Chinese eateries have waned in popularity as sushi bars have skyrocketed, but this Upper West Side eatery is the exception. Top chef Joe Ng and veteran restaurateur Ed Schoenfeld have spun magic in this simple, rustic-modern spot with relaxed service and décor. Creative dim sum is the scene-stealer with lobster, crab and duck dumplings standing out. Traditional beef fried rice has a nifty barbecue spin, while main courses include a superlative grilled sea bass with black bean and basil sauce. No reservations are taken for small groups and the restaurant is not overly large. The original Greenwich Village location was known to have lines out the door on some nights, as it seems Chinese food never really went out of fashion it just needed some reinventing and color.