, a sudden rainstorm blasted San Antonio, and the Olmos Basin spewed 9 feet of water into city streets. The flood killed 51 people and cost countless millions in property damage.
Following the disaster, outraged citizens called for a flood plan. In a long civic battle, both conservation and commerce prevailed, and so, during the Great Depression, the WPA (Works Project Administration) and local business leaders began the river's transformation. Over a few decades, the troublesome San Antonio River metamorphosed into the placid River Walk. Builders created dams, floodgates, cobblestone walkways, arched footbridges, thick retaining walls and staircases. Today, all these rough stone features are still in use.
Mike Boening Photography / flickr
Nowadays the city brings out the gondolas only for special occasions, but you can still ride the soft currents. Take a boat tour or hitch a ride on a water taxi. You'll coast by old cypress trees and watch trailing willow fronds swish the water's surface. If you're a landlubber and prefer to wander the walkways, promenade through isolated parks and past cafés and specialty shops; you'll encounter joggers, students, families and happy tourists along the way. Take a break at one of the umbrella-shaded tables on the riverbank, then nosh, sip and watch the world sail by. Ciao Venice. Hola River Walk!
Places in Vicinity