A signboard eagle guards the entrance of this restaurant, but the bird that really rules the roost is emphatically the chicken. Free-range chicken, brined and then fried in a spicy batter, is the house specialty. Other regional dishes include the barbecue pork sandwich and the blackened shrimp po'boy. Side dishes include spoon bread, cheddar grits, succotash and biscuits. The dining room, with brick walls and hardwood floors, is noisy and usually crowded. Expect to wait for a table.