The well-rendered décor here is a replica of an early 1900s Central European restaurant, albeit one that embraces our present-day zeitgeist of farm-to-table fare using fresh local ingredients. Brunch might be preferred, as the dinner menu can be heavy, but that is to be expected with German fare which includes sausages, beef tartare, spaetzle and beet salad. Dinner entrées range from pickle-brined Amish chicken and beef sauerbraten with braised red cabbage to pork schnitzel and aged rib-eye. With such hearty fare, there is of course a good variety of artisan beers both domestic and imported as well as a very decent wine list. The popularity of this and a handful of other eateries has brought Germanic food back to a kind of mainstream of popularity in the city for the first time in nearly half a century. Bright new restaurateurs make us expect the unexpected and rediscover our past.