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In Depth

In 1608 Samuel de Champlain, realizing the strategic importance of the site—not only would the cliffs provide an impregnable fortress for a settlement, they also would protect ships anchored in the deep waters of the St. Lawrence River—built an abitation, or trading post, by the river at the foot of Cap Diamant. The city of Québec was established.

A growing base for trade and exploration of the interior continent, Québec expanded in the only direction possible—up. Lower Town, or Basse-Ville, the city's mercantile district, was to be protected by Haute-Ville, Upper Town, built on the cliff above it. The French colony prospered in the 1600s, becoming the center of New France and enjoying a brisk trade with its mother country, which was at peace with rival England 1629-32. The tranquility ended in 1690 with a British attack on the city; it was the first of several to come.

Québec was successfully defended for 6 decades due to its natural defenses and the protective wall and fortifications built around Upper Town in 1720 by Chaussegros de Léry. In 1759, however, Québec fell to Britain.

The siege of the city culminated early on Sept. 13, when British general James Wolfe and his troops scaled cliffs to reach the Plains of Abraham (known today as Battlefields Park or Parc des Champs-de-Bataille) above fortified Québec. They surprised and defeated the Marquis de Montcalm and his troops in about 20 minutes. With the 1763 peace treaty, France lost the province to Great Britain.

The city became English in name only; in culture and tradition Québec remained French. Britain passed the Québec Act in 1774, allowing the French to worship in their native Roman Catholic Church rather than forcing them to attend the English Anglican Church.

A year later an American invasion challenged British troops to defend the city. The British were successful in defeating the attackers, whose New Year's Eve assault was spearheaded by generals Richard Montgomery and Benedict Arnold.

During the last years of the 18th and most of the 19th centuries, Québec was a shipbuilding and wheat and lumber trading center. City walls and other defenses were refortified. By 1880 most English-speaking settlers had moved to Montréal, the United States or elsewhere, leaving Québec a predominantly French-speaking city.

Attesting to the city's French heritage and dominating Québec's skyline are the turrets and verdigris copper roof of the luxe Fairmont Le Château Frontenac. The 1893 hotel's location atop the historic bluff overlooking the St. Lawrence River is in the heart of Old Québec (Vieux-Québec), which retains the feel of a centuries-old French village. Also dominating the skyline is The Citadel. Built 1820-52, it remains an active military garrison and also is one of two homes of both the governor general of Canada and the Canadian monarch. During warm weather, visitors can see the ceremonial changing of the guard.

The best way to fully appreciate this walled city is by foot, wandering along the narrow cobblestone streets, admiring the 17th- and 18th-century stone buildings. The streets can be curvy and hilly, but it's worth the effort to experience the many historic sites and museums, charming local restaurants, boutiques, art and antiques galleries and shops.

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