It is a good thing there are lots of tables at this eatery because crowds flock here for smoky, meaty, succulent, finger-licking, gooey barbecue ribs, brisket, shrimp and pulled pork, which are served in generous portions with mustard slaw and other sides. Free tea refills might make guests forget they are in New York City. There are no napkins, but towels—clean and dry before the meal and hot and damp after—are plentiful. Service is brisk and friendly. There is a good selection of IPAs.