Discover 'Old Florida' on the River of Lakes Heritage Corridor Scenic Byway

Amid theme parks and beautiful beaches, the 156-mile River of Lakes Heritage Corridor offers a meandering scenic byway that's full of Florida history. Along this route, you’ll come across cultural attractions and trails as well as many scenic bodies of water that complement the usual trip to the Sunshine State. Most of the road trip is in Volusia County, except historic Sanford in nearby Seminole, so I find it's a great road trip to take if you're exploring Orlando attractions but wanting to end up on the Atlantic Coast — close enough for a side trip to Kennedy Space Center.

The River of Lakes Heritage Corridor starts in pastoral Seville and Pierson in northern Volusia County. Then the byway moves from West Volusia springs to attractions in DeLand and Sanford toward the southern terminus, Oak Hill, where you can access the North Indian River and Mosquito Lagoon. Like most waterways, the route also includes diversions where you can branch off, whether to see the top Central Florida springs, take a selfie on a mural trail or enjoy seafood by the waterfront.

One of the special things to know about the byway is that it’s inspired by the Florida native Timucua peoples’ word for the St. Johns River, aka “Welaka,” or River of Lakes, which is said to be the heart of the region. The St. Johns River has been a lifeline for people who have settled here. Even now navigating the waterways is still a great pastime, and you can board a pontoon at De Leon Springs or even book a nostalgic paddleboat ride in Sanford to get a sense of the waterways. So let's navigate this scenic byway together to experience the best of Florida's natural wonders.

Note: The following six legs represent a curated portion of the River of Lakes Heritage Corridor Scenic Byway. While the full byway stretches 156 miles and is presented here, this journey acknowledges the major routes but focuses on the middle, highlighting its adjoining lakes, accessible springs, communities and natural areas — ideal for at least a one‑day adventure. For a longer route, there are loops and spur routes, such as to Hontoon Island State Park or historic Lake Helen.

Gail Shotlander / Getty Images

This stretch of US 17 S may seem an unusual road‑trip route, but these rural towns reflect a possibly bygone way of Florida life. As stops on the railroad from Jacksonville in the 19th century, they witnessed the rapid growth of Florida. Seville faced yellow-fever scares and historic citrus freezes, but through ups and downs, has endured. Nearby Pierson diversified, growing into the “Fern Capital of the World,” as its welcome sign proudly declares.

There are plenty of recreational things to do, especially if Lake George Conservation Area is on your trip itinerary. The second largest lake in Florida, Lake George is part of the St. Johns River basin and is renowned for fishing and birding. (You could spend the day here fishing on the Lake George Park Fishing Pier, birding or road-tripping around the conservation area.) There are also other notable local lakes, e.g. Lake Woodruff and Spring Garden Lake, that we’ll approach closer to De Leon Springs.

Keep on US 17 S to continue this road trip, and you’ll pass quirky hand-painted art and lawn sculptures for sale by the side of the road in unincorporated Barberville, where there's also a living history museum. Afterward, it’s time to head under the arches of a unique state park and experience an early Florida roadside attraction known for its “healing waters.”

Other things to do:

Places to stay:

AAA / Sherry Mims

The 625‑acre grounds of this state park give an Old Florida vibe, with painted signs and a friendly ranger who asked what we knew about the site’s surprisingly layered history. Early hype once linked the area to Spanish explorer Juan Ponce de León, the Fountain of Youth and even the Ponce de Leon Hotel in St. Augustine, but neither De León nor the later Pedro Menéndez de Avilés ever came very close to this scenic destination. Its Indigenous history, however, reaches back at least 6,000 years, reflected in archeological finds such as ancient dugout canoes discovered on‑site. The springs have fed into Spring Garden Run and Lake Woodruff National Wildlife Refuge and attracted development over the centuries. The area has served many functions: a plantation and sugar mill, which was destroyed in the 1835 Second Seminole War and later by Union troops; transformed into a mid‑century roadside attraction; and ultimately preserved as a state park. Admission is budget‑friendly ($6 for two to eight passengers); our midweek January arrival meant no wait.

Arriving early at the state park on a particularly chilly morning proved advantageous for our group of three. As I pulled into a parking spot, the turquoise spring waters appeared to be steaming. At around 37 degrees Fahrenheit, we were witnessing steam fog, also called evaporation fog, which forms when cold air moves across warmer water. The effect was striking, and despite the chill (or maybe because of it), swimmers eased into the spring for their morning laps while we ducked into the replica sugar mill to warm up over breakfast.

AAA Approved Old Sugar Mill Pancake House is a popular place to go, especially at breakfast. Each table has a griddle to cook up your own pancakes. There's usually a wait, but to our surprise, we walked right in, settled near the crackling fireplace and ordered enough buttermilk pancakes (and the day’s pecan special) that we had leftovers.

After a filling meal, we headed out to a spot where our server had said a manatee and her calf had been seen; cold weather attracts these “sea cows” to the springs, which stays a constant 72 degrees. Though the manatees were long gone, there was still plenty to see, including plantation ruins and historic markers detailing everything from John James Audubon’s visit to the park to its reinvention as a Florida roadside attraction (complete with a water‑skiing elephant).

If you go, be sure to walk around to see the sights, including the visitor center, wheel-chair accessible trail and 50-minute Fountain of Youth Eco/Heritage Boat Tour, which takes you to the spring and Lake Woodruff to get a deeper sense of the area history and why the Mayaca tribe called these Acuera (healing waters). With so much to see, it’s no surprise swimmers and divers still take to the crystal‑clear spring, even on some of Florida’s coldest days.

Other things to do:

AAA / Teyona Miller

DeLand is a gateway on this scenic byway. Though we continued the route, you may want to stay overnight at one of the AAA Diamond hotels below and take the byway's spur routes or loops to experience everything from indigenous heritage at Hontoon Island State Park to murals and stage shows in a city long known for its arts and culture. Founded by Henry A. DeLand in 1876, the City of DeLand is a place with a strong sense of identity, recognized as Tree City USA for decades and named one of the South’s Best Small Towns by publications like Southern Living. Even on this chilly day, people were out and about, thanks in part to the DeLand SunRail station, where a free shuttle delivers day-trippers into the heart of downtown.

As you drive along tree-lined Woodland Boulevard, you’ll pass the stately campus of Stetson University and the Museum of Art–DeLand before arriving in charming Downtown DeLand. Here, you can shop at cool retailers like Nancy's Vintage and Retro or enjoy a local restaurant, such as Cress, known for farm-fresh produce and sustainable seafood. Make time to see the Athens Theatre, which adds another layer of character to the historic district. Designed circa 1921, this rare example of a classic American theater features a stunning illuminated marquee. On the day we went, children on a field trip were lined up to see Disney’s Alice in Wonderland, Jr., a stage show that seemed to fit with our whimsical plans for the day.

That playful spirit can also be found just a block or so away, where many visitors to DeLand stop to snap an Instagram‑worthy photo with the original DeLand Wings mural by local artist Erica Group. (The piece is part of the Wings of the West Mural Tour, which features Erica Group's art throughout DeLand and other Volusia County destinations on the byway, including Lake Woodruff National Wildlife Refuge, Barberville and Cassadaga.)

Don’t forget to visit nearby cultural institutions either. Just off the main thoroughfare is the African American Museum of the Arts (AAMA). In addition to being included on the scenic byway, the museum is part of the DeLand Black Heritage Trail and promotes multicultural art, historical research and outreach for all ages. Although the museum was temporarily closed on the day we visited, a museum staff member allowed us to walk around the exterior of the new building, admiring the informational placards in the windows and the architecture. From the sidewalk we spotted the Maxwell & Irene Dixon Johnson Cultural Park across the street featuring an eye‑catching black‑and‑yellow stage named the Dr. Noble “Thin Man” Watts Amphitheatre. Next door stood Historic Greater Bethlehem Baptist Church, founded in 1908. All were within easy walking distance.

On the way out of DeLand, we stopped at DeLand Cat Café, a rescue center where you can sip a drink from next‑door Trilogy Kitchen while in the company of adoptable kittens and cats. We arrived around lunch when it wasn’t busy, but staff recommended advance tickets for weekend playdates, which cost less than $10 for kids and $12 for adults. The team happily shares each animal’s personality, e.g. friendly and good with other pets or lap cat better suited to a solo home. On the day we visited, a chalkboard beside the viewing window celebrated 454 successful adoptions. Whether you’re searching for a furry family member or a quick pick-me-up, this niche DeLand attraction is a side quest that’ll send you back on the road with a smile.

Other things to do:

Where to stay:

AAA / Teyona Miller

This next stretch of the byway is less about dramatic scenery and more about following the road into places that surprise you, and Lake Helen packs a lot of sights to see into a smaller footprint: an 1895 historic bed‑and‑breakfast, Colby Alderman Park and the historic Lake Helen – Cassadaga Cemetery. The cemetery not only is the official burial site of medium George P. Colby but also home to the infamous Devil’s Chair — better known as one of a pair of mourning benches where some claim the Devil will drink a beer if left. However, please don’t give into temptation (so to speak) and litter. Locals don’t think much of this urban legend, even the more spiritually inclined folks in the next community over.

But we’re getting ahead of ourselves. Some history is necessary for Cassadaga —often called the “Psychic Capital of the World.”

In brief, the medium Colby, who is said to have raced to Florida to fulfill his destiny, namely a winter Spiritualist community, founded the Southern Cassadaga Spiritualist Camp Meeting Association in 1894. The camp's boundary markers are easy to spot as you approach. Look for parking by the bookstore and welcome center, as you’ll want to stroll the community, where locals often wave hello and members of the resident cat colony may wander by. (They're the beloved subjects of the “Catsadaga Cats” calendar for sale in the bookstore.)

Residents of the town who give readings and healings must be certified psychic mediums (a yearslong process) and cannot use tools such as tarot cards within the camp bounds. You can see who is open for the day in the town bookstore and welcome center; the recommendation is to “book where you’re led.”

If you have time, a history tour is one of the best things to do in Cassadaga, offering a primer on the camp’s origins, alleged energy vortices and more “spirited” residents; the after‑dark spirits tour remains a moodier option. Both experiences include the brick Colby Memorial Temple and its séance room. If you're a daytime visitor, you can continue to Horseshoe Park for another fun Wings mural selfie in the fairy garden or a contemplative loop through the small labyrinth to meditate on how this unusual community took shape and why it continues to intrigue.

Other things to do:

AAA / Thuyvi Gates

• 6 miles – about 11 minutes

Let’s move on from the paranormal to the natural world in the appropriately named Blue Spring State Park, just west of Orange City. Make sure to get here as early as possible because car lines can get long when West Indian Manatees are sheltering here from the cold. On the day we visited, it was a 20-30-minute wait around noon on a weekday. There were 655 manatees noted that day, and eager visitors had to be looped around the entrance; the line was even longer when we left.

Admission is the same as De Leon Springs — per vehicle, with fees increasing with the number of passengers. Once inside, it’s an attractive park, with a snack bar and plenty of picnic tables and other facilities. The boardwalks are well-maintained, with frequent pullouts for a closer look.

What should you look for at Blue Spring State Park? Look for gray, barrel-shaped blobs, aka manatees, huddling beside vegetation. (There might even be a round snout or bubbles coming up to the surface.) Most manatees were a little hard to see, aside from one calf rolling around. What looked cute was more serious than I knew. A ranger told the group next to me that invasive armored catfish often harassed the manatees, including the one in front of us. This invasive species eats algae, which grows on the manatees, and the manatees use their hard-won energy to shoo them off, burning energy that they need to conserve on cold days.

Sobering as it was, the sight of dozens of manatees lingering in the turquoise water still felt overwhelmingly positive. And if you’re traveling with kids, it's a great opportunity for them to learn to care about these gentle sea cows — and there’s even a playground in view of the water for an extra special end to this leg of the journey.

Other things to do:

Where to stay:

AAA / Teyona Miller

Let's shift from bustling spring attractions to some of my favorite quieter springs in Volusia County — Green Springs Park and Gemini Springs Park. Whichever you choose to visit first, the two are only minutes apart and easily accessible, especially for bicyclists. The paved Deltona trailhead at Green Springs connects the East Central Regional Rail Trail with the Florida Coast‑to‑Coast Trail, which will span 153 miles when completed. If you enjoy biking or are curious about a multiday “bikepacking” adventure, this is a great place to bring your wheels. Unlike the earlier springs on our route, both parks are free to enter. Open from sunrise to sunset, they present family‑friendly amenities like playgrounds and picnic tables. Although they have many similarities as county parks, they’re also quite different.

Gemini Springs is an expansive park, a 210-acre public area, which was home to indigenous peoples and later homesteaded. What's most special and interesting about the park are the twin springs (hence Gemini, a Latin term for twins). The park is easy to stroll, with several scenic spots, including a historic house and barn; a small memorial to firefighter Eugene Whelan, 31, who died during the Sept. 11, 2001, terrorist attacks in New York; and a wide lawn where it’s not uncommon to see a soccer game or kids at play. Fishing also is very popular, though check in advance for regulations. There’s a pier, quite scenic, where you'll often spot anglers.

For a more secluded spring, head to Green Springs Park, an early Florida attraction nestled along a road curving alongside Lake Monroe that’s easy to drive by. A short paved walkway leads to the body of water, which is very green and seemingly different shades according to the season you visit but always beautiful and, well, stinky — living up to its former name of Green Sulphur Spring (though without the “s”).

In the 19th century, a hotel once stood here to serve steamboat passengers reaching the end of the St. Johns River route at Enterprise. Despite more low-key amenities, Green Springs still enchants, wrapped in mysterious theories about its origins and rich with stories that stretch from Indigenous people who viewed the waters as healing to later Florida promoters and travel writers who appreciated a good story. According to a marker in front of the spring, one early visitor described the area as a land of “weird, wild, luxuriant nature,” which remains apt today.

Other things to do:

Where to stay:

AAA / Sherry Mims

Depending on how long you lingered at each stop, you might reach Sanford around sunset. The Sanford Riverwalk is an ideal place for a stroll or to take in the Lake Monroe view from one of the bench swings by the marina. A few green spaces are within walking distance, including one with a playground and splash pad called Fort Mellon Park. People‑watching is great, with joggers, bicyclists, anglers and dog‑walkers galore. But the real treat is spotting the birds and alligators that call this body of water home. The St. Johns River is a rare river that flows north and winds through a chain of lakes, including the five‑mile‑wide Lake Monroe.

The City of Sanford first grew along the south shore of Lake Monroe at the head of navigation on the St. Johns River, becoming an important distribution point once commercial steamboat service began in the 1800s. Steamboats traveling between Jacksonville and Sanford helped the city flourish into a major hub for goods like celery as well as travel and early Florida tourism. Even today, It’s well worth the brief detour to board the Barbara‑Lee Sternwheeler for onboard entertainment or to see Downtown Sanford before continuing on to Oak Hill to complete the scenic byway.

Sanford’s brick streets lead to many independent businesses, including cafés, breweries and specialty shops. Among the standouts are Wondermade, known for its artisanal marshmallows and ice cream flavors, and Spellbound Bookstore, a Latina‑owned indie bookstore that offers curated books, gifts and frequent events that might add extra magic to your visit.

If you’re hungry, Downtown Sanford features two can’t‑miss, AAA Diamond‑designated restaurants. Hollerbach’s Willow Tree Cafe is a beloved local institution with authentic German cuisine, live music and a festive atmosphere. Just a short walk away, The Old Jailhouse serves Florida‑fusion cuisine and crafted cocktails inside a preserved 1890 jailhouse complete with original bars and historic photos. We were told reservations are usually needed for The Old Jailhouse on weekends, but weekdays are more relaxed. That was the case for us, and it was a great place to wind down with good food and libations since it was the end of the road for our group. For those setting a course for the Florida coastline, leave on FL 415 southbound toward Oak Hill.

Other things to do:

Where to stay:

istockphoto.com / 6381380

As you complete the route, you'll find the River of Lakes Heritage Corridor is one of those drives that feels like it gently escorts you from one world into another. You'll start among lakeside views and shady stretches of road, and then the scenery shifts into wide‑open spaces and forests, with that soft coastal breeze you only get as you come closer to the Atlantic.

The Seminole Rest entrance of the Canaveral National Seashore — open sunrise to sunset and free to visit — contains a peaceful walking loop with views of the Mosquito Lagoon, fascinating Timucua shell mounds and the historic Instone House. This last leg of the journey is easy to explore and full of that Old Florida atmosphere that's increasingly rare. In that way, Oak Hill makes a laid‑back and fitting end to a road trip; there's some history, plenty of nature and a whole lot of fresh air.

Note: Should you wish to add a relaxing beach day, you could add nearby New Smyrna Beach or stay in Canaveral National Seashore. The secluded Playalinda Beach, part of the protected shoreline, features recreation like beachcombing and surfing. There are restrooms but no concessionaires or development. (Playalinda also includes a clothing-optional area via parking lot 13, though it's easy avoid.) Unlike Seminole Rest, this beachy attraction requires a fee to enter (around $25) but is well worth it both for recreation and to watch rocket launches from Cape Canaveral.

Other things to do:

Where to stay: