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CancúN Sightseeing

History of Cancún

With white-sand beaches as soft as baby powder, a shimmering Caribbean Sea in a seemingly impossible shade of turquoise and constant sea breezes tempering the tropical heat, it may seem as if someone designed Cancún specifically for vacationers. Perhaps that’s because it’s not that far off the mark.

While Mayan settlement of the Yucatán is believed to date as far back as 2,500 B.C. — and the Maya had abandoned their city strongholds before Spanish conquistadores even set foot on Mexican soil — Cancún dates only from the late 1960s.

A group of Mexican government analysts identified the area now known as Cancún as a prime spot for tourism development in the late 1960s and early 1970s. Eager developers soon built high-rise condominiums, luxury resorts, a golf course and other amenities on tracts of land where mangroves and marshes once stood.

Getting to Cancún

By Air

Cancún and its surrounding areas are served by Cancún International Airport (CUN), on the mainland off Mex. 307, about 23 kilometers (14 miles) southwest of Cancún’s Hotel Zone. The busy Cancún airport receives daily flights from more than 50 airlines around the world; all major airlines in the U.S. and Canada fly to Cancún.

Airport signs indicating arrivals, departures, gates and restrooms are written in Spanish and English. After landing in Cancún, you’ll proceed to Immigration to have your tourist permit validated (there’s often a long wait), then retrieve your belongings from the baggage claim area before heading to Mexican customs. You’ll turn in your completed declaration form while your luggage passes through the random green light/red light system; if the red light flashes, your bags will be briefly searched.

Transportation options from the airport to your hotel include chartered taxis, shuttles, hotel-associated vans, private transfers, public buses and rental cars. You’ll see a crowd of van drivers and shuttle bus operators carrying signs outside the airport. Rental car counters are in a consolidated location outside the baggage claim and customs area.

Unlike at other airports, you can’t hail a taxi from the curb in Cancún. Instead you’ll need to make a reservation in advance to get a taxi from the airport to your hotel. Taxis are bookable online, so you’ll know exactly what to expect for the rate and tipping range (typically $30 to the Hotel Zone, plus tip).

Shuttle service via passenger van is a popular option. Shared shuttles are the most economical, but private shuttles and transfers allow you to have additional luggage and get to your destination faster. You’ll want to book shuttles and private transfers in advance; expect rates of anywhere from $35 to $95 (U.S.) to get to the Hotel Zone, plus tip. USA Transfers is a reputable company; phone (998) 914-0290 or 01 (800) 212-8931 (toll-free long distance within Mexico). Another affordable option is Happy Shuttle Cancún; phone (800) 818-9821.

Your local AAA travel advisor can assist with booking flights to Cancún and arranging roundtrip transportation from the airport to your hotel.

When departing from Cancún, plan on arriving at least 2 hours before an international flight. Terminal 3 has plenty of fast-food restaurants, gift shops and duty-free stores on the upper departure level if you get to the airport early.

By Car

There are two main routes to get to Cancún by car. Driving to Cancún from the west, the main route is Mex. 180, which passes through the cities and towns of Veracruz, Villahermosa, Campeche and Mérida approaching Cancún.

Between Mérida and the small town of Hoctún, the highway is two lanes. At Hoctún, four-lane toll (cuota) highway Mex. 180-D begins and roughly parallels Mex. 180 for about 240 kilometers (144 miles). The highway is in very good condition and is much quicker than Mex. 180, which passes through small towns with numerous speed bumps (topes), but the toll road is isolated with only a few gas stations along its length, which can be an issue if you break down or you’re traveling at night. Make sure your tank is always at least half full if you’re driving on Mex. 180-D.

Toll plazas are located at the Yucatán/Quintana Roo state line (Plaza de Cobro X-Can), which also is a customs checkpoint, and at the Chichén Itzá exit (Pisté). Fees are paid in pesos (credit and debit cards are not accepted), and you can expect to pay a total of around $40 (U.S.) in combined charges. The high cost is the major reason why Mex. 180-D is lightly traveled.

Mex. 180-D ends about 16 kilometers (10 miles) west of the airport, and from there you can follow signs to “Cancún/Puerto Juárez” to stay on the mainland, or follow signs to “Tulum/Aeropuerto” to get to the Hotel Zone.

Driving to Cancún from the south, the main road is Mex. 307, which roughly parallels the coast north of Tulum. This stretch provides easy access to attractions, beach resorts and hotels along the Riviera Maya coast.

Branching northwest off Mex. 307 at Tulum, Mex. 109 provides direct access to the Cobá archeological zone and joins Mex. 180 at the town of X-Can. The distance between Tulum and X-Can is about 85 kilometers (53 miles). This route saves time and mileage if you're driving to Mérida from Tulum.

By Bus

Public bus service connects Cancún with various points on the Yucatán Peninsula, including Chetumal, Chichén Itzá, Mérida, Playa del Carmen, Tulum and Valladolid. The ADO bus terminal is in downtown Ciudad Cancún across from the Plaza Caribe Hotel, just past the Avenida Uxmal traffic circle (west of Mex. 307/Avenida Tulum and north of Avenida Uxmal).

By Cruise Ship

Cruise ships do not dock in Cancún, as there are no docking facilities at the port. The closest cruise ship port to Cancún is Cozumel. If you're on a ship that docks at Cozumel and want to spend some time in Cancún, take a ferry from Cozumel to Playa del Carmen, then it’s about a 45-minute drive north to Cancún. Alternatively, you can check with the shore excursion desk on your cruise to see if they offer a Cancún package. Depending on the length of time you can be on shore, you could squeeze in a shopping trip or a visit to one of Cancún’s beaches.

Note: If you arrange a shore excursion through your cruise line, the ship will wait if you aren't back at the scheduled departure time. This is not the case, however, if you arrange the excursion on your own, so keep timing in mind.

Getting Around Cancún

City Layout

It’s relatively easy to find your way around Cancún’s Hotel Zone, as the four-lane Boulevard Kukulcán (also referred to as Paseo Kukulcán but usually just called “Kukulcán”) is the area’s main traffic artery and runs the length of the narrow island. Boulevard Kukulcán begins at the junction with Avenida Bonampak, on the eastern edge of Ciudad Cancún, and runs south past Punta Nizuc (Nizuc Point), the island's southern tip, before ending at Mex. 307, near the overpass leading to the airport.

The four-lane road divides briefly at Cancún Point, the elbow of the island's “seven” shape. Where U-turns are permitted, signs in the median say retorno. The speed limit along most of Kukulcán is 40 km/h (25 mph), but the speed limit increases to 60 km/h (37 mph) at the southern end of the island.

You won’t often get numbered addresses associated with places in the Hotel Zone. Instead, Kilometer markers installed in the median (from Km 1, just past the mainland, to Km 25 beyond Nizuc Point) are used to designate locations. Directions are often given in reference to well-known landmarks or hotels (and most people can speak English). Because there is only one main road, it's almost impossible to get lost in Cancún’s Hotel Zone.

Navigating around downtown Ciudad Cancún, or “El Centro,” is another story. Driving can be daunting even if you know where you're going. There are numerous one-way streets and traffic circles (glorietas), as well as crowds of pedestrians and unfamiliar traffic signals. For an excursion into El Centro for dinner or shopping, take a bus or a taxi.

Ciudad Cancún is divided into districts called super manzanas (shortened to SM), each containing several blocks surrounding a central square or park. Avenida López Portillo runs east to west and consists of the in-town section of Mex. 180. Avenida Tulum runs north to south and is a portion of Mex. 307, which runs south toward the airport and continues down the coast toward Tulum.

Most souvenir shops and restaurants in Ciudad Cancún are located along or near Avenida Tulum and Avenida Cobá. (Avenida Coba becomes Boulevard Kukulcán as it heads east and enters the Hotel Zone.) Parque de las Palapas is centrally located a block west of Avenida Tulum. The family-oriented park has craft sellers who set up their wares and food vendors offering popcorn, fried bananas and the doughnut-like snacks called churros. Casual restaurants line Tulipanes, a nearby pedestrian street, and popular local eateries are within walking distance of the park.

Rental Cars

Consider renting a car in Cancún if you plan to venture outside the Hotel Zone and don’t want to rely on buses, taxis or organized tours to get there. Renting a car will make it convenient to plan a day trip or overnight trip down the coast to Tulum or inland to the ruins of Chichén Itzá or Cobá. The quality of most regional roads is good, but don’t underestimate the amount of time it will take to drive to your destination. You should also avoid driving after dark in Cancún.

Car rental rates are expensive if you rent on the spot; you can get the best deal by making reservations in advance; a AAA travel counselor can help you find good options. Arrange for rental car pickup and drop-off at the airport to eliminate taxi fares, and be sure you fully understand the terms of any rental car contract you sign. If the car only has half a tank of gas when you pick it up, you should be able to return it with half a tank, but double check this rule before you drive off.

Keep in mind that license plates on rental vehicles say renta, which marks you as a visitor. If you don't feel comfortable driving in an unfamiliar place, you may be able to hire a driver through the major rental car agencies; ask about this option when you book.

Hertz is one of several rental car agencies available in Cancún, with offices at the airport, at two locations in downtown Ciudad Cancún, and in the Hotel Zone at La Isla Shopping Village and Flamingo Plaza. AAA members receive discounts through Hertz for vehicles booked in the United States; phone (800) 654-3080.

Buses

The public bus system is an easy and convenient way to get around Cancún. Using the bus is much cheaper than taking a cab, especially if you're staying at the southern end of the Hotel Zone. Buses operate 24 hours a day and cost just 8.5 pesos in the Hotel Zone or 7 pesos in Cuidad Cancún.

Ruta 1 and Ruta 2 buses (marked with R-1, Hoteles or Zona Hotelera on the windshield) run regularly from the mainland along Boulevard Kukulcán to the southern end of the Hotel Zone (around the Km 20 marker) and back. The Ruta 8 bus goes to Puerto Juárez and Punta Sam for the ferries to Isla Mujeres.

Bus fare can be paid with pesos or U.S. dollars, but drivers will only make change if you pay with pesos. There are frequent stops along the length of Boulevard Kukulcán, or you can tell the driver where you want to get off. Buses can also be flagged from hotel driveway entrances.

Keep in mind that buses are likely to be the most crowded in the morning and evening, when mainland locals use them to get to and from work. The buses jolt along and can stop suddenly, so watch your footing.

Taxis

Getting a taxi in Cancún’s Hotel Zone can be very expensive, even if you’re just going from one hotel to the next. Taxis in the Hotel Zone are not metered, so you’ll pay based on a zone system. Arranging for a cab directly at your hotel is convenient and safer than hailing one on the street, but these cabs also tend to have the highest rates. Some hotels list the taxi fares to various destinations at the front entrance; if not, ask the front desk. Always confirm the trip rate with the driver before you get into their car, and have Mexican pesos on hand.

Taxis on the mainland have a cheaper rate structure (also based on a zone system) than the Hotel Zone taxis, so if you’re going from the Hotel Zone to Ciudad Cancún, Puerto Juárez or Punta Sam, take the Kukulcán bus to the mainland before getting a taxi to your destination. You can also hire a taxi to Chichén Itzá or for a drive south along the Riviera Maya, although you'll pay a steep hourly rate for this convenience.

Ferries

Taking a ferry from Cancún to nearby Isla Mujeres is an easy and popular day trip. Enclosed, air-conditioned Ultramar passenger ferries make the 15-20 minute trip to Isla Mujeres often, and the island offers an excellent beach with calm surf, snorkeling adventures, a turtle sanctuary and golf cart tours.

To catch the Ultramar ferry to Isla Mujeres (about $15-$21 round-trip), head to Puerto Juárez, about 3 kilometers (2 miles) north of Cancún via Avenida López Portillo (Mex. 180). The ferries depart from the Gran Puerto terminal about every half-hour from 6:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., then hourly from 3 to 11 p.m. The final return trip from Isla Mujeres is at midnight. Note: The ferry ride can be choppy even in good weather, so it's a good idea to take the proper precautions if you're prone to seasickness.

You can also catch an Ultramar ferry to Isla Mujeres from terminals closer to the Hotel Zone, though the schedule isn’t as frequent. Ferries depart from the dock at Playa Tortugas (Km marker 6.5 on Boulevard Kukulcán) and Playa Caracol (Km marker 8.5 on Boulevard Kukulcán). Check the Ultramar website for current Isla Mujeres ferry schedules and fares.

Parking

Street parking is limited in Ciudad Cancún and the Hotel Zone. Park on city streets at your own discretion. If you have a rental car or are driving your own vehicle, keep it in the hotel parking lot — most of them are guarded — and use buses, cabs or shuttles for local excursions. Many hotels, shopping centers and restaurants do offer complimentary valet; a tip of 40 pesos is customary for an hour of parking.

Guides/Tours

The most popular day trip excursions from Cancún are to Isla Mujeres , the Tulum Ruins , Xcaret and Xel-Ha . Another popular option is a guided tour of the Chichén Itzá archeological ruins .

Many hotels have a travel agency representative on-site or a concierge who can assist with making tour arrangements. Cancún-based tour operators also offer excursions and vacation packages that include transportation and hotel pickup.

A few organized tours are worth a mention. For trips from Cancún to Tulum or Chichén Itzá, Gray Line Cancún offers motorcoach tours that will pick you up from most major hotels in the Hotel Zone. For information phone 01 (800) 719-5465 (toll-free long distance within Mexico) or (800) 235-4079 (from the United States).

Xichen Tours offers a full-day excursion to Chichén Itzá and the town of Valladolid that includes a guided tour of the ruins followed by a visit to Cenote Zací and a buffet lunch at a restored colonial mansion. Round-trip transportation from hotels in Cancún, Playa del Carmen and the Riviera Maya is included. The cost is $145 (U.S.); $73 (ages 5-11). Discounted tickets can be purchased online. For reservation information, phone (998) 883-3143 (in Cancún), (984) 206-0038 (in Playa del Carmen) or (855) 326-2696 (from the United States and Canada).

If you’re planning to visit Xcaret and don’t have a rental car, an organized bus excursion is a good way to get there. Tour packages that include Xcaret can provide roundtrip transportation from a number of hotels in Cancún, Playa del Carmen and along the Riviera Maya coast. The total cost is around $110 (U.S.) or $55 (ages 5-11), with discounts available online. For reservation information phone (855) 326-0682. For additional information contact the Xcaret information center in Cancún, phone (998) 251-6560, or in Playa del Carmen, phone (984) 147-6560.

Top Cancún Things to Do

Whether it's your first trip or you've been here several times before, don't forget to include these sights and experiences on your list of things to do in Cancún.

By AAA Travel Editor

Location, location, location. The biggest Cancún attraction, besides year-round warm weather, is the beach—and better yet, you're never more than a few steps away from it. That contrast of white sand and intensely turquoise water is simply an unbeatable combination. Add an almost constant breeze and the soothing lullaby of breaking surf and you have the ideal recipe for letting go—of worries, routines back home and the 9-to-5 grind in general.

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This resort city can put a pretty good bite in your vacation wallet, which makes hotel hopping all the more fun—and it's free. The glitzy Hotel Zone resorts span a range of architectural styles and decorative moods. You've got marble-walled luxury at the Grand Fiesta Americana Coral Beach Cancún All Inclusive Spa Resort and public areas filled with tropical plants and Mayan-style statues in the pyramid-shaped buildings at the Paradisus Cancun Resort . Stroll through lobbies and lush garden areas, or have lunch, dinner or a drink at one of the local hotel restaurants.

Cancún nightlife not only goes on most of the night but all year. The popularity of dance clubs tends to depend on the fickle tastes of spring breakers, but old reliables and newer upstarts keep the party going. If you don't feel like moving your hips on a packed dance floor with young partygoers, there are plenty of more sedate options, like the cool tropical elegance of The Lobby Lounge in the Kempinski Hotel Cancun . Front desk staff at your hotel can tell you where the nightlife spots are and how to get to them.

Mall it. The big Hotel Zone malls—Plaza Caracol, Kukulcán Plaza, La Isla Shopping Village—are as shiny as their U.S. counterparts, and La Isla also has the Interactive Aquarium Cancún , which offers great things to do with kids. It does rain in paradise, so keep this option open for the occasional dreary day.

You'll probably be staying at a hotel with its own stretch of beachfront, but the beach is definitely where it's at here, so feel free to park your towel at one of the official public beaches. Playa Langosta (beginning at Km marker 5 on Boulevard Kukulcán) and Playa Tortugas (roughly between Km markers 6 and 8) front the calm, shallow waters of Mujeres Bay, which makes them good for wading, swimming, snorkeling, kayaking and such water toys as wave runners. Local restaurants are within easy walking distance, and Playa Tortugas has public restrooms and changing areas. Tortugas is especially popular with local families on Sundays, when most people have the day off.

The calm waters of Nichupté Lagoon may not have the striking hues of the Caribbean, but they're perfect for a dinner cruise. For a romantic getaway, one of the top things for couples to do is to sail off into the sunset aboard the Spanish-style galleon Columbus on a lobster dinner cruise complete with lovely sunset or nighttime views and live music.

Get your adventure travel on and go snorkeling or scuba diving. Offshore coral reefs teem with tropical fish and other marine creatures, and there are plenty of marinas and dive shops in the Hotel Zone that can set up a guided trip and provide all the necessary equipment and instruction. You can even explore cenotes, the limestone sinkholes deep in the Yucatán jungle that are filled with crystal-clear fresh water. Aquaworld Marina offers guided snorkeling and scuba diving excursions to various offshore reefs and submerged sites, including the collection of otherworldly sculptures that comprise the Underwater Museum of Art .

Take a ferry trip to Isla Mujeres, Quintana Roo , a sliver of an island 4 miles off the coast. Wander narrow streets lined with souvenir shops, savor fresh seafood at a small sidewalk lonchería (open-air restaurant) or doze under the shade of a palm tree on the beach; you'll give in to Isla's laid-back rhythms immediately. Taking a trip to Isla Mujeres is one of the fun things to do with friends in Cancún.

Another fun way to spend a day at Isla is at Garrafón Park . The activities here include swimming, snorkeling, ziplining, kayaking—or just snoozing away the afternoon in a hammock.

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Chichén Itzá, Yucatán is about 2 hours away, but tour operators like Gray Line Cancún make it easy to visit these Mayan ruins on an organized excursion—or rent a car and hit the road yourself. Do not, however, miss the chance to see this world-renowned archeological site. Once a large city, it offers breathtaking evidence that the Maya were not only accomplished architects; as you marvel at these stone structures consider the fact that they were built without benefit of metal tools, beasts of burden or the wheel.

If you can't make it to Chichén Itzá the Cancún Maya Museum is the next best thing. Built by Mexico's National Institute of Anthropology and History (INAH), it's a state-of-the-art showcase for an impressive collection of archeological artifacts, with special attention given to the Mayan people and their notable achievements. For the real thing, check out the El Rey Ruins . The ruins themselves are small, but some big iguanas provide cool photo ops.

Xcaret is like a big American-style theme park, albeit one with a focus on preserving the Yucatán's natural resources. At this all-day destination you can float down an underground river, swim with dolphins, go snorkeling, observe sea turtles and native wildlife or simply kick back on the beach. If you don't have a rental car—or don't feel like driving—organized excursions depart frequently from Cancún.

Best Restaurants in Cancún

Our favorites include some of this destination's best restaurants—from fine dining to simple fare.

By AAA Travel Editor

Cancún has a number of reliably good hotel restaurants, as you'd expect in a popular resort destination. If you're the non-adventurous culinary type you'll find plenty of places to eat in the Hotel Zone, from familiar fast food to pricey places to eat with reliably standard menus. If you want to dive into the more exotic world of authentic Yucatecan cuisine, check out one of the local restaurants in downtown Ciudad Cancún.

Fine Dining Options

Hotel Zone restaurants tend to emphasize a fine dining experience. Heading the list is Le Basilic , in the in the Grand Fiesta Americana Coral Beach Cancún All Inclusive Spa Resort . Oakwood paneling and cool marble floors characterize Le Basilic . This intimate, adults-only restaurant offers a changing menu of Mediterranean-inspired dishes, emphasizing fresh ingredients and beautiful presentation. Chef Henri Charvet works wonders with seafood—a luscious lobster consommé appetizer, or entrées like fillet of sole with caviar and grilled salmon in a caper sauce. Service is attentive to say the least. You'll also want to dress up for this experience.

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Fantino , in the Kempinski Hotel Cancun , maintains that hotel's embodiment of high-end luxury. The mood here is elegant, the ambience classical European. The dining room's hand-painted ceiling frescos and beautiful Caribbean views set the stage for gastronomic adventure. You can choose from the a la carte or tasting menu, the latter paired with selections from an outstanding wine list. From gazpacho with sea scallops and lemon crème fraiche to such entrées as Maine lobster lasagna or short ribs with squash gnocchi, this is special occasion dining you'll remember.

Hacienda Sisal Mexican Grill, on Boulevard Kukulcán at Km 13.5, has vaulted ceilings and a huge courtyard that recall the grand Mexican haciendas of yore. Start with guacamole, prepared tableside and spiked with sererano chiles, coriander, oregano, garlic and lime juice. Main dishes offer no surprises, but they're tasty and creatively prepared; try Yucatecan-style roast pork or the lobster and shrimp enchiladas with a tomato and chipotle chile sauce. Tikinxic—fish marinated in annatto (a spice made from the seeds of the achiote tree) and Seville orange juice, topped with onions and tomatoes and cooked in a banana leaf—is a recipe that goes all the way back to the Mayans.

Nearby Restaurants with Lagoon Views

Lorenzillo's is one of the city's longtime favorites. Literally built over Nichupté Lagoon, its thatched palapa roof is a local landmark. The seafood—in-season soft shell and stone crabs, live Caribbean lobster, Chilean sea bass—is above reproach, but you also can order a rib-eye steak or the Huracán Wilma, a chicken breast stuffed with creamed spinach, goat cheese and bacon. Try to get an upstairs table in the smaller two-story palapa on the pier; the views are well worth it.

Another restaurant with a lovely lagoon view is Harry's Prime Steakhouse & Raw Bar . The USDA Prime filet mignon is an excellent cut of beef that doesn't need an accompanying Bernaise sauce or garlic and herb butter (but don't let that stop you). With such meaty options available, parmesan truffle fries or creamed corn with black truffles are almost an afterthought—but again, don't let that stop you. Harry's also has a wide variety of seafood appetizers, from grilled octopus to lobster tostadas. If you can save room for dessert, try the mango sorbet.

The décor at Puerto Madero —enhanced by a spectacular view of the lagoon—is inspired by the fashionable Puerto Madero neighborhood in Buenos Aires. Carnivores will appreciate the ham and cheese-stuffed empanadas, homemade Argentinean sausage and the big rib-eye steaks, although the house specialty is for seafood lovers: a platter for two laden with clams, oysters in the shell, jumbo shrimp, whitefish and Alaskan king crab legs.

Where to Eat Steaks, Seafood and Local Specialties

Another popular Argentinean steakhouse is Cambalache, on the second floor of the Forum-by-the-Sea shopping complex at Boulevard Kukulcán Km 9. This cavernous space has a traditional steakhouse look (dark woods, soft lighting), and the service is outstanding. Start with the house cocktail, a concoction of sparkling cider, red wine and fresh fruit prepared tableside. The house-made potato crisps served in a fried potato basket are a tasty appetizer nosh. A charcoal grill imparts plenty of flavor to the various steaks and sausages; if you're dining with a group, try slow-roasted short ribs or suckling pig from the wood-fired grill.

It makes sense to go with the obvious at the Crab House . Stone, soft shell and Alaskan king crabs all get their due here, and the crustacean also shows up in the house salad and the cakes that can be ordered as an appetizer. The smoked marlin with capers, olives and sliced tomatoes is another delicious starter. Meat eaters can opt for filet mignon or a grilled rib eye. Like the other restaurants that line the lagoon, the Crab House has both an outdoor deck and indoor seating.

Captain's Cove Steak & Seafood Grill, toward the southern end of the Hotel Zone, is another popular seafood eatery that's been around for ages. It's a multilevel place with big windows overlooking the lagoon and the Royal Yacht Club Marina. Seafood is the main draw—shrimp, crab platters, whole fried fish and a grouper fillet prepared Yucatecan style, marinated in seasonings and cooked in a banana leaf wrapper with tomatoes, peppers, onions and limes. An outdoor deck overlooking the water is shaded by a big palapa roof. The all-you-can-eat breakfast buffet here is a good deal.

Italian Favorites

There are probably as many Italian restaurants in Cancún as there are Mexican, and Gustino Italian Grill , in the JW Marriott Cancun Resort & Spa, is one of the better ones. Terraced seating and big windows equal great beachside views, and the atmosphere is relatively intimate. The antipasti bar, loaded with cold cuts, marinated veggies and imported cheeses, could be a meal in itself—or opt for classic Italian preparations like roasted rack of lamb or a braised veal chop with Prosciutto and wild mushrooms. Homemade tagliatelle with truffle cream sauce is a sinfully rich pasta dish. Service is gracious and attentive without being overbearing.

The polished service and superb food keep regulars coming back to Casa Rolandi , in the Hotel Zone at Boulevard Kukulcán Km 13.5. The Italian cuisine can be as simple as homemade lasagna, thyme-infused pork chops or a fish fillet sautéed with garlic, lemon and white wine, or as decadently rich as the black ravioli stuffed with lobster. And you could make a full meal from the antipasto choices alone.

La Dolce Vita Downtown is a good choice it you want to take a break from the Hotel Zone dining scene. The staff makes you feel welcome as soon as you walk through the door. Homemade pastas and Italian classics are executed with flair; try the house specialty Boquinete Dolce Vita, snapper topped with shrimp and mushrooms enclosed in puff pastry, served with a lobster sauce. Capellini with tomato sauce and fresh basil is a simple dish, but it's delicious. If you're dining with a significant other, end the meal with crepes Suzette for two.

Start the Day with a Good Breakfast

Many Cancún restaurants are open for lunch and dinner only, which makes finding breakfast outside your hotel a bit of a daunting proposition. Fortunately there's Vips, in the Hotel Zone on Boulevard Kukulcán at Km 9.5 (near the Cancún Center). Although you can get breakfast, lunch and dinner here, the morning meal is their specialty. Go for one of the egg plates, perhaps Motul-style—two fried eggs, peas and diced ham atop a crispy tortilla covered in tomato sauce, with pureed black beans and slices of fried banana on the side. Add toast, fruit juice and good café Americano and you'll be set for most of the day.

See all the restaurants for this destination.

Best Attractions in Cancún

In a city with dozens of attractions, you may have trouble deciding where to spend your time. Here are the highlights for this destination, as chosen by AAA editors. GEMs are “Great Experiences for Members.”

It's somewhat ironic that Cancún gives off such a decided here-and-now vibe—there always seems to be a new hotel or condo on the drawing board or under construction—when the Yucatán Peninsula is so rich in archeological ruins that exude a timeless sense of antiquity. The legacies in stone left behind by the Maya people are some of the region's most compelling and mysterious sights.

Around the same time Europe was floundering in the Dark Ages, the Maya had developed a hieroglyphic writing system and mapped out the heavens with a calendar that served as a prototype for those used today. They also were skilled at clearing thick jungle to plant crops, building underground reservoirs to store seasonal rainwater and constructing limestone road networks to facilitate trade and travel.

Historical Ruins to Visit

Chichen Itza, Yucatán is the most famous of all Maya ruins and one of the top things to do near Cancún. This archeological zone is about 125 miles west of Cancún but easily reached by car via toll highway Mex. 180-D. If you arrange to spend the night at one of the hotels just outside the ruins, you'll free yourself from the tight schedule of a guided tour. And this AAA GEM place is well worth the extra time for its amazing pyramids and temples, which are monumental in scope and architecturally fascinating.

Chichén Itzá's focal point is The Castle (El Castillo). Perfectly symmetrical, this 100-foot-high pyramid has 91 steps on each of its four sides. Nearby is another impressive building, the Temple of the Warriors , which is embellished with decorative carvings. Note the preponderance of skulls, serpent heads and jaguars incorporated into Maya structures, all images underscoring the warlike nature of the people.

What to Do on a Rainy Day

Get up close and personal with marine creatures with a trip to the Interactive Aquarium Cancún in La Isla Shopping Village. Manta rays and sea turtles can be touched, and display tanks house sea horses, groupers, barracudas, bull sharks and many other species. Interacting or swimming with dolphins and feeding sharks also can be experienced for an additional fee. This is a good activity when you're looking for things to do in Cancún on a rainy day.

Beaches and Outdoor Activities

Cancún's beaches, of course, are its most valuable natural asset. The water is absolutely beautiful, the sand is soft and it's warm enough to swim year-round. If you're staying at a beachfront property it's easy and convenient to use the stretch associated with your hotel. Keep in mind, however, that all beaches in Mexico are federally owned and therefore accessible to anyone.

Playa Langosta (beginning at Km marker 5 on Boulevard Kukulcán) and Playa Tortugas (roughly between Km markers 6 and 8) front the calm, shallow waters of Mujeres Bay, which makes them good for wading, swimming, snorkeling, kayaking and such water toys as wave runners. Restaurants are within easy walking distance, and Playa Tortugas has public restrooms and changing areas. Tortugas is especially popular with local families on Sundays, when most people have the day off.

Playa Marlín, between the La Isla and Plaza Kukulcán malls (around Km marker 13 on Boulevard Kukulcán), offers nice views and is good for surfing. Playa Delfines is in the vicinity of Km marker 18 on Boulevard Kukulcán. This beach is known as “El Mirador” (the Vantage Point) for its panoramic lookout over the water. There also is a small public parking lot right off the boulevard. Keep in mind that the Caribbean beaches can have strong undertows and large waves that make swimming potentially hazardous. Heed the posted warning flags; green means conditions are safe.

Isla Mujeres is an easy day trip by boat from Cancún; via public ferry the ride takes about 45 minutes. Explore the narrow cobblestone streets and do some shopping on waterfront Avenida Rueda Medina or pedestrian-only Avenida Hidalgo (two blocks inland). The big tourist attraction is Garrafón Park . The easiest way to enjoy all the activities this marine park offers is to spring for a round-trip cruise ship package; your hotel or a local travel agency can provide details about vacation packages.

Day Trips from Cancún

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Xcaret (pronounced ISH-car-et) is about an hour south of Cancún. You name it and this AAA GEM attraction has it—snorkeling, floating along an underground river, exploring subterranean caverns, wildlife viewing (deer, tapirs, jaguars, spider monkeys, flamingos, butterflies), a living coral reef aquarium, a re-created Mayan village, even a granja de hongos (mushroom farm). The park is great fun for kids while also emphasizing conservation and preserving Mayan history and culture in the form of a dazzling evening show. Organized all-day excursions depart regularly from Cancún's Hotel Zone.

See all the AAA recommended attractions for this destination.

Dining in Cancún

Hotel Zone restaurants offer uniformly reliable quality and predictable expense. Many all-inclusive properties go to great lengths to keep their guests on the premises, and some may charge for meals whether they are eaten or not. The more expensive hotels also tend to emphasize a fine-dining experience. Don't expect much in the way of regional cookery; U.S. fast-food and chain restaurant franchises, as well as Mexican chains like Sr. Frog's, are the norm.

Ciudad Cancún is a different story. Avenida Tulum is lined with local restaurants, and most have outdoor tables. Look for places where locals congregate if you want authentically prepared Yucatecan dishes like sopa de lima—soup with a chicken broth base, vegetables and a tangy dose of fresh lime juice—or poc-chuc, spicy marinated pork grilled with onions.

One local favorite—and a place where you can sample home-style cooking for a fraction of the cost of the Hotel Zone restaurants—is Checándole, downtown at Av. Xpuhil #27 (near Mercado 28). It serves tacos, steak tampiqueña, enchiladas with mole sauce and other Mexican standards, along with fresh fruit juices. From the Hotel Zone, a Ruta 6 bus will get you there.

For a reasonably priced Mexican-style breakfast try one of Cancún's coffee shops. At Vips, a popular chain with branches all over the country, you can order standards like huevos motuleños—two fried eggs, peas and diced ham atop a crispy tortilla covered in tomato sauce, with pureed black beans and slices of fried banana on the side. This, plus toast, orange juice and good cafe americano, will fill you up for about $10. The Hotel Zone Vips is next to the Cancún Center.

Restaurants in the large hotels use purified water for cooking and for washing produce; inquire about this health procedure specifically at places to eat on the mainland. In general, avoid ice cubes in drinks unless you know purified water has been used, and stay away from uncooked fruits and vegetables. See the Lodgings & Restaurants section for AAA Diamond designated nearby restaurants.

Cancún Shopping

If you're looking for fun things to do in Ciudad Cancún, a variety of shops and open-air craft markets line Avenida Tulum (Mex. 307). Mercado Ki-Huic , near the intersection of Avenida Tulum (Mex. 307) and Avenida Labná (about six blocks south of Avenida Coba/Boulevard Kukulcán), is a flea market a block long with more than 100 vendors offering handicrafts, knickknacks, marble chess sets, men's guayabera shirts, huipil (ee-PEEL) dresses and Panama hats.

Another downtown crafts market that's worth a trip is Mercado 28 , off Avenida Xel-Ha. In addition to vendors selling every imaginable type of trinket and souvenir, this open-air market has lots of local restaurants and places to eat. It all adds up to a colorful hodgepodge that's fun to visit. Bargaining is expected, and some sellers can be aggressive, especially if there aren't that many potential customers wandering around.

As a duty-free zone Cancún offers potential bargains on international merchandise. High-quality tequila and cigars are two of the most popular purchases. Ultrafemme , Av. Tulum #111 (about 4 blocks north of Avenida Cobá), has good buys on cosmetics, jewelry and imported perfume; there also are Ultrafemme locations in several malls and at the airport.

Ciudad Cancún's major mall is Plaza las Americas , several blocks south of Avenida Cobá/Boulevard Kukulcán between Avenida Tulum and Avenida Bonampak. In addition to department stores Liverpool and Sears and a Chedraui grocery store, it has more than 200 other stores and boutiques that are a mix of local businesses and mall favorites like Benetton. There's also a Sanborns restaurant, a food court and the Cinépolis movie multiplex.

If you feel the need to shop for basics while on vacation, branches of three familiar stateside retailers also are in Ciudad Cancún. Costco is at the corner of avenidas Rojo Gomez and Yaxchilán, while Sam's Club and Walmart are adjacent to each other near the intersection of avenidas Xcaret and Yaxchilán. Pick up convenience items at an Oxxo store (similar to 7-11); there are numerous branches downtown and a couple in the Hotel Zone.

Shopping in the Hotel Zone usually focuses on two things: pricey specialty items, or T-shirts and beach supplies. Window-shopping is a popular pastime, but don't expect a lot of bargains. For garden-variety souvenirs it pays to look around, as merchants compete vigorously for tourist dollars and prices can be on the steep side. Inspect carefully before buying; quality can vary greatly.

Plaza Caracol is at Boulevard Kukulcán Km 8.5 (next to the Cancún Center). This mall's marble walls and floors provide an elegant-looking setting for shops and boutiques offering jewelry, designer clothing, resort wear, silver and decorative art. Pharmacies, art galleries, cafés and nearby restaurants are also on the premises.

Forum-by-the-Sea , Km 9.5 near the Cancún Center, is a three-level entertainment complex. There are specialty boutiques like Nike Store and Zingara Swimwear, as well as retailers selling the ubiquitous sunglasses, jewelry and souvenirs. The emphasis, however, is on restaurants, bars and nightspots, including a branch of popular chain Carlos 'n Charlie's.

Flamingo Plaza , Km 11.5 on Kukulcán (lagoon side), is a one-level shopping center with boutiques selling resort fashions, jewelry and arts and crafts, along with a currency exchange office, an internet café and restaurants like Bubba Gump Shrimp Company and Outback Steakhouse.

The Hotel Zone's hottest mall destination is La Isla Shopping Village , Km 12.5 on Kukulcán (lagoon side). La Isla is as bright and shiny as anything you'll find back home. The stores and shops are linked by bridges and walkways crisscrossing small canals. Among the familiar stateside eateries are Johnny Rockets and Chili's. There also is a movie multiplex, the Interactive Aquarium Cancún and other family-friendly features and things to do. It's upscale and expensive but one of the fun places to go to spend a few hours, especially on a rainy day.

At Km marker 13 is Kukulcán Plaza , which caters to tourists with stores and boutiques offering gifts, handicrafts, perfume, leather goods, jewelry and silver. It also contains a parking garage, bank, currency exchange offices, drugstores and a food court that includes U.S. fast-food franchises. The mall's “Luxury Avenue” features such high-end retailers as Burberry, Cartier, Fendi, Montblanc and Salvatore Ferragamo.

The Mercado de Artesanías Coral Negro , a peach-colored building just south of the Cancún Center (at the point where Boulevard Kukulcán splits), is the only flea market in the Hotel Zone. The selection of items encompasses everything from sombreros and painted pottery to toys and T-shirts. You can also get a temporary tattoo or have your hair braided. Unlike at shops where prices are fixed, haggling with the vendors is expected here.

Most of the mall stores are open daily 10-8 or 10 p.m. Outside the Hotel Zone some stores observe the traditional siesta and close for a few hours in the afternoon. Hours for craft and souvenir markets may vary seasonally. The sales tax is 16 percent, which may be waived at some shops if you pay in cash. Paying with cash instead of a credit card may also lower the price when bargaining with vendors. Almost all stores will accept U.S. dollars, and at some establishments prices are quoted in dollars rather than pesos.

Best Beaches in Cancún

Hurricane Wilma decimated Cancún's spectacular Caribbean beaches, which were literally replaced when sand dredged from the bottom 20 miles offshore was dumped on top of areas where the storm's fury had completely washed it away. That means they're artificial, which makes little difference to visitors on a Cancún vacation—the white sand is soft and fine grained, and the water ranges in color from opalescent green to vivid turquoise. It's also warm enough for swimming all year.

The beaches at the northern end of the Hotel Zone fronting Bahía Mujeres are narrow and have calm, shallow water. Those fronting the Caribbean are wider and more dramatic, with occasional crashing breakers and dangerous undertows.

The best beaches are in front of the big hotels. All beaches in Mexico, however, are federally owned and therefore public, even stretches that may seem like they are on hotel property. Keep in mind that you cannot use hotel facilities unless you are a guest, although changing areas and outdoor showers are available. Note the flags posted to indicate surf conditions. A green flag indicates safe conditions for swimming; yellow indicates caution; and red or black, dangerous conditions. Riptides can be unpredictable; when conditions are dangerous, do not venture past where you can safely stand.

The biggest issue facing Cancún's beaches today is the recent arrival of a smelly seaweed known as sargassum. Stick to the northern beaches to avoid the worst of it.

The “inner” coast of Cancún Island borders saltwater Nichupté Lagoon. Much of the lagoon is lined with stands of mangrove. Nichupté doesn't have the Caribbean's beauty, but the calm water is ideal for things to do like boating and water skiing, and the local restaurants along the shore are popular places for sunset watching.

The following designated public beaches are described in the order they appear along Cancún Island, beginning at the top of the island's “seven” configuration after leaving the mainland.

Playa Linda

Playa Langosta

Playa Tortugas

Playa Caracol

Playa Chac-Mool

Playa Delfines

Cancún Sightseeing

One fun—and free—sightseeing activity is to go hotel hopping. The Hotel Zone is chock-full of architecturally striking resorts, and even if you're staying at one it's worth checking out some of the others (consider it research for your next vacation). The public “Hoteles” buses that travel the length of Boulevard Kukulcán are the best way to get from one property to another, as they stop frequently and will let you off right at the hotel entrance (keep in mind, however, that you must pay bus fare each time you reboard).

Many resorts are state-of-the-art examples of imaginative design, with lavish public areas and swimming pool complexes looking out onto the Caribbean's aquamarine waters. It doesn't cost anything to tour a property, and you can take your pick of restaurants and lounges to indulge in a leisurely lunch or a relaxing pit stop. However, many all-inclusive resorts, such as the Beach Palace Cancún and Hotel RIU Cancún, do not allow non-guests to walk around their public areas.

Which ones should you see? The Fiesta Americana Grand Coral Beach Resort & Spa has a spacious, high-ceilinged lobby that radiates understated luxury—marble floors, giant flower arrangements and fine art displayed in recessed wall nooks, with cozy sitting areas scattered about. The Paradisus Cancún Resort is one of the largest properties in the Hotel Zone, with the guest rooms housed in five soaring, pyramid-shaped buildings. The public areas here are jungle-like, festooned with hanging plants, dripping with water and incorporating decorative elements—including oversized statues, frescos and calendars—that reflect Mayan motifs and culture. “Expansive” best describes the Iberostar Cancún, a dramatic pyramidal building with an enormous lobby and a series of interconnected pools that end up looking out on a spectacular stretch of beach.

Cancún is not a cruise ship destination, but that doesn't mean you can't take a cruise. Boats ply Nichupté Lagoon and the waters around Cancún Island, Cozumel and Isla Mujeres. Prices range from about $50-$70 (U.S.) per person, including beverages and entertainment. It's one of the fun things to do with friends and is a great option for group travel. Boat operators and itineraries change, so check with your hotel or a local travel agency to see what's available.

Aquaworld Marina, at Km 15.2 on the lagoon side of Boulevard Kukulcán, offers an Isla Mujeres day trip that includes ferry transportation to the island, a visit to a beach club, a buffet lunch and time for shopping; phone (998) 848-8326 for more information and to make travel reservations.

Outdoor Activities in Cancún

Water sports, not surprisingly, top Cancún's list of leisure activities and fun things to do.

Fishing is excellent; the open Caribbean, Mujeres Bay, the channel between Cozumel and the mainland, and the waters of Nichupté Lagoon together are home to some 500 species, including all types of game fish. Bonito, dorado and sailfish run from March into July; bluefin tuna from April through June. Barracuda, grouper, mackerel and red snapper can be hooked all year.

Hotel Zone marinas offer a range of vessels and top-of-the-line equipment that are perfect for group travel. Larger boats are 35-40 feet long; single-engine diesel boats average 26-28 feet. Four- and 8-hour charter excursions normally include a captain, first mate, gear, bait and soft drinks. Cost varies and the marinas compete for business, so it pays to shop around; ask at your hotel for recommendations.

Scuba diving and snorkeling are best at the southern end of Cancún Island around Nizuc Point, off Cozumel and Isla Mujeres, and in Nichupté Lagoon. Dive shops along Boulevard Kukulcán rent equipment, give lessons and schedule trips if you're looking for things to do this weekend; some hotels also can arrange dive excursions. Check credentials, and if possible get the inside scoop from a diver familiar with the area. Diving conditions are best from May or June through August.

Scuba Cancún, on the lagoon side of Kukulcán at Km marker 5 (across from Playa Langosta), offers daily snorkeling trips that visit local reefs (on Tuesday and Thursday through Sunday) and the Underwater Museum of Art (MUSA) on Tuesday and Friday. All-day snorkeling excursions to Cozumel depart on Wednesday and Friday; cavern snorkeling trips depart on Thursday and Saturday. Open water certification is required for one- and two-tank dive trips in the waters off Cancún and Cozumel and to destinations along the Riviera Maya coast. Phone (998) 849-5226.

The best place for activities like water skiing, windsurfing, parasailing, swimming and boating is Nichupté Lagoon; ski clubs along Boulevard Kukulcán on the lagoon side rent boats and equipment. Windsurfing propels its participants across the water at exhilarating speeds; the sailboard used by windsurfers is a masted sail attached to a surfboard. Many Hotel Zone swimming pools have the added bonus of the Caribbean as a scenic backdrop.

For those who prefer activities on land there's golf at the Cancún Golf Club at Pok-Ta-Pok, a championship 18-hole course designed by Robert Trent Jones Jr. Located on an island between Laguna de Bojórquez and Laguna Nichupté (access is off Boulevard Kukulcán at Km 7.5), it offers fine views of both lagoons and the Caribbean. Shoes, carts and clubs are available for rent, and there is a pro shop. Reservations are advised; phone (998) 883-1230 or (998) 883-1277.

Another championship 18-hole course is at the Iberostar Cancún, off Kukulcán at Km 17; phone (998) 881-8000 for reservations information. Greens fees vary depending on the season and are less for hotel guests.

There are tennis courts at the Hard Rock Hotel Cancún, the Hyatt Zilara Cancún and the Marriott Casamagna Cancún Resort, among others. A jogging and bicycling path—also used for roller blading—parallels the sidewalk along the northern (bay) side of Boulevard Kukulcán, extending as far as Cancún Point; a path also parallels the sidewalk along most of the southern half of the Hotel Zone.

If you're looking for fun places to go to relax—and are willing to pay the price—the spa at the Grand Fiesta Americana Coral Beach Cancún All Inclusive Spa Resort , Boulevard Kukulcán Km 9.5, offers hydrotherapy, massage and facial and body treatments, plus lap and plunge pools. An appointment is required; for information phone (998) 881-3200.

Cancún Nightlife

Cancún provides something for everyone after dark, from rowdy spring break hangouts that are fun things to do with friends to traditional Mexican and Caribbean-themed dinner shows. Hotels also get in the act with lobby bars, happy-hour specials and varied entertainment. But it's the Hotel Zone dance clubs, the majority of them concentrated in the vicinity of Cancún Point, that give this resort destination its well-deserved reputation for wild nightlife.

Most clubs open around 9:30 or 10 p.m. and stay open as late as 6 a.m. Cover charges begin at about $15 (U.S.), go up considerably if there's an open bar, and may be waived on certain nights in low season; at some places women are routinely admitted free of charge. Inquire about the dress code, as some don't allow jeans or shorts.

For the Party Crowd

Coco Bongo , at Km 9.5 on Kukulcán (in the Forum-by-the-Sea shopping complex), draws young scenesters with a mix of recorded techno, hip-hop, house, salsa and '70s and '80s hits, as well as live bands. This cavernous space regularly packs in as many as 3,000 people. The cover charge, which includes an open bar, is about $70 to $80 (U.S.) and can reach upwards of $200 for a front row experience, so it pays to take advantage of promotional coupons or hotel excursion deals; both are readily available depending on the season.

The City , also at Km 9.5 in front of Coco Bongo, brings in international DJs who spin pulsating dance music accompanied by dizzying light shows. With multiple bars and lounges and a beach club that has a wave pool, cabanas and food and drink service, this is a 24-hour hangout during spring break. An open bar ticket is available.

Dady'O , at Km 9.5 on Kukulcán (near the Cancún Center), is a granddaddy as far as longevity goes but is still very popular. It has six bars, tables on multiple levels, a VIP zone, a first-rate sound system, laser shows and appearances by visiting DJs. Additional entertainment ranges from themed parties to bikini contests. An open bar ticket is available.

There's more of the same—thumping beats, flashing lights and dance floors packed with partygoers dancing to deafening electronic music—at Mandala and Palazzo , clubs on opposite sides of Kukulcán at Km marker 9. La Vaquita Cancún , across the street from The City, has an open-air layout and music that ranges from Top 40s to hip-hop to Latin American.

For those who love to party there are plenty of places that combine food, music and a frathouse sense of fun. Two Mexican chains—Carlos 'n Charlie's, in the Forum-by-the-Sea complex, and Señor Frog's, at Km 9.5 on Kukulcán—are noisy and invariably crowded, with waiters who get as crazy as the patrons.

All of these places target a younger crowd and are at their rowdiest during spring break, which begins in mid-February and lasts for about 2 months. Excessive alcohol consumption associated with partying is common; the legal drinking age in Mexico is 18 but is not uniformly enforced.

More Nightclubs and Bars

Somewhat less wild and more upscale is Noir Nightclub , in the Sunrise section at the Moon Palace Golf & Spa Resort complex (off Mex. 307 past the southern end of the Hotel Zone, about 8 kilometers/5 miles south of the airport). Lighting and audio systems are state of the art, and there are chic, comfortably furnished VIP areas where you can chill out in style. It's open Tuesday, Thursday, Friday and Saturday evenings until 3 a.m.

Nearby restaurants and hotel lobbies offer more places to hangout after dark. If you prefer a quieter evening, most of the resort hotels have a nightclub or lobby bar with jazz or other live music; the lobby lounge at The Ritz-Carlton, Cancún is particularly elegant.

Guided Party Tours

For those who don't want to stand in line—or pay exorbitant cover charges three times over—the escorted “Cun Crawl” Party Hopper Tour does the work for you. It gets under way at 10 p.m. and hits three venues that vary according to the day of the week; the meeting point is at the entrance of the first club on the itinerary. The cost is $80 (U.S.) per person Thurs.-Sat., $75 Sun. and Tues.-Wed., which includes a reserved VIP seating area at each club. Transportation to the meeting point is not included, but clubs on the itinerary are within walking distance of each other. You must be over 18 to participate; a photo ID is required. Reservations can be booked online, or inquire at your hotel for additional information.

Dinner Shows and Cruises

If you're wondering where to eat and see a show on your vacation. Hacienda Sisal Mexican Grill, at Km 13.5 on Kukulcán, presents weeknight buffet dinner shows featuring traditional Mexican folk dancing; phone (998) 848-8220 for schedule information. On nights when there is no show, dinner at this beautifully decorated restaurant—which re-creates the look of a 19th-century Mexican hacienda—comes complete with strolling mariachis.

Romantics searching for things for couples to do will enjoy a moonlit cruise. The Columbus Lobster Dinner Cruise sets sail for Nichupté Lagoon from the Aquatours Marina pier at Km 6.5 on Kukulcán (on the lagoon side, across from Playa Tortugas). A lobster or surf-and-turf dinner is served aboard the 60-foot galleon Columbus, along with dancing to live jazz.

Departures are Mon.-Fri. and Sun. at 5 and 8 p.m. (also Sat. in spring high season). Arriving 30 minutes before scheduled departure is recommended. Reservations are required; under 14 are not permitted. Transportation to the pier is not included. You can book reservations for this excursion through a local tour company, major hotels, or directly; phone 01 (800) 727-5391 (toll-free long distance within Mexico) or (866) 393-5158 (from the United States).

The Captain Hook Dinner Cruise departs from two locations: the Puerto Juárez Maritime Terminal, about 2 miles north of Ciudad Cancún via Avenida López Portillo (about 100 yards north of the Gran Puerto dock, departure point for UltraMar ferries to Isla Mujeres), and from the Captain Hook Marina at Boulevard Kukulcán Km marker 5. The cruise includes dinner and drinks aboard twin galleons that are “attacked” by pirates. The boats light up after the sun sets, with live entertainment, music and dancing under the stars.

The cruise departs daily (except Jan. 1 and Christmas) at 7 p.m. and returns at 10:30. The cost ranges from $70-$102 depending on the dinner selection; $35-$51 (ages 6-12). Adult dinner prices include an open bar. Hotel pickup and drop-off is available for an additional charge. A surcharge fee of $14 U.S. ($5 for ages 6-12) must be paid upon arrival at either dock. For reservations and additional information phone (998) 849-4452.

For a special occasion evening, head down toward Playa del Carmen and catch the Cirque du Soleil production “Joya” at the Cirque du Soleil Theater , off Mex. 307 at Km marker 48 (about 20 miles south of Cancún International Airport). The 70-minute show delivers the eye-popping production values and performances for which Cirque du Soleil extravaganzas are known. Dinner and show and VIP dinner packages also are available.

Round-trip transportation is included for an additional cost; pickup points are at La Isla Shopping Village in the Hotel Zone and at Plaza Playacar in Playa del Carmen (within the Playacar Residential Complex). Reservations can be made through Cirque du Soleil or a local tour company, or check with your hotel for details about booking arrangements. For show times and additional information or to make reservations via Cirque du Soleil, phone 01 (800) 247-7837 (toll-free long distance within Mexico) or (844) 247-7837 (from the United States and Canada).

Cancún Events

In addition to its many cultural and historic landmarks, this destination hosts a number of outstanding festivals, events and fun things to do that may coincide with your trip.

The Day of the Kings (Feast of the Epiphany, or El Día de Los Reyes) on Jan. 6 is a day of gift-giving. Local restaurants serve a King's Cake (Rosca de Reyes) that contains a small plastic Jesus doll (El Niño) inside. The person receiving the piece with the doll acts as a host on Candlemas (La Candeleria), the season's final Christmas celebration held the first week in February, when a meal of tamales and hot chocolate is served in homes and restaurants.

Carnaval, a fiesta in the spirit of Mardi Gras, is held the week preceding Ash Wednesday. Residents dress up in elaborate costumes, floats parade down the streets of Ciudad Cancún, and there are street parties featuring dancing, fireworks and regional foods and beverages. It's one of the many fun things to do with friends in Cancún.

On Mar. 21 the Vernal Equinox (Inicio Primavera) is observed at Chichén Itzá. When the late afternoon sun shines on El Castillo, a shadow remarkably reminiscent of a slithering serpent appears on the side of the pyramid. Thousands of people attend this event. Contact your local AAA travel advisor for help with planning your vacation packages.

As in all of Mexico, Independence Day (Patria de la Independencia) festivities take place Sept. 15-16 and include fireworks, a parade (on the 16th) and traditional food. Father Miguel Hidalgo's famous speech Grito de Dolores is re-enacted as people gather at midnight to shout out “Viva México!” It's a fun event to add to your family vacation.

The Eve of All Souls' Day, Oct. 31, is observed throughout the Yucatán by adorning headstones with wreaths of marigolds and placing candles and offerings of food and tequila at gravesites. Day of the Dead graveside and church ceremonies take place amid a party-like atmosphere Nov. 1 and 2, with bakeries doing big business turning out various skull-shaped pastries.

Interested in things to do around the holidays? Christmas celebrations begin 9 days prior to Dec. 25 and feature posadas (processions) of families and friends who take part in pastorelas (plays) portraying Jesus' birth, along with street fairs, piñata smashing and other festivities. One highlight of the season is the display of nativity scenes.

Which Hotels to See in Cancún's Hotel Zone

By AAA Travel Editor

Cancún's Hotel Zone is full of architecturally striking resorts, and even if you're staying at one of them it's worth checking out some of the others—if only as research for your next vacation. Hotel hopping is one of the fun and free things to do in Cancún, and you don't even need a car; getting from one property to another is easy if you take one of the local city buses (numbered “R-1” on the windshield) that travel up and down Boulevard Kukulcán. They make frequent stops and run until late at night, and the fixed fare is a mere 9.5 pesos—much cheaper than a taxi.

Following is a suggested hotel-hopping tour that might inspire you to come up with your own version. (Note: Some of the all-inclusive resorts do not allow non-guests to walk around their public areas.)

Begin with breakfast at Vips, a bright, cheery restaurant and coffee shop located on Boulevard Kukulcán next to the Cancún Center. It's in the thick of the Hotel Zone and is just a short walk from the first resort on your itinerary. One of their Mexican-style breakfasts with eggs, beans (frijoles), toast, juice and coffee should keep you filled up until lunch.

From Vips, cross the northern extension of Boulevard Kukulcán to the large, peach-colored Grand Fiesta Americana Coral Beach Cancun All Inclusive Spa Resort . This opulent hotel has a spacious, high-ceilinged lobby that radiates understated luxury—marble floors, giant flower arrangements and fine art displayed in recessed wall nooks, with cozy sitting areas scattered about. Look straight up for a view of the large, square piece of kaleidoscope-patterned stained glass. If you skipped Vips, have an early lunch at Isla Contoy, the hotel's breezy poolside restaurant; it has a thatched roof and a view of the beach.

A bit farther down Boulevard Kukulcán is the Paradisus Cancun Resort . This is one of the largest properties in the Hotel Zone, with five soaring, pyramid-shaped buildings housing the guest rooms. The public areas feature statues, frescoes and decorative elements with a Mayan motif. Have a cocktail while you peruse the menu of small bites at the Avenue Bar, which offers a nice beach view.

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