Isla Mujeres, Quintana Roo

This little slip of an island in Mujeres Bay is within sight of Cancún's Hotel Zone, and getting there on a ferry boat is part of the fun. As soon as you leave the Cancún dock you're surrounded by intensely hued water that ranges from sea foam green to pastel aquamarine to deep, deep turquoise, the colors constantly shifting with the interplay of sun and clouds. The little boat bobs up and down on the waves, sending salt spray flying.

First appearing as an indistinct blur on the horizon, Isla Mujeres begins to take shape as the boat draws closer. Details emerge—palm trees, clapboard buildings, fishing boats. And before you know it you've reached another dock and disembark to a scene that is a bit different than the one you left.

Gold-seeking Spanish explorers led by Francisco Hernández de Córdoba accidentally discovered Isla Mujeres in 1517 after a storm blew their expedition off course. The origin of the name is based on two legends. One maintains that seafaring buccaneers used the island as a hideaway for stowing their female captives; slave trader Fermín Mundaca built a beautiful hacienda here in an effort to woo an island girl. But a more likely explanation is that it refers to the carved stone images of Ixchel, the Mayan goddess of love and fertility, discovered by the Spaniards.

After the era of pirates and smugglers passed, Isla Mujeres was quite content to be just another idyllic Caribbean island where people fished for a living. It was discovered again during the 1960s, this time by hippies and beach bums who dug the laid-back atmosphere. And since Cancún's ascendance to world-famous tourist destination Isla has gotten more and more spillover from its big, flashy mainland neighbor. But it's also a place where people live; while you're on vacation, for residents it's just another day. And the chance to be part of daily Mexican life—if only for a few hours—is what makes this island special.

You'll get into the spirit as soon as you start strolling along Avenida Rueda Medina, the malecón, which runs along the waterfront. The sidewalk is a jumble of sunburned gringos, locals and occasional dogs that might suddenly plop down under the shade of a coconut palm (the sound of palm fronds rustling in the ever-present breeze is a constant backdrop). Vendors sit next to their displays—bead necklaces, seashells, starfish, sandals, sombreros. The street is clogged with taxis, mopeds, golf carts and scooters, but no one is really in a hurry. Stop and breathe in the aroma of fresh fish grilling at a loncheria (casual open-air restaurant).

Then explore a few of the downtown side streets. Narrow Avenida Hidalgo, two blocks inland from the waterfront, is for pedestrians only, and thus invites browsers to linger at the many shops and vendor stalls. Turn a corner and you might see a group of school kids in immaculate uniforms skipping along the sidewalk. Many of the buildings have festive crayon colors—pink, peach, lime green, bright blue. Stop at a cafe for a cup of coffee or a freshly blended fruit smoothie. Above all, relax.

Many people spend their entire vacation on Isla Mujeres, since accommodations run the gamut from no-frills in-town motels to exclusive beachside retreats. But one of the island's calling cards is that it's just a half-hour boat ride away. You can leave Cancún in the morning, go shopping, have lunch and take an afternoon ferry back. You can leave around noon, go snorkeling or while away an afternoon sunning on the beach, and be back in time for dinner. Or you can leave in the late afternoon, enjoy dinner and a fun evening on Isla, and catch the last ferry back to the mainland. It's the perfect day trip.

Practicalities

UltraMar ferries depart from the Gran Puerto dock on Avenida López Portillo in Puerto Juárez daily at 7, 9, 11, 3, 5 and 7, then depart hourly until 11:30 p.m. The final departure from Isla Mujeres back to Gran Puerto is at midnight. The trip takes about 15-20 minutes; one-way fare is 160 pesos, round trip fare 300 pesos. Double-check the time of the final departure back to Cancún when you arrive.

UltraMar ferries depart from the El Embarcadero dock daily at 9:15, 11:45, 1, 2:15 and 4:30. The final departure from Isla Mujeres back to El Embarcadero is at 5:15 p.m. One-way fare is $14 (U.S.); round-trip fare $19. UltraMar boats also depart from the Playa Tortugas dock daily on the hour 9-5, returning from Isla Mujeres approximately every 30 minutes 9:30-5:30. One-way fare is $14 (U.S.); round-trip fare $19.

If you're basing a vacation in Isla Mujeres and have several pieces of luggage, taxis line up by the two town docks for the short ride to the hotels concentrated in town and scattered along the beaches. The fare shouldn't be more than a few dollars. Taxis also can be hired (at an hourly rate) for a tour of the island or to reach beaches at the southern end. A municipal bus travels from the Posada del Mar Hotel on Avenida Rueda Medina south to Playa Lancheros; the fare is inexpensive. Check with the tourist information office on Avenida Rueda Medina for bus schedules.

Renting a “moto,” the local term for mopeds, or an electric golf cart is an easy way to get around, and there are several places in town that rent both (many of the hotels also rent golf carts). Keep in mind, however, that the rental fee does not include insurance. Some hotels also rent bicycles, which cost considerably less.

The “downtown” section of Isla Mujeres occupies the island's northern end. The main street, referred to locally as the malecón, is Avenida Rueda Medina, which runs the length of the island. The main streets are north-south avenidas Guerrero and Hidalgo, and east-west avenidas Madero and Morelos. These are all narrow, one-way, pedestrian-friendly streets where traffic (mostly taxis and mopeds) moves slowly. The ferry docks, in-town hotels, restaurants, shops, travel agencies, City Hall, the police station, the post office, a couple of farmacias (pharmacies), the island's one bank, casas de cambio (currency exchange offices) and several internet cafés are all within a compact area of about four by six blocks.

Islander, a monthly magazine available at hotels, provides tourist information. A Red Cross (Cruz Roja) clinic is about 5 kilometers (3 miles) south of town, near Playa Lancheros; phone (998) 877-0280.

Things To Do

The most popular beach is Playa Norte, located at the northern edge of town. It's a lovely white-sand beach sprinkled with coconut palms and thatch-roofed palapas. The water is clear, calm and shallow, perfect for swimming or wading. Umbrellas, chairs, jet-skis, three-wheeled water “trikes” and other equipment can be rented. You also may see discreet topless sunbathers at this beach.

Other options are Playa Lancheros and Playa Garrafón, both toward the opposite end of the island on the western (leeward) side. Playa Lancheros is the southernmost beach on the local bus route. The surf is rougher along Isla's eastern coastline, which faces the open Caribbean.

At the very southern tip of the island, on a bluff overlooking the sea, once stood the reconstructed remains of a Mayan temple believed to have been built in honor of the fertility goddess Ixchel. Archeologists believe that the Maya, en route to Cozumel on pilgrimages to worship Ixchel, stopped over at Isla Mujeres. In 1988 Hurricane Gilbert reduced it to a pile of stones, but there are fine views of the sea. A 30-foot-tall lighthouse nearby was left standing. A taxi ride from downtown costs about $10 (U.S.).

Branching east off Rueda Medina, a paved road follows the eastern edge of the island back toward town. If you've rented a golf cart, this is a nice route with plenty of pull-offs to take in views of the open sea.

Offshore coral reefs and the Cave of the Sleeping Sharks (Cueva de Los Tiburones Durmientes) attract scuba divers. The underwater cave, off the northern tip of Contoy Island National Park, was discovered in the late 1960s. The reason for the sharks' seemingly narcotized state has been attributed to everything from varying salinity levels to lack of carbon dioxide in the underwater caverns to constant currents that supply the oxygen allowing the creatures to remain stationary. Whatever the cause, this is a challenging dive to depths of 150 feet or more, with no guarantee that the sharks will be around.

Another site for advanced divers is the Ultrafreeze (El Frio) wreck, a cargo ship that caught fire in 1979 and was towed to the open sea to be sunk. Many forms of marine life, including small and large fish, stingrays and turtles, can be seen.

Manchones Reef, just off the island's southern tip, is more than 2,500 feet long. Blue tangs, wrasses, parrot fish, angelfish and red snapper are among the tropical species that swarm over the reef, which exhibits a variety of coral formations. The water depth is 30 to 40 feet. Manchones also is the site of the underwater statue Cross of the Bay (Cruz de la Bahía).

The summer months of June, July and August, when the water is calm, are best for diving. Aqua Adventures Eco Divers, one block east of the UltraMar ferry dock at the corner of Avenida Juárez and Avenida Morelos, offers certification classes. Their knowledgeable instructors can arrange trips to local dive sites, as well as snorkeling and whale shark excursions; phone (998) 236-4316. Carey Dive Center, Av. Matamoros #13-A at Avenida Rueda Medina (3 blocks north of the passenger ferry dock), also offers instruction and organizes snorkeling trips; phone (998) 877-0763.

The Boatmen's Cooperative (Cooperativa Isla Mujeres), on Avenida Rueda Medina at the foot of Avenida Madero (near the ferry dock), handles snorkeling and sport-fishing excursions as well as day trips to Isla Contoy. Some outings require a minimum number of passengers. Billfish (swordfish and marlin) are a good possibility in April and May; during the rest of the year catches include bonito, grouper and red snapper.

Shopping & Entertainment

Avenida Hidalgo, 2 blocks in from the waterfront, is a pedestrian-only thoroughfare with more shops and vendor stands, along with several restaurants that have outdoor tables. It's a pleasant little street to wander along. At Galería de Arte Mexico, Av. Guerrero #3, the handicrafts for sale include ceramics, silver jewelry, talavera tile and hand-painted Oaxacan rugs.

One of the nicest restaurants on the island is Zazil-Ha, in the Hotel Na Balam on Calle Zazil (at Playa Norte). The seafood dishes are well-prepared, and diners have a choice of eating indoors or in an open-air garden setting.

At Roticeria La Mexicana, on Avenida Hidalgo near Avenida Adolfo Lopez Mateos, you can get a whole roasted chicken that comes with rice, beans, marinated onions and tortillas. It's a good takeout meal for a beach picnic.

The beachside restaurant at Playa Lancheros offers fresh ceviche and the Yucatecan style of fish preparation known as tikin xic. Look for the thatched palapa roof. If you want to sample local cookery, check out the food vendors at the Municipal Market (Mercado Municipal), on Avenida Guerrero next to the post office.

Isla Mujeres is not known for frenetic nightlife, which suits most visitors just fine. The palapas along Playa Norte are a great place for sunset watching. Most of the restaurant bars have a late afternoon happy hour, and a few offer live music and dancing.

Visitor Centers

Things to Do

Dolphin Discovery

Garrafón Park