Named for the attendants who controlled the locks of a canal that connected Lake Erie with the Ohio River, this classy restaurant offers a modern spin on Italian cuisine. Ask the hostess for a table by the window to watch the Cuyahoga River gurgle by as you sip wine or sample the fresh bread with homemade tapenade. The menu features a variety of fresh pastas (made daily), meat dishes and luscious desserts from the in-house pastry chef. The dining room, quiet and dignified, has a high ceiling and well-coordinated earth-toned décor. Presiding over the room is a lovely photograph of 19th-century travelers posing atop a canal boat.