AAA Editor Notes
Clavijero Palace (Palacio Clavijero), downtown at Calle Nigromante #79, is a former Jesuit college. The main patio features lofty colonnades and beautiful pink stonework. Cultural events take place in the large open-air gallery.
Under the arcade on the western side of the complex is the Candy Market (Mercado de Dulces). Candy-making traditions begun by European nuns are still carried out at this shrine to Mexican confections. Worth trying are the many flavors of ate, a pasty concoction made with fresh fruit to which sugar and water are added. Perhaps the biggest holiday for sweets shops is the Day of the Dead Nov. 1-2, when they turn out an array of sugar skulls, skeletons and other ghostly creations.