Mojave National Preserve
The preserve ranges in elevation from less than 1,000 feet to almost 8,000 feet. The diverse landscape encompasses mountains, mesas, volcanic spires, cinder cones and sand dunes. Since summer daytime temperatures typically exceed 100 F at lower elevations, the best months for visiting are October through May. Although yearly rainfall averages between 3 and 10 inches, summer storms sometimes cause flash floods, and occasional winter storms bring rain and even snow to the higher mountains.
Though not always visible, wildlife is abundant. Some of the nearly 300 species of animals living in this area include bighorn sheep, mule deer and mountain lions in the mountains; coyotes, kit foxes, jack rabbits, desert tortoises and antelope ground squirrels inhabit lower elevations.
To survive the desert climate, many plants have small leaves to minimize moisture loss. Cacti store water in their tissues, and mesquites send roots as deep as 100 feet. Common plants include creosote bush, yucca, sage, rabbitbrush and the spindly Joshua tree. Wildflower displays are colorful in April and May if there has been sufficient rainfall during the year.
Mojave National Preserve is rich in archeological and historical features that are protected by law. The many examples of Native American rock art include petroglyphs more than 10,000 years old. More recent are the abandoned mines and desert camps, evidence of the mining operations that once flourished. Cattle ranching, also important during the 1800s, continues at a ranch in the southern part of the preserve.
Developed campgrounds are open all year at Mid Hills and Hole-in-the-Wall; the fee at both is $12 per night. Primitive camping is permitted at other designated sites. Hiking, backpacking and horseback riding are permitted, but horses are not allowed at developed campsites. Equestrian camping facilities are available at Black Canyon Equestrian & Group Campground. Camping or parking within a quarter-mile of a watering spot is not allowed. Bird-watching, photography and star tracking also are popular pastimes.
Several paved roads and hundreds of miles of gravel and dirt roads lace the area. Vehicles must stay on designated roads; there are no off-road vehicle areas. Because gasoline availability is unpredictable, you should fill your tank at Needles, Ludlow or Baker before entering the region and check ahead for weather and road conditions.
Cima Road heads south from I-15 at Valley Wells and passes east of the rounded and weathered granite of Cima Dome, which has one of the densest Joshua tree forests in California. Teutonia Peak Hiking Trail branches off Cima Road; the trail head is 12 miles south of I-15.
Ivanpah-Lanfair Road, which begins 6.5 miles west of Nipton near I-15 and extends south to Goffs near I-40, runs through the New York Mountains, where the presence of water accounts for the existence of 288 species of plants and a variety of wildlife. In spring, the northern stretch of the road through Ivanpah Valley is one of the best places in California to spot desert tortoises. About 27 miles of the road is graded dirt; phone for current conditions. Both abandoned and working mines are scattered throughout the area.
Kelso Depot Visitor Center, on Kelso Cima Road just east of Kelbaker Road, is housed in a restored 1924, two-story Mission Revival-style structure that includes a small theater showing a short orientation film about the Mojave National Preserve; exhibits have the same focus. One exhibit includes a recording of the booming sounds made when sand cascades down the surface of the Kelso Dunes. Two rooms show how the train crew and staff sleeping quarters were furnished, while other rooms display train memorabilia. The Desert Light Gallery houses rotating art exhibits by local artists. The center is open Thurs.-Mon. 10-5 and admission is free.
The preserve is open daily 24 hours. The office is open Mon.-Fri. 8-4:30. For further information contact the Mojave National Preserve, 2701 Barstow Rd., Barstow, CA 92311; phone the Kelso Depot Visitor Center at (760) 252-6108 daily 9-5 or (760) 252-6100.
The adjacent Castle Mountains National Monument, designated as such by President Obama in February 2016, encompasses about 21,000 acres. Visiting requires careful planning as it is remote and requires driving on dirt roads. The Mojave National Preserve can offer information.