Historic. The restaurant is in a circa 1680 farmhouse only a mile or so from the center of town and its antique shops, picturesque harbor and the Essex Ship Building Museum. Classic presentations of popular New England fare, mostly fresh seafood, occupy the menu. Alternately, beef, veal and chicken items are available. Starters range from an excellent clam chowder to oysters or cherrystones on the half shell to fried smelt. Traditional homemade desserts merit the indulgence.