Make a detour off the Freedom Trail to this tiny seafood restaurant and raw bar in the North End. Opt for off-peak times as reservations are not accepted, but it is worth the wait. The aromas wafting from the Old World bistro are enough to draw you inside for a tasty bite. The chef's create Prince Edward Island mussels steeped in a garlic-cilantro concoction and honey-sweet johnnycakes (with smoked trout tartare and sturgeon caviar) while the raw bar fuels East and West Coast rivalries. Patrons are forced to choose between a hot-buttered lobster roll and a cold, but just as delicious, mayo-based variety. A special-of-the-day always is featured. My favorites—Thursday's shrimp and grits and Friday's sardines—inspire childhood memories. The menu is seasonal and specials may change along with the days of the week.