Herengracht is the finest canal of the grachtengordel, the ring or girdle of canals that were built in the early 17th century to defend the city. The name Herengracht translates into English as the “Gentlemen's Canal,” a sign of contemporary male ascendancy. This was the district where the wealthiest Amsterdam merchant families built themselves handsome canal-side mansions notable for their superb ornate gables. The houses were designed to be tall and narrow because of limited space. Take a stroll down Herengracht to appreciate it all. You can start from the canal's northern end at its junction with Brouwersgracht. The Brouwersgracht is the short stretch of canal that links Herengracht to the Singel canal at the Haarlemmer Sluis, one of the 40 or so sluices that are opened each night to flush clean water through the canal system. Haarlemmer Sluis can be reached from Centraal Station by walking northwest along Prins Hendrikkade for about 300 yards and then turning left. Cross the wide sluice bridge. (There is a superb cheese shop on the opposite corner.) Go left, then turn right along Brouwersgracht to reach the tree-shaded bridges at the junction with Herengracht. Walk south, then east for a mile of scenic history to where the Herengracht meets the Amstel river. You can stroll down either side of the great canal and cross over bridges to get the best views of canal-side houses. Visit the Theatermuseum and garden at Herengracht 168, and the exquisite Bartolotti House next door. The latter is a 17th-century Renaissance mansion built by the head of the Bartolotti Bank. Enjoy the Golden Bocht, which translates as “Golden Bay” or “Bend,” between Leidsestraat and Vijzelstraat - note the decorative double-fronted houses along the elegant curve of the canal. The curve is an engaging motif amid Amsterdam's general flatness - in the decorativeness of house gables, the elegant bridges, the sweep of railings, even in the curved handlebars of the wonderful old upright bicycles still favored by Amsterdammers. There are said to be 600,000 bicycles in the city, and it seems that everybody cycles in Amsterdam. Elderly dames and heren (ladies and gentlemen) cruise past to the tinkling of bells like songbirds. Stylishly dressed young people skim along with their backs straight and a wary eye on the tourist's uncertain bid to run across the street in front of them. Connections
Explore the Prinsengracht (Princes' Canal) and the Keizersgracht (Emperors' Canal), as well as the main canals, and don't neglect the connecting waterways. There's the Leidsegracht on the Golden Bend, or the peaceful, leafy Egelantiersgracht near the Anne Frank House (Anne Frankhuis) that takes you into the quiet heart of the Jordaan district. Sidestep between Herengracht and the Singel canal into enchanting streets such as Gasthuismolensteeg or Oude Spiegelstraat, where craft and antiques shops and boutiques rub shoulders with delightful little cafés and restaurants. And try a nighttime walk along the great canals, when many of the finest houses are floodlit and the numerous bridges twinkle with lights. In summer the canals become venues for concerts by the water, rowing regattas, Chinese dragon boat races and various other events. Amsterdam is many things to many people, but the city's fascinating network of canals will always be the enduring motif of this very special city.
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