It doesn't get more rough and tumble than this: a gritty restaurant in the heart of Chinatown. Guests can wait for their own table or share a communal one with others who can't wait to get their chopsticks into lushly braised pork or Chinese loofah. The usual suspects, along with more intriguing dishes, are served well into the wee hours. The decor is largely non-existent, save for the few ducks and fowl hanging in the front window. Only cash is accepted, and limited English is spoken.