Atera

Each day brings another opportunity for Chef Ronny Emborg and his team to create and dazzle like few others can. A treat for all the senses, a two-hour plus tasting menu here slowly builds and ultimately culminates with incredibly visual and precise presentations and never-before-seen combinations. Golden Osetra caviar with pistachio and IPA cream was the remarkable dish which first gained acclaim for the kitchen, pairing ingredients you didn’t know were so gloriously meant to be connected. The build of the menu is carefully planned so that the diner does not get overwhelmed by the sheer number of courses or novel new arrangements being delivered from the kitchen. Each ingredient, whether they be humble or grand, is treated with a reverence, respect and starring-role. A delicate plating of sea urchin and salmon brioche; an artistic halibut with caviar, scallop and wasabi; or, crab and ricotta mushroom ravioli all show the natural beauty of a modern Nordic-influenced kitchen and a love affair with the sea. However, the beautifully plated, succulent lamb with green asparagus and cashew might make a diner downright yearn for the outdoorsy great North, too. Service is highly professional and personable, with enthusiasm in presenting an experience which is both soulful and pretty incredible. In a very small dining room with a chef’s table open to the kitchen it does not get much more exclusive, or as human than this. Reservations are made weeks in advance. Wines are carefully paired, or can be ordered by the glass seperately, and the cellar includes some fine selections from very old European vineyards.