Across the street from Grand Central, this lively joint is energized by the sounds of jazz playing and the din of the happy crowd. The handsome room features shaded lanterns that cast light over dark-wood tables flanked by brass-studded, red-leather chairs. Sophisticated comfort food is tasty and hearty with a measure of refinement. Fried oysters with sesame aioli is a popular starter. Good choices include beef short ribs and chicken pot pie topped with a golden puff pastry dome. Breakfast here is a popular choice for those coming into town by the railroad lines which arrive at Grand Central.