Classic. This dignified, long-time Italian heavyweight sits on a nondescript street in Queens, not far from LaGuardia Airport. While the décor dates from a previous generation, the veal, seafood and pasta classics are timeless and the atmosphere is classic retro Italianesque. Service is diligent and takes you back to a time when amiable waiters wore jackets and bow ties. Parking can be notoriously difficult; it's best to take public transit.