Hemingway Memorial

 

Episode 3

VANLIFE AT THE EDGE OF THE WORLD

By JR Switchgrass

For me and my partner Kit, Vanlife is about being able to point our bus in any direction and go. Since we’re able to travel wherever, whenever, we’ve challenged ourselves to find all the hidden gems our country has to offer. The Outer Banks of North Carolina is one of those lesser-known treasures.

The Outer Banks is a chain of semi-stable sandbar islands precariously perched in the Atlantic Ocean. Ocracoke Island is the southernmost island of the chain and it can only be accessed by ferry. We boarded the small boat from the mainland to Ocracoke Island, ripe with anticipation. An hour out to sea, the wind playing in our hair, the shore appeared through a blue haze of sea spray, and we knew we were in for adventure.

image of beach

The small fishing village of Ocracoke smelled of quaint charm and fresh fish. Kit and I swerved down the two-lane road to the local fish market just as the fishermen returned to the pier with their day’s catch. A flock of fifty pelicans hopped over the cracks in the ancient deck, hoping to stealthily steal a snack. The faint scent of raw clams lingered in the air.

woman standing in front of lighthouse

We spoke with the fisherman as he unloaded his fish onto the scaling table. In a steady voice, he told us about his grandfather, who taught him all about fishing these very same waters. He was of The Outer Banks, through and through, and when we complimented him on his catch, he winked at us and held out a perfect pompano, specked with green and yellow scales. He explained that a pompano is a small fish, typically cooked and eaten whole.

Prepare for the road ahead

I had never cooked, eaten or processed an un-filleted fish before, and the thought of it intimidated me. Kit, however, was undaunted by the task.

“We’ve got this,” she said. We scored a beach-side camp-site in the state park and she got to work on the pompano, an Atlantic Coast delicacy. When your kitchen rolls with you wherever you go, it is possible to cook a gourmet meal even in a campground. Thanks to Kit’s handiwork, the Pompano melted in our mouth as we sat on the sandy picnic table and watched the sun set over the desolate beach.

woman next to orange van

We walked barefoot along the shore the next morning The unbroken coastline stretched for miles ahead us. The more we walked, the further away the coastline seemed to go. But, we were determined to reach the end. Eventually, though, we gave in and turned back. As the morning fog lifted, the sun glinted off the ocean, and the day felt open to endless possibilities.

We’re not usually tour-takers. We typically find fascination in exploring places on our own terms, in our van or on our own two feet. But, when an opportunity to ride the beach on horseback arose, we simply couldn’t refuse. On the beaches of the Outer Banks, we were free to gallop our horses at break-neck speed. The sight of Kit thundering down the beach on horseback with expression of unbridled joy on her face, is etched in my memory forever.

woman on horse

I share these experiences with you in hopes that you too will go forth and live in the world. All of these experiences are available to those who are willing to reach out and grab them. So, following in the spirit of Mark Twain I encourage you; “Cast off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor.”

 

Cars at an intersection

Driving Hemingway

By John Scott Lewinski

First / Episode 1
organge van with woman standing in front

Vanlife at the Edge of the World

By JR Switchgrass

Next / Episode 2